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Good luck with the car. Do your best to sort out the wiring issues. Hate to see you collect on your comprehensive fire insurance. Keep us posted. Jerry
Very cool car, I remember it for sale! I can't imagine the tail lamps getting enough current to melt the lenses, one would think a fuse would go way way before then. What kind of readings were you getting on the alternator was running? Keep us posted as you sort it out.
I don't know that much of anything beats silver/red...
Very cool car, I remember it for sale! I can't imagine the tail lamps getting enough current to melt the lenses, one would think a fuse would go way way before then. What kind of readings were you getting on the alternator was running? Keep us posted as you sort it out.
I don't know that much of anything beats silver/red...
I spoke with my fabricator today and he thinks the tune must be off causing it to run too lean or the timing retarded which would make the headers heat up too much causing the stainless to lose it's corrosion resistance. Regardless, at this point, they still need to be jet-hot coated.
My thoughts were the same on the taillamp lenses. Now that I know where the fuse box is located and that it is a modern unit, i think the probability of the lamps getting hot enough to melt the plastic and not blowing a fuse or the bulbs blowing is low. It must be related to external heat from the hot summer sun reflecting off the bumpers to the taillamps and then down on the top of the plastic lenses, or at least that is my theory. They are only melted on the tops with concentration at the center.
Last edited by 65silververt; 04-08-2015 at 06:40 PM.
Looking forward to this build. I recently decided I want a restomod so I look forward to learning more.
I cannot believe those headers are 3XX stainless. 300 series will discolor but it will not rust like that. Besides, why would the flange look pristine while the tubes look so rough?
Glad you are interested in watching!
Maybe stainless works used 409?
Could be. 400 series doesn't have much corrosion resistance.
Looking at the pics on the RS website this morning, that was a really decent car to begin with. Pristine birdcage, nice solid frame, and appears to have original GM front clip. Also has its original VIN and trim tags. Interesting that someone would choose it as a restomod candidate. I think the engineering and fab work on the RS chassis is exceptional. The finished product here should be mind-blowing.
I'd love to see it done in Goodwood Green with a white stinger and black/white interior.
I would say any car without it's original motor is a good candidate.
It looks like it has two new fenders and one new rear quarter. Of all the cars I have purchased over the years, I have only ever found two with all of their original panels, but even those has minor repairs due to small flares and one with a small fender bender repair the size of a baseball. It's damn near impossible to find a perfect body these days unless you build one yourself.
Chris you continue to amaze me at the level of detail you go into with these cars. When someone receives one of your builds they are most certainly getting qualiy and that is something for you to be proud of. Things are finally loosening up here in FL. Let me know when that 67 is ready for a test drive. I volunteer for "shotgun".
04-08-2015, 10:19 AM
