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uugh 1 more leaf question, eaton 9spring vs 6+3 spring?

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Old 04-16-2015, 02:55 PM
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old68
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Default uugh 1 more leaf question, eaton 9spring vs 6+3 spring?

every time I get some answers they raise more questions!! ha!

Eaton fer sure, but does anyone have exp with their progressive 140lb to 196 progressive rear leaf spring??? its 6 bowed leafs + 3 flat
Old 04-16-2015, 03:57 PM
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old68
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Default I want to maintain standar ride height

Originally Posted by old68
every time I get some answers they raise more questions!! ha!

Eaton fer sure, but does anyone have exp with their progressive 140lb to 196 progressive rear leaf spring??? its 6 bowed leafs + 3 flat
I am looking to maintain standard ride height, and a softer ride over the chooppy stuff
Old 04-16-2015, 04:26 PM
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JohnZ
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Originally Posted by old68
every time I get some answers they raise more questions!! ha!

Eaton fer sure, but does anyone have exp with their progressive 140lb to 196 progressive rear leaf spring??? its 6 bowed leafs + 3 flat
ALL '64-'67 Corvettes used the same standard 9-leaf rear spring (6+3); I have the Eaton version on my '67, and it works just fine.
Old 04-16-2015, 04:53 PM
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Default there are 2 different versions

Originally Posted by JohnZ
ALL '64-'67 Corvettes used the same standard 9-leaf rear spring (6+3); I have the Eaton version on my '67, and it works just fine.
the 9 leaf standard 190lb are all bowed,

the 6+3 are 6 bowed + 3 flat,

which did you get?? did your ride height change at all??
Old 04-16-2015, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by old68
the 9 leaf standard 190lb are all bowed,

the 6+3 are 6 bowed + 3 flat,

which did you get?? did your ride height change at all??
Seeing how the 6+3 is 100% correct for 64-67 cars I can almost bet that's what he's got. You can change the ride height in the back +\- via the end bolts. It's spelled out in the service manual and AIM. You do have one of those books right?
Old 04-16-2015, 05:02 PM
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A-Snake
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Originally Posted by old68
the 9 leaf standard 190lb are all bowed,

the 6+3 are 6 bowed + 3 flat,

which did you get?? did your ride height change at all??
As John said, ALL 64 to 67 Corvettes used the 9 leaf (6 bowed and three flat), 63 used 9 bowed.

I think you are making this too difficult on yourself. I'd suggest putting standard shocks on first, then if you still wish to change springs, use the above described spring from Eaton.
Old 04-16-2015, 05:59 PM
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Mike67nv
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Originally Posted by old68
every time I get some answers they raise more questions!! ha!

Eaton fer sure, but does anyone have exp with their progressive 140lb to 196 progressive rear leaf spring??? its 6 bowed leafs + 3 flat
The Eaton Detroit spring on my ’67 is their number ML357 stock ride height. It’s a 6/3 – 9 leaf spring, made in the USA. It’s the spring you refer to with the 140/196 progressive rate. The ride is just as I remember my first ’67, 48 years ago. The fit was perfect and after putting a few miles on it, the ride height is to spec (AIM UPC 4, sheet B5).

I ordered mine unpainted and painted it leaf spring gray (paint from LIC), otherwise it will come painted black. A NCRS member loaned me his swage tooling for the new cushion retainer cups (Corvette Restorer Fall 2009), which also came out great.

This is what it looked like as shipped and painted.






Old 04-16-2015, 06:25 PM
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Default yes ok!! problem solved

Originally Posted by Mike67nv
The Eaton Detroit spring on my ’67 is their number ML357 stock ride height. It’s a 6/3 – 9 leaf spring, made in the USA. It’s the spring you refer to with the 140/196 progressive rate. The ride is just as I remember my first ’67, 48 years ago. The fit was perfect and after putting a few miles on it, the ride height is to spec (AIM UPC 4, sheet B5).

I ordered mine unpainted and painted it leaf spring gray (paint from LIC), otherwise it will come painted black. A NCRS member loaned me his swage tooling for the new cushion retainer cups (Corvette Restorer Fall 2009), which also came out great.

This is what it looked like as shipped and painted.






great!! problem solved,, thanks a bunch !!

if I seem stupid, its because I ask these questions while I'm working, so i'm one distracted person at both tasks
Old 04-16-2015, 07:13 PM
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What shocks did you decide to get?
Old 04-17-2015, 12:39 PM
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Default I went soft

Originally Posted by 65 vette dude
What shocks did you decide to get?
AC delco gas 530-315 + matching front, + doing stock 298# front spring, we'll see how it comes out

soft springs with a stiff shock seems to defeat the purpose
Old 04-17-2015, 12:43 PM
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Default oops

Originally Posted by old68
great!! problem solved,, thanks a bunch !!

if I seem stupid, its because I ask these questions while I'm working, so i'm one distracted person at both tasks
am I missing some parts??
eaton spring + 4 new rubber bushings, 2 new front springs + 4 new shocks?

do I need some special mounting parts for the eaton? or can I use whats on there now with new cushions? the bolts and hardware still look good
Old 04-17-2015, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by old68
am I missing some parts??
eaton spring + 4 new rubber bushings, 2 new front springs + 4 new shocks?

do I need some special mounting parts for the eaton? or can I use whats on there now with new cushions? the bolts and hardware still look good
You may not need any new or additional parts, other than the cushions, depending on the condition of your existing parts. You may need new cushion retainer cups for the spring end depending on their condition and how well they were swaged onto the spring. I chose to replace my hardware (from LIC) because Bubba had been there, but that’s your call.





Old 04-17-2015, 02:12 PM
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Someone has probably mentioned it in responses to one of your threads but - be sure and wait to tighten the 4 spring clamp plate bolts to the differential cover until you have lowered the car's weight on to the wheels and spring. There have apparently been some cases where the case ears have snapped off with the suspension weight hanging free and the 4 bolts were torqued.

And be careful removing the old spring and installing the new one - they can bite back. One approach is to put a clamp or set of vise grips about 4 or 5 inches from the spring cushion retainer and use that to hold a jack in place on the spring so it can't ride up the spring leaf and snap loose. On a newly painted spring you can put some pieces of rubber innertube under the clamp ends to protect it. Just need to be sure the jack has something to keep it from slipping as you jack the spring up to detach and reattach the spring end bolts.

Last edited by DansYellow66; 04-17-2015 at 02:17 PM.
Old 04-17-2015, 02:39 PM
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Gary's '66
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Originally Posted by DansYellow66
Someone has probably mentioned it in responses to one of your threads but - be sure and wait to tighten the 4 spring clamp plate bolts to the differential cover until you have lowered the car's weight on to the wheels and spring. There have apparently been some cases where the case ears have snapped off with the suspension weight hanging free and the 4 bolts were torqued.

And be careful removing the old spring and installing the new one - they can bite back. One approach is to put a clamp or set of vise grips about 4 or 5 inches from the spring cushion retainer and use that to hold a jack in place on the spring so it can't ride up the spring leaf and snap loose. On a newly painted spring you can put some pieces of rubber innertube under the clamp ends to protect it. Just need to be sure the jack has something to keep it from slipping as you jack the spring up to detach and reattach the spring end bolts.
Good point on all accounts Dan!

Gary
Old 04-17-2015, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike67nv
I ordered mine unpainted and painted it leaf spring gray (paint from LIC), otherwise it will come painted black. A NCRS member loaned me his swage tooling for the new cushion retainer cups (Corvette Restorer Fall 2009), which also came out great.
So, was that NCRS member here in town?
I had to use 7 different sockets with my press to do it yesterday.

The swage tooling would have cut the time in half.
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Old 04-17-2015, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill32
So, was that NCRS member here in town?
I had to use 7 different sockets with my press to do it yesterday.

The swage tooling would have cut the time in half.
Close………California. You need to plan ahead a bit better.

Larry
Old 04-17-2015, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill32
So, was that NCRS member here in town?
I had to use 7 different sockets with my press to do it yesterday.

The swage tooling would have cut the time in half.
Bill - The NCRS member (Gary) lives in Sunnyvale. His tooling is shown in the above pic - it's essentially a three step process to swage the cup flange all the way over. It was especially handy doing the cups in my trailing arms. If you don't have the Fall 2009 Restorer, I can send you his contact info.

Old 04-18-2015, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike67nv
Bill - The NCRS member (Gary) lives in Sunnyvale. His tooling is shown in the above pic - it's essentially a three step process to swage the cup flange all the way over. It was especially handy doing the cups in my trailing arms. If you don't have the Fall 2009 Restorer, I can send you his contact info.
Hey, thanks Mike. The sockets worked on the springs and the cups in my T-arms are in very good condition (although I painted them).

I can see where the tool would be required for the T-arms.
Bill

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