uugh 1 more leaf question, eaton 9spring vs 6+3 spring?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
uugh 1 more leaf question, eaton 9spring vs 6+3 spring?
every time I get some answers they raise more questions!! ha!
Eaton fer sure, but does anyone have exp with their progressive 140lb to 196 progressive rear leaf spring??? its 6 bowed leafs + 3 flat
Eaton fer sure, but does anyone have exp with their progressive 140lb to 196 progressive rear leaf spring??? its 6 bowed leafs + 3 flat
#2
Racer
Thread Starter
I want to maintain standar ride height
I am looking to maintain standard ride height, and a softer ride over the chooppy stuff
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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ALL '64-'67 Corvettes used the same standard 9-leaf rear spring (6+3); I have the Eaton version on my '67, and it works just fine.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
there are 2 different versions
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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2015 C2 of Year Finalist
Seeing how the 6+3 is 100% correct for 64-67 cars I can almost bet that's what he's got. You can change the ride height in the back +\- via the end bolts. It's spelled out in the service manual and AIM. You do have one of those books right?
#6
Burning Brakes
I think you are making this too difficult on yourself. I'd suggest putting standard shocks on first, then if you still wish to change springs, use the above described spring from Eaton.
#7
Melting Slicks
I ordered mine unpainted and painted it leaf spring gray (paint from LIC), otherwise it will come painted black. A NCRS member loaned me his swage tooling for the new cushion retainer cups (Corvette Restorer Fall 2009), which also came out great.
This is what it looked like as shipped and painted.
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
yes ok!! problem solved
The Eaton Detroit spring on my ’67 is their number ML357 stock ride height. It’s a 6/3 – 9 leaf spring, made in the USA. It’s the spring you refer to with the 140/196 progressive rate. The ride is just as I remember my first ’67, 48 years ago. The fit was perfect and after putting a few miles on it, the ride height is to spec (AIM UPC 4, sheet B5).
I ordered mine unpainted and painted it leaf spring gray (paint from LIC), otherwise it will come painted black. A NCRS member loaned me his swage tooling for the new cushion retainer cups (Corvette Restorer Fall 2009), which also came out great.
This is what it looked like as shipped and painted.
I ordered mine unpainted and painted it leaf spring gray (paint from LIC), otherwise it will come painted black. A NCRS member loaned me his swage tooling for the new cushion retainer cups (Corvette Restorer Fall 2009), which also came out great.
This is what it looked like as shipped and painted.
if I seem stupid, its because I ask these questions while I'm working, so i'm one distracted person at both tasks
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
oops
eaton spring + 4 new rubber bushings, 2 new front springs + 4 new shocks?
do I need some special mounting parts for the eaton? or can I use whats on there now with new cushions? the bolts and hardware still look good
#12
Melting Slicks
#13
Race Director
Someone has probably mentioned it in responses to one of your threads but - be sure and wait to tighten the 4 spring clamp plate bolts to the differential cover until you have lowered the car's weight on to the wheels and spring. There have apparently been some cases where the case ears have snapped off with the suspension weight hanging free and the 4 bolts were torqued.
And be careful removing the old spring and installing the new one - they can bite back. One approach is to put a clamp or set of vise grips about 4 or 5 inches from the spring cushion retainer and use that to hold a jack in place on the spring so it can't ride up the spring leaf and snap loose. On a newly painted spring you can put some pieces of rubber innertube under the clamp ends to protect it. Just need to be sure the jack has something to keep it from slipping as you jack the spring up to detach and reattach the spring end bolts.
And be careful removing the old spring and installing the new one - they can bite back. One approach is to put a clamp or set of vise grips about 4 or 5 inches from the spring cushion retainer and use that to hold a jack in place on the spring so it can't ride up the spring leaf and snap loose. On a newly painted spring you can put some pieces of rubber innertube under the clamp ends to protect it. Just need to be sure the jack has something to keep it from slipping as you jack the spring up to detach and reattach the spring end bolts.
Last edited by DansYellow66; 04-17-2015 at 02:17 PM.
#14
Melting Slicks
Someone has probably mentioned it in responses to one of your threads but - be sure and wait to tighten the 4 spring clamp plate bolts to the differential cover until you have lowered the car's weight on to the wheels and spring. There have apparently been some cases where the case ears have snapped off with the suspension weight hanging free and the 4 bolts were torqued.
And be careful removing the old spring and installing the new one - they can bite back. One approach is to put a clamp or set of vise grips about 4 or 5 inches from the spring cushion retainer and use that to hold a jack in place on the spring so it can't ride up the spring leaf and snap loose. On a newly painted spring you can put some pieces of rubber innertube under the clamp ends to protect it. Just need to be sure the jack has something to keep it from slipping as you jack the spring up to detach and reattach the spring end bolts.
And be careful removing the old spring and installing the new one - they can bite back. One approach is to put a clamp or set of vise grips about 4 or 5 inches from the spring cushion retainer and use that to hold a jack in place on the spring so it can't ride up the spring leaf and snap loose. On a newly painted spring you can put some pieces of rubber innertube under the clamp ends to protect it. Just need to be sure the jack has something to keep it from slipping as you jack the spring up to detach and reattach the spring end bolts.
Gary
#15
Melting Slicks
I had to use 7 different sockets with my press to do it yesterday.
The swage tooling would have cut the time in half.
#16
Race Director
#17
Melting Slicks
#18
Melting Slicks
Bill - The NCRS member (Gary) lives in Sunnyvale. His tooling is shown in the above pic - it's essentially a three step process to swage the cup flange all the way over. It was especially handy doing the cups in my trailing arms. If you don't have the Fall 2009 Restorer, I can send you his contact info.
I can see where the tool would be required for the T-arms.
Bill