How to fabricate a teakwood wheel
#41
Safety Car
A work of art. .. You sir, are a true craftsman!
It would be nice to have a thicker steering wheel. Fingers get kind of stiff on long drives with the stock wheel.
I'd like to take a crack building a new steering wheel as you've done. Thanks for providing the great tutorial!
John
It would be nice to have a thicker steering wheel. Fingers get kind of stiff on long drives with the stock wheel.
I'd like to take a crack building a new steering wheel as you've done. Thanks for providing the great tutorial!
John
#42
Administrator
Member Since: Jul 2000
Location: About 1100 miles from where I call home. Blue lives matter.
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#43
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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2015 C2 of Year Finalist
#44
Le Mans Master
Question on Teak
Question: In your photos showing the teak pieces laid out for glue up, the small pieces of teak placed between the joints appear to be the same color of wood as the larger pieces. But, in the final photos of the completed wheel, the smaller inserts between the larger rim pieces stand out and appear darker than the others (which is desirable, I would think).
I'm assuming they were glued up as shown in the first of your photos, why do they appear darker in the completed wheel?
(Please forgive my ignorance . . . . . . )
I'm assuming they were glued up as shown in the first of your photos, why do they appear darker in the completed wheel?
(Please forgive my ignorance . . . . . . )
#45
Team Owner
That wheel you made is beautiful, but
for the guys without talent- fly into Jakarta with an example wheel in your carry on bags. Go out to the countryside and purchase a pig, water buffalo and two chickens and then go find a guy who makes wood/metal products for tourists!
#46
Instructor
Thread Starter
Question: In your photos showing the teak pieces laid out for glue up, the small pieces of teak placed between the joints appear to be the same color of wood as the larger pieces. But, in the final photos of the completed wheel, the smaller inserts between the larger rim pieces stand out and appear darker than the others (which is desirable, I would think).
I'm assuming they were glued up as shown in the first of your photos, why do they appear darker in the completed wheel?
(Please forgive my ignorance . . . . . . )
I'm assuming they were glued up as shown in the first of your photos, why do they appear darker in the completed wheel?
(Please forgive my ignorance . . . . . . )
#48
Le Mans Master
The small pieces are the same teak. They are glued up cross (grain running in opposite direction) to the larger pieces. According to the Restorer magazine GM tests showed that building a wheel this way was safer in an accident. I guess they felt that the wheel would break into pieces at these joints. The thin wood spacers appear darker because once the wheel is shaped most of the exposed wood of these spacers is end grain. End grain absorbs more wood finish and reflects light differently so it appears darker.
Appreciate your answer, and the detailed photos and explanation in your thread showing how you accomplished the construction. Beautiful work, as others have noted!
#50
Burning Brakes
Question for 69RED:
I made a copy of your instructions and will be making a teak wheel. One questions if you don't mind.
You used a 2" diameter 3/4" radius roundover bit and a 1 1/4" diameter 3/8" roundover bit. I have the 3/8" bit but am having trouble finding a large 3/4" roundover bit in 1/4" shank.
I have the same router circle jig as you used and it is made for 1/4" bits.
Do you have a 1/4" shank bit or did you use a 1/2" shank?
Thanks,
Don
I made a copy of your instructions and will be making a teak wheel. One questions if you don't mind.
You used a 2" diameter 3/4" radius roundover bit and a 1 1/4" diameter 3/8" roundover bit. I have the 3/8" bit but am having trouble finding a large 3/4" roundover bit in 1/4" shank.
I have the same router circle jig as you used and it is made for 1/4" bits.
Do you have a 1/4" shank bit or did you use a 1/2" shank?
Thanks,
Don
#51
Drifting
I had a basement filled with woodworking equipment and taught myself to make clocks, trays, tool boxes, music boxes etc, from the nicest maples, but I would not know how to begin to acquire the skills you have to make a steering wheel. You can be proud of your work.
#52
Racer
Originally Posted by dharris45
Question for 69RED:
I made a copy of your instructions and will be making a teak wheel. One questions if you don't mind.
You used a 2" diameter 3/4" radius roundover bit and a 1 1/4" diameter 3/8" roundover bit. I have the 3/8" bit but am having trouble finding a large 3/4" roundover bit in 1/4" shank.
I have the same router circle jig as you used and it is made for 1/4" bits.
Do you have a 1/4" shank bit or did you use a 1/2" shank?
Thanks,
Don
I made a copy of your instructions and will be making a teak wheel. One questions if you don't mind.
You used a 2" diameter 3/4" radius roundover bit and a 1 1/4" diameter 3/8" roundover bit. I have the 3/8" bit but am having trouble finding a large 3/4" roundover bit in 1/4" shank.
I have the same router circle jig as you used and it is made for 1/4" bits.
Do you have a 1/4" shank bit or did you use a 1/2" shank?
Thanks,
Don
#54
Wow! Thank you for sharing. I am mesmerize by how even your finger groove spacing is and the consistency of the grooves!
#55
Race Director
Gorgeous wheel! What craftsmanship, attention to detail, and great writeup.
#56
Melting Slicks
Thanks for the compliments. From a woodworking standpoint it's not a very difficult project. It doesn't really require expensive equipment either. The key is to have a circle cutting jig and a good miter gauge. Circle cutting jigs are inexpensive. You could even make your own jig for pennies. I probably spent around 8 hours building the wheel. I built it over the weekend except for the finish which I sprayed over a period of 5 days.
I'm still working on all three after 7 decades!
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