Question about dealer replacement engines
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Question about dealer replacement engines
Is there a way, externally, to determine what the horse power rating of a dealer replacement engine from the 60's was? I just bought the '63 roadster that ImaRoadDog listed on the for sale board and it has what appears to be a period replacement engine but I couldn't find any engine codes on it. He did a very nice job on a car that had been rode hard, put away wet then beaten with an ugly stick, but still a bit of a work in progress and I need to decide what to do about the engine.
#3
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I would think that the casting number on the block would help in some way. Post it for us. Dennis
#4
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Depends if it was a short or long block
#5
Is there a way, externally, to determine what the horse power rating of a dealer replacement engine from the 60's was? I just bought the '63 roadster that ImaRoadDog listed on the for sale board and it has what appears to be a period replacement engine but I couldn't find any engine codes on it. He did a very nice job on a car that had been rode hard, put away wet then beaten with an ugly stick, but still a bit of a work in progress and I need to decide what to do about the engine.
#7
Le Mans Master
GM used to sell engines over the counter before the CE stamped blocks/engines arrived, were those earlier 'replacement' engines stamped on that front pad with some sort of identifier?
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Mike T - Prescott AZ
#8
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I will post photos when the car arrives next week. There is no history regarding the engine. But it looked like there was no stamp pad, at least on the front right where I would have expected it. I could have overlooked it. It also has a half length "helper/stiffener " spring clamped to each side of the rear spring that I have never seen before.
#9
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And to the OP. You can find some external clues as to what is in the engine but the only way to really know is take it apart.
#11
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If your paperwork shows a part number for the replacement 327 short block, someone may be able to decode the innards (pistons, cam); if not, tearing it down is the only way to know for sure.
#12
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The OP could use a bore scope to see the piston tops. That may clear up some of the mystery. Dennis
#14
Team Owner
Sounds like the pivotal question you are asking is, "...what to do about the engine?"
If its a period-correct, factory replacement why would you swap it out ? Unless the horsepower is not to your liking.
I would think a dyno run would give you an idea what you should do ?!?!?
(lonzoo out-typed me!)
If its a period-correct, factory replacement why would you swap it out ? Unless the horsepower is not to your liking.
I would think a dyno run would give you an idea what you should do ?!?!?
(lonzoo out-typed me!)
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
Sounds like the pivotal question you are asking is, "...what to do about the engine?"
If its a period-correct, factory replacement why would you swap it out ? Unless the horsepower is not to your liking.
I would think a dyno run would give you an idea what you should do ?!?!?
(lonzoo out-typed me!)
If its a period-correct, factory replacement why would you swap it out ? Unless the horsepower is not to your liking.
I would think a dyno run would give you an idea what you should do ?!?!?
(lonzoo out-typed me!)
block casting is 3782870 and the intake is 8799849/GM2. The stamp pad is blank. So, a period appropriate replacement engine.
I have been a little spoiled by my 65 350 HP so I am looking to upgrade the current motor a bit. There is a '63 dated Carter AFB on it. So I can have that rebuilt. I am thinking that an Edelbrock performer aluminum intake manifold and Summit Racing aluminum heads (they are located here in Sparks) should be sufficient for my needs.
Also I never thought power steering was necessary, but this one has had Steeroids added and I am now officially spoiled, except for the standard brakes which I am getting used to.
It rode like a rock so I removed the helper springs and ride has been restored to moderately comfortable with a bit more body roll in the turns. All told I am very happy with it so far.
Dyno run is in the near future.
#16
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My 67 BB has a CE stamped block in it and the casting # was late 67 or early 68. I checked the date code on the block and it was a early 68. Also the heads had a early 68 date code.
Dom
Dom
Well, car has been delivered and on further examination the
block casting is 3782870 and the intake is 8799849/GM2. The stamp pad is blank. So, a period appropriate replacement engine.
I have been a little spoiled by my 65 350 HP so I am looking to upgrade the current motor a bit. There is a '63 dated Carter AFB on it. So I can have that rebuilt. I am thinking that an Edelbrock performer aluminum intake manifold and Summit Racing aluminum heads (they are located here in Sparks) should be sufficient for my needs.
Also I never thought power steering was necessary, but this one has had Steeroids added and I am now officially spoiled, except for the standard brakes which I am getting used to.
It rode like a rock so I removed the helper springs and ride has been restored to moderately comfortable with a bit more body roll in the turns. All told I am very happy with it so far.
Dyno run is in the near future.
block casting is 3782870 and the intake is 8799849/GM2. The stamp pad is blank. So, a period appropriate replacement engine.
I have been a little spoiled by my 65 350 HP so I am looking to upgrade the current motor a bit. There is a '63 dated Carter AFB on it. So I can have that rebuilt. I am thinking that an Edelbrock performer aluminum intake manifold and Summit Racing aluminum heads (they are located here in Sparks) should be sufficient for my needs.
Also I never thought power steering was necessary, but this one has had Steeroids added and I am now officially spoiled, except for the standard brakes which I am getting used to.
It rode like a rock so I removed the helper springs and ride has been restored to moderately comfortable with a bit more body roll in the turns. All told I am very happy with it so far.
Dyno run is in the near future.
#17
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Well, car has been delivered and on further examination the
block casting is 3782870 and the intake is 8799849/GM2. The stamp pad is blank. So, a period appropriate replacement engine.
I have been a little spoiled by my 65 350 HP so I am looking to upgrade the current motor a bit. There is a '63 dated Carter AFB on it. So I can have that rebuilt. I am thinking that an Edelbrock performer aluminum intake manifold and Summit Racing aluminum heads (they are located here in Sparks) should be sufficient for my needs.
Also I never thought power steering was necessary, but this one has had Steeroids added and I am now officially spoiled, except for the standard brakes which I am getting used to.
It rode like a rock so I removed the helper springs and ride has been restored to moderately comfortable with a bit more body roll in the turns. All told I am very happy with it so far.
Dyno run is in the near future.
block casting is 3782870 and the intake is 8799849/GM2. The stamp pad is blank. So, a period appropriate replacement engine.
I have been a little spoiled by my 65 350 HP so I am looking to upgrade the current motor a bit. There is a '63 dated Carter AFB on it. So I can have that rebuilt. I am thinking that an Edelbrock performer aluminum intake manifold and Summit Racing aluminum heads (they are located here in Sparks) should be sufficient for my needs.
Also I never thought power steering was necessary, but this one has had Steeroids added and I am now officially spoiled, except for the standard brakes which I am getting used to.
It rode like a rock so I removed the helper springs and ride has been restored to moderately comfortable with a bit more body roll in the turns. All told I am very happy with it so far.
Dyno run is in the near future.
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
#19
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Carter carb is marked A3. Everything seems to indicate this is a 1963 short block replacement.
Stamp Pad
Block Casting Number
Stamp Pad
Block Casting Number