How to: C2 body removal
#21
Team Owner
Just think of the $$$$ you saved....now, off to work tomorrow you go...
#24
Burning Brakes
I have an engine hoist so that is an option but my plan is to use eye bolts that I installed in my ceiling joists above the car. Currently I have my replacement frame suspended on these. With 4 support points pulling I think it will lift off easy enough and it can stay suspended Up and out of the way till I need it again.
#25
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know, but if you are going to leave the body suspended it needs to be supported by more than the birdcage area. Left long enough, the front and rear glass can droop a little and cause alignment problems when trying to set it back on the frame.
#26
Le Mans Master
I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know, but if you are going to leave the body suspended it needs to be supported by more than the birdcage area. Left long enough, the front and rear glass can droop a little and cause alignment problems when trying to set it back on the frame.
#28
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ok so I made a list, I checked it twice and bought some Liquid Wrench. Sprayed the threads of six bolts. I got the 4 outer bolts free easy enough. But how do I get to the 2 behind the access panel in the rear wheel well, after I have removed the panels? Talk about a b!%@h and a half. Any ideas?
#29
Race Director
You have a coupe so you don't need to worry about sagging of the birdcage. But - the front nose is pretty flexible because behind the front wheel housings and ahead of the firewall, basically the entire front end cross-section is the single, exterior fiberglass panel and it will flex quite a bit. It's a good idea to have some support on you body dolly to pick up the weight of the nose just behind the grill area and support it. The rear end is not a problem as it's pretty stiff.
On the body bolts right behind the seats and ahead of the rear wheel well, remove the access panels in the front of the wheel well and put a socket and ratchet or break-over bar on the bolt head inside. If you got the other four out without breaking them you may be lucky and they will back out OK. If not, just snap the head off if the capture nut will hold tight. But, it probably won't and then you have to work at it. Some approaches are to use a dremel tool with small cutting discs and basically cut the bolt head off from the top, in segments to where the head is gone. Or some have used a cut off saw with a metal blade to cut the bolt head off. Must be pretty tough to do as the frame pocket isn't deep enough for much stroke on the saw. What ever you do you will have to work through that access panel hole.
Good luck
On the body bolts right behind the seats and ahead of the rear wheel well, remove the access panels in the front of the wheel well and put a socket and ratchet or break-over bar on the bolt head inside. If you got the other four out without breaking them you may be lucky and they will back out OK. If not, just snap the head off if the capture nut will hold tight. But, it probably won't and then you have to work at it. Some approaches are to use a dremel tool with small cutting discs and basically cut the bolt head off from the top, in segments to where the head is gone. Or some have used a cut off saw with a metal blade to cut the bolt head off. Must be pretty tough to do as the frame pocket isn't deep enough for much stroke on the saw. What ever you do you will have to work through that access panel hole.
Good luck
#31
Race Director
That particular mount is more difficult to get some penetrationg oil on the nut assembly on the frame mount. Basically you have to spray up between the frame and the birdcage sill channel and try to soak. Spraying from inside the pocket will probably not reach it unless the rubber cushions have crumbled and cracked and let some soak dow to it.
#32
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yeah I soaked it pretty good yesterday. I was able to see the threads a little bit from between the lower lip of the body and the frame. I'll soak it again before I go to breakfast and try to get them loose after.
Last edited by R. Seghi; 05-20-2015 at 09:50 AM.
#34
Race Director
#36
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
What do you mean by Seat Belt Cables?
#37
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Took off rear bumper. Rear valance, trashed from previous owner. Antenna ground cable. It seems all I have left is the set belts, seats, single reservoir brake line and steering column. The car came to me with one door unbolted. Should I remove the other door? I can't see that being a problem.
#38
Race Director
There should be short cables at the 4 seat belt anchor locations that anchor the seat belt nut plates on the body, to the frame. The out board ones are near the triangular reinforcements at the rear of the main frame rails. The center anchors are connected by a single cable that loops through a plate with a hook on the center cross member.
#40
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
This car is coming apart so easily so far. Like it wants to. I seriously have not had a car cooperate this much.
I was introduced to the Bumper to the Forehead club today while removing the right rear bumper. As I was looking up at the bumper working, the outside end nut came off and the bumper swung down and popped me in the forehead. No bumps, had a hat on. Kinda stupid though. SIDENOTE: GRAVITY IS REAL. Bill Nye The Science Guy wasn't lieing.
Liquid Wrench works wonders though.
I was introduced to the Bumper to the Forehead club today while removing the right rear bumper. As I was looking up at the bumper working, the outside end nut came off and the bumper swung down and popped me in the forehead. No bumps, had a hat on. Kinda stupid though. SIDENOTE: GRAVITY IS REAL. Bill Nye The Science Guy wasn't lieing.
Liquid Wrench works wonders though.
Last edited by R. Seghi; 05-30-2015 at 10:22 PM.