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M-22 rebuild

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Old 03-28-2015, 11:44 AM
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fastdavedk
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Default M-22 rebuild

After looking for more than a year for an M-22 that would work for my '67 435 hp coupe I have decided to build my own. I probably checked out 100 transmissions during the interim and many were not M-22's at all or were M-22's that had been rebuilt with non helical gears.
Anyway i am starting with an 010 main case dated January 24, 1967 to use with my March 17, 1967 build date.
I have decided to buy Italian gears and a steel versus aluminum rear bearing retainer but could use some help in deciding what else to buy.
I will be power shifting this transmission from time to time so I want to build a tranny that will withstand high rpm shifts.
Old 03-28-2015, 03:19 PM
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vettebuyer6369
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Moving thread to General Discussion
Old 03-28-2015, 03:55 PM
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65 fi
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Isn't the only difference in the case the lower drain plug? If so, it seems like an easy thing to add.
Old 03-28-2015, 04:07 PM
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vetrod62
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Call Autogear, they are the ones who had the Italian Masiero gear sets made. They can tell you every thing you need to know about your transmission and can supply the parts. 1-800-634-3001
Old 03-28-2015, 08:56 PM
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63split63
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Default 5speeds.com

You may want to contact 5speeds.com .
You will be talking right to the main man , not a salesman .

I have used him twice for advice and parts and highly recommend him.

Bill
Old 03-28-2015, 10:21 PM
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DZAUTO
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Originally Posted by 65 fi
Isn't the only difference in the case the lower drain plug? If so, it seems like an easy thing to add.
Yes.















Install a magnetic drain plug.



Remove the magnetic donut in the bottom of the case.


Done, toooooooooooooooo easy.
Old 03-29-2015, 10:36 AM
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fastdavedk
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Originally Posted by 63split63
You may want to contact 5speeds.com .
You will be talking right to the main man , not a salesman .

I have used him twice for advice and parts and highly recommend him.

Bill
I will contact both vendors for their input. Thank you for your replies.
As to ways to drill out cases to create m-22 look alikes many things can be faked but my knowing that this 010 case that I am using was an m-22 when built makes a difference to me.
Old 03-29-2015, 02:15 PM
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69z28&ss396
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Originally Posted by fastdavedk
I will contact both vendors for their input. Thank you for your replies.
As to ways to drill out cases to create m-22 look alikes many things can be faked but my knowing that this 010 case that I am using was an m-22 when built makes a difference to me.
How do you know it wasn't drilled prior to you acquiring it??

There were no designation's until 1969..

Use torque lock sliders! Any tranny place you call, will know what they are.

I use them in all my Muncie rebuilds.
My 69 Z28, with an M22 has a roller fist gear also. I am not easy on it by any means and it has had its share of 7800 rpm powershifts!

Good luck.
Old 03-30-2015, 12:49 PM
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fastdavedk
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Originally Posted by 69z28&ss396
How do you know it wasn't drilled prior to you acquiring it??

There were no designation's until 1969..

Use torque lock sliders! Any tranny place you call, will know what they are.

I use them in all my Muncie rebuilds.
My 69 Z28, with an M22 has a roller fist gear also. I am not easy on it by any means and it has had its share of 7800 rpm powershifts!

Good luck.
The reason I know it is a real M-22 is only because the tranny came out of a '67 big block Chevelle that I am acquainted with history-wise.
Unfortunately, the internals were wasted but the main case is crack free and has no welded ears.
Thank you for your input and 7800 is a lot of rpm even for a 302!
Old 03-30-2015, 12:51 PM
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fastdavedk
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Originally Posted by fastdavedk
The reason I know it is a real M-22 is only because the tranny came out of a '67 big block Chevelle that I am acquainted with history-wise.
Unfortunately, the internals were wasted but the main case is crack free and has no welded ears.
Thank you for your input and 7800 is a lot of rpm even for a 302!
Oh and by the way I will be Vegas in a couple of weeks and I would like to be onboard for some high rpm shifting of a Z-28!
Old 03-30-2015, 01:11 PM
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Well Im a terrible salesman; but Im a good product rep LOL. If you want to talk to the guy who designs our stuff; thats George. Send an email or call the number posted above.

The "Supercase" is much stronger than a factory case. It is 356-T6 aircraft-grade aluminum; cast in PA and machined in-house here in Syracuse NY. The ears are reinforced, the front wall is .150" thicker to allow for more support and a larger industry-standard 307-series ball bearing; instead of the narrow, hard to find Muncie-only ball bearing.

If you're using a high quality gearset, you don't need Torque Locks in our opinion. They shift a bit slower because you have to overcome the back taper on the splines. Tighter fitting synchros are the answer. I'd also recommend a set of the forged bronze synchro rings, not the cheap cast ones. Id also recommend a set of the USA made steel forks, not the cheap cast iron ones. If you have some extra cash, either refurbishing your sidecover, or going to a new aftermarket one is money very well spent.

At your performance level, perhaps going to a 26 spline input for the gearset is advisable. The gearset would cost about the same, but you have a much larger safety margin. The Ductile Iron midplate for that kind of RPM would be required. Theres also a spacer plate to put the larger bearing in a factory case. More load bearing capacity, cheaper, easier to find bearing. Lastly there are caged needle bearings for the cluster gear instead of loose pins.
5speeds.com is our highest volume distributor. Other large ones would be Jodys Transmission and Midwest Muncies. But there might be a smaller one closer to you. I can check if you like.
Old 03-30-2015, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DZAUTO
Yes.















Install a magnetic drain plug.



Remove the magnetic donut in the bottom of the case.


Done, toooooooooooooooo easy.
Did you use a DATE CODED threading device ? Such a simple solution gets wrapped up in numbers, letters and horse power designations. It's a transmission component rebuild. They were made to be serviced and abused frequently.
Old 03-30-2015, 06:53 PM
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69z28&ss396
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Originally Posted by fastdavedk
Oh and by the way I will be Vegas in a couple of weeks and I would like to be onboard for some high rpm shifting of a Z-28!
What days will you be here??
Old 04-08-2015, 06:11 PM
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fastdavedk
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Originally Posted by 69z28&ss396
what days will you be here??
april 10th through the 12th.
Old 08-05-2015, 10:24 AM
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grumpy10956
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hi , were the main cases different between m22 and m21 or mn20 cases ?? other than the drain plug ??


Originally Posted by fastdavedk
april 10th through the 12th.

Last edited by grumpy10956; 08-05-2015 at 06:48 PM.
Old 08-05-2015, 10:54 AM
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Thanks for that post, Autogear. That's a bunch of really good information to have, all in a nutshell. Guy over on the Pontiac GTO forum is asking questions.....I'll mention you guys.
Old 08-05-2015, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by grumpy10956
hi , where the main cases different between m22 and m21 or mn20 cases ?? other than the drain plug ??
A Muncie case is a Muncie case is a Muncie case, no matter what gear guts are inside of it. Same with the tail housing, side cover and mid plate.

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Old 08-05-2015, 09:25 PM
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Pop Chevy
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The diff is the size of cluster shaft. Early ones were 7/8" later were 1"
Pops
Old 08-06-2015, 12:40 AM
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good evening , when did they change to the 1 inch cluster shaft, I have one of these early Muncie close ratio, nice lil gear box, grumpy robbt

Originally Posted by Pop Chevy
The diff is the size of cluster shaft. Early ones were 7/8" later were 1"
Pops
Old 08-07-2015, 12:11 AM
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Default M22 diff.

I had my M21 rebuilt with M22 internals and they had to ream out the cluster gear hole in the case for the 1" cluster gear.


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