Revfan

First
67 Corvette Convertible
Resources
1967 AIM
1967 Judging Manual 5th Printing
1967 Chassis Service Manual
Jim Shea's Non Tele 67/68 Steering Column Papers




Problem
I am at the point of fine tuning since I am coming down the home stretch on my 67 Driver Restoration.

I rebuilt the column as per Jim's paper last year and replaced the upper & Lower bearings as well as the turn signal switch.

When I got it all back together, the steering wheel was not aligned properly, and is probably 1/4 turn from being in the proper position... I could live with that, and thought I'd have the opportunity to fix it later.

At the end of last years driving season, I noticed "grinding" feeling in the wheel as I would turn it. In my restoration, I replaced the upper bearing, but couldn't get it to seat well in the bearing housing (Jim's paper calls for it to be epoxied in place) and thought that "that" was my problem.

I bought a new bearing that came seated in a housing, so a few weeks ago I pulled the previously replaced bearing out (even though it is still practically new), and put the new bearing/housing combo back in.

That worked for a drive or two, and now the grinding feeling is back.


My concern is that the steering column itself might not be positioned properly through the firewall and into the rag joint, that there may be some stress along the way which may be causing the actual steering shaft to be cocked inside the mast jacket...



I reprinted Jim's column papers and went out to the garage this morning to start the process of removing the column, to recheck the lower bearing and and column set up...

In the process, I was reminded of the devil-of-a-time I had putting the column back in. In Jim's paper:
1967 (Late) - 1968 CORVETTE STANDARD (NON-ADJUSTABLE)
STEERING COLUMN DISASSEMBLY & REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
PAPER #2

On page 3 under
Column Removal Procedures 1967-68

It states:
This is where my difficulty lies. It is impossible to pull the column "straight back" because the bracket of the column assembly (see top pic) does not hang lower than the dash. So when I pull straight back, the column bracket hits the dash and I can't pull it out.



While it will pull forward about an inch or so, its not enough to pull out of the rag joint...



To get the column "out" I would have to put lots of downward pressure on column to make the bracket not conflict with the dash. Is this the normal operating procedure for removing the column and is what is considered pulling the column straight back? I feel as if i would be making more problems for myself if I forced the column out.

Did I assemble something wrong along the way, causing these frustrations now?

Any help would be greatly appreciated... I have a Daddy Daughter Dance to go to Friday night, and my daughter would LOVE for us to take the Vette....




Thanks, in advance!

Ausbrian

It looks like you need to push down on the column in order to clear the dash bezel then pull straight out as the bracket is fixed.You probably know not to use too much force otherwise the two little plastic pins will shear inside the column shaft.I did a modification to a similar type of steering column to improve the feel. I replaced the upper bearing with a needle roller assembly and the lower bearing with a single row roller ball bearing, this removed all the free play and improved the steering feel.As for your grinding, if the steering column shaft has been collapsed and repaired check for run out on the shaft.

rich5962

At the rag joint, remove the 2 nuts holding the rearward flange (edit.....VIEW A in the AIM, "STEERING GEAR"). Pull back to clear the studs. That should give you enough clearance to drop the column at the cluster.

IIRC, on assembly originally, that flange is attached to the column after passing through the firewall. then it is attached to the forward part of the rag joint later.

Rich

Tampa Jerry

As for centering the steering wheel, once you are satisfied with the bearings and fit of the column, have the car aligned for toe. The tech will center your steering wheel and reset the tie rods. This will center the steering wheel. I just went through this with my Chevelle. Jerry

JohnZ

The rag joint came as part of the steering gear - the end of the column was the splined shaft, just as shown in the AIM, and the end of the steering shaft was introduced to/inserted in the rag joint flange after Body Drop.

rich5962

Thanks for clarifying that John. I thought wrong. I seemed to recall a photo showing that method, and maybe the picture in the AIM above misled me.

I found this info from Jim Shea in another thread......

There are two recommended ways of gaining clearance so that you can remove the flexible coupling:

1). The first is to detach the steering column from the floor pan and also remove the covers to the instrument cluster and the three vertical bolts that hold the steering column up into the dash structure. This will allow you to pull the entire steering column a couple inches back into the driver compartment (thus gaining just enough clearance to remove the flex coupling.)

2). The other is to unfasten the steering gear from the frame. This will allow you to tip the gear sufficiently to gain clearance to again remove the flexible coupling.

1967 was the first year for the collapsible, energy absorbing steering column in the Corvette. If you pry on the flexible coupling when trying to make more axial clearance so that you can remove it, you will most likely cause the steering shaft to slide up inside the steering column. You will have to pull it back out. For some reason, it is much more difficult to "pull the shaft back out" than it is to press it into the column.

Jim



EDIT.....I'm wondering if the shaft has extended when you pulled the column up and rearward in the removal process. As Jim states, it's easier to pull the bottom shaft out of the upper shaft, than it is to do the opposite.

Here is another paper Jim wrote.....
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...-03JL20141.pdf

However he doesn't specifically address the upper bracket hitting the cluster, so maybe the shafts did separate a bit.

If your shafts have separated and you cannot slide the lower shaft back up into the upper shaft, maybe this......

Remove the screws holding the cluster and replace them with the long 1/4-20 bolts as if you were going to remove the cluster. But bring the cluster back just enough so it clears the upper column bracket. Maybe just a inch or so. When the column is out you may be able to spec a measurement against Jim's specs to see if the shaft has in fact pulled out a bit.

Rich

rich5962

One other thing I just noticed in one of your photos......

You must remove the pinch bolt completely according to Jim. He states there is a "thumb bump" and if the pinch bolt is still in there it may prevent the shaft from coming out of the flange.

Remove the clamp bolt (5) and washer (6) from the
support assembly (1) on the engine compartment side of
the lower dash panel. You should be able to pry the clamp
open sufficiently to be able to clear the thumb bumps on
the lower end of the steering column.
Use a crayon or piece of chalk to mark the orientation of
the steering column shaft to the steering column flange.
Remove pinch bolt (7) from the steering column flange
and spring the flange open with a large screwdriver.

Revfan

rich5962 !!!!!!!

That was the ticket! and made pulling the steering wheel out AND ESPECIALLY putting it back in a BREEZE!


The cause of my problem was a VERY DRY lower bearing. I pulled it out, and greased it up a bit and not it works as it should!
Thanks a BUNCH guys! You came through again!

rich5962

Glad you got it!