Revfan

Mine starts to slide out... about 3 inches or so and then stops. Do you just yank on it to get it out or is there a trick?

I have a new driveshaft/yoke that I am putting in, and the old shaft is out but the yoke is still in.

I don't want any more co$tly mistakes if I can avoid them.

Thanks!

*edit*
A buddy said, "just pull it"
And man, I am putting some effort in to it (or as much as I can with the car up on jack stands) and it gets to that 3 inch mark and doesn't want to come out.

Frankie the Fink

Unless the seal is interfering with removal, there is damage or a burr on the splines OR there is some sort of suction taking place it should slide straight out; my '61 does at least.

That yoke is like a mini air pump when piston-ing in and out going down the road over bumps and I had a theory that that is what blew the Welch plug out of the Keisler yokes.

Jackfit

Does the yoke still feel as if it is on the output shaft or can you move it around , with the rear seal holding end of yoke?

Revfan

I can get it to move/turn freely... but when I start pulling on it, it goes about 3" or 2/3rds the way "out" and then it sticks... can't turn it or move it.

I push it back in and turn it a bit and try it again.... and I mean I yank/pry/pull for all I am worth...

Jackfit

Sounds like it is hung up on rear seal. When you say you can move (rotate) is the tranny gears turning? When you pull it out is it still on shaft? Or stuck on seal, if seal , you need to pull it out with seal coming along , as there is a problem with yoke or seal , pull real hard , if off shaft

DansYellow66

It also could be some wear on the yoke from the rear bushing, creating a shoulder that is catching on the bushing or the seal. If I understand correctly it's locking up the transmission from rotating so there must be some interference with the bushing. It should pull out with some effort. Even if it tears the seal that's pretty simple to change out. Does the yoke have some lateral play in it (to the side) when pushed back into position? If so you may need a new bushing and/or yoke also.

BD104X

This would be my guess also, including the part about needing a new bushing.

Frankie the Fink

If that's the case its good your replacing the yoke - something is seriously bunged up. I've never had one do anything but slide rearward and usually so easily I had to be careful not to drop it.

I hate to even suggest it but is there some way to get a bar through the front U-joint gap and try carefully leveraging rearward against some strong pivot point ?

Revfan

I can pull it so that it feels like it is no longer engaging the shaft... but then it gets stuck. So from what you guys are saying, I am thinking that its getting stuck on the bushing/seal.

Sigh....

Car show season starts next weekend, and It'd take 10-14 days to get a new bushing/seal combo.

I might just use the old drive-shaft and save the switch to new shaft/seal/bushing for a rainy day after the parts come in.

MikeM

Get a steel hammer and drive it out of the transmission. You have nothing to lose but a seal and a bushing.

Build up your energy while you're waiting on a rainy day.

Frankie the Fink

Why are you changing it out ?
Leaking, out-of-balance, bad U-joints, wrong part ?

Maybe its one of those "best left alone" things...

Revfan

Heck... I replaced the diff, rebuilt Trailing Arms, restored the halfshafts & replaced U-joints. Cleaned the frame up, got new e-brake cables... I even replaced the jack hold down brackets...

Got a restored/balanced drive shaft & Yoke... kind of a shame to not put it on after all that.

Was it giving me problems?
No.
So back in it went.

DansYellow66

Did you check the yoke for side play when pushed back in? If there is play in it, it may cause you some driveline vibration. But other than that no harm. As MikeM suggested, when you get ready to change it out a slide hammer or few blows with a 5lb hammer should get it out. You might get lucky and the bushing slide out with it - but probably not.

Revfan

When I pushed it back in, it was pretty solid without movement.

I'll go ahead an order the bushing & Seal... to be ready when needed.

Thanks guys!

Frankie the Fink

Well if you follow MikeM's approach with Pertronix you should keep that spare driveshaft behind the seat somewhere.....ya just never know !

MikeM

I don't know what transmission you're working on but if that's a BW T 10, you may have a twisted mainshaft on the splines and that's what can cause the binding.

It that's what it is, the hammer is your best friend. If the splines are twisted, that'll cause U-joint failure sooner than later.

6D2148

Try putting shaft back on to the yoke, that will give more leverage, and something to hold onto , and slide in and out like it was a slide hammer. Chip

69z28&ss396

If you car has a Muncie, which I think it does, 67 right?!? It is the bushing in the back of the tranny. There is a bushing in the tail shaft that holds the yoke stable much like an input bushing in the back of the crank. If those aren't replaced over time they wear grooves in them and he looser they get the bigger the grooves. You will need to replace the bushing and the rear seal. Now for the hard part. Slide the shaft in and out very fast with a banging action at the end of the pull out. It should pop loose. If not hammer and pry bar!

To replace the bushing, you need to remove the tranny.. PROJECT CREEP!! take the tail shaft off and drive the bushing out. Reinstall new bushing, then put the tranny back together. Wait until it's in the car to reinstall the seal. You will get oily.. But it will be done right.. PM me if you want further instructions should you decide to go that route..

Good luck
Tony

Revfan

Yes... its a Muncie (67 Convertible)

ugghhh....

Sounds like next winters project.

VITIV Coupe

I have to replace my leaking rear seal on my Muncie M20 next week. I hope mine just slides out. The car is on stands and I'm 64 and I don't feel like wrestling with anything anymore.