MaineDoc

So the 10 feet of snow is showing some signs of leaving making it time to prepare the 66 for driving again. I noticed that the camber is off, basically with the bottom of the tire out more than the top. I suspect that I can do this without fancy alignment tools. I have read the chassis manual which tells me to turn the adjustment bolt and then to torque it to specs. What specs? The camber says 7/8 degree with plus/minus 1/4. How do I achieve this with basic garage tools? I looked for something on You Tube but I found only C5 stuff with performance kits. Any help is appreciated.

jim lockwood

You could conceivably set camber with a garden variety angle finder attached in some creative way to the wheel or hub. Changing camber also affects toe-in so you'll need to adjust this also once you have camber where you want it.

Jim

Mike67nv

Setting rear camber and toe can be done fairly accurately at home. There are a lot of posts/articles/papers on how to do it, if you want to do some research. Below is a Tech Paper written by Lars that might help:

Rear suspension component torque values can be found in the Chassis Service Manual. The camber cam bolt torque is 65 ft. lbs.

I bought a fairly inexpensive tool – SPC FasTrax – from Summit that does a pretty good job setting camber and even toe. If you’re going to be changing the rear toe, it is important to keep it equal, 1/32” per side, split equally across the thrust centerline.

MaineDoc

Sounds like I might be just as well off to take it to the dealer who takes care of my 2014 and have them do it. With the limited amount of use the 66 gets I can't imagine that this is going to be a regular requirement.

DansYellow66

Setting camber of the rear suspension is one of the easiest adjustments and could be done with the car on a level piece of cncrete, with a level, ruler and little bit of geometry - but a camber/caster gage as depicted above is a lot better. Problem is, if the camber is out, what about the toe and the thrust angle and then there is the front suspension. Best to tool-up to do it right yourself or take it to a reputable alignment shop and let them do it. If you are running radial tires there are alternate alignment specs that are preferable to the GM manual specs.

Frankie the Fink

You can prob get close with the DIY jigs/tools but why not just find an old school shop and pay them $65 to do a complete front/rear alignment. Preferably one with older equipment (and operators!).

If the 22 year old tech at your dealer doesn't find the '63 specs in their little computer database on their megabucks alignment machine they'll be winging it....and might not even know how to fudge for radial tires..