65VetteVert

Last five are 13xxx

BANG11

That doesn't work for you, your car should have came off the assembly line April 1, 1965. So your original block couldn't have been cast after that day.

My 65 VIN is 18921, maybe it's my block!

Revfan

Best of luck!

I am gonna pull up a chair and watch your progress!

65silververt

I personally would not worry about the build date of the block since the engine is not original anyway. Build it to look like a 350hp with an aluminum intake, aluminum valve covers and a holley or quick fuel and have some fun!

65VetteVert

Thanks for the help decoding what I have! I knew it wasn't numbers matching, since the block has no numbers on the pad. But it would have been cool if the date codes worked out.


But at least it is a 1965 Corvette 327 engine. Probably the 250 horse, wearing 300 horse valve covers.


The car came with a set of 462 double hump heads, 7 fin Corvette valve covers, and a Winters GM aluminum intake. It looks like the previous owner was looking to upgrade the engine, I will eventually put these parts on.

Vet65te

You mentioned the existing heads on the engine in the Vette have the Pyramid shape at the end, in 65 even the 250 horse 327 came with the #461 heads and 1.94 intake valves. When you pull a valve cover, let us know the casting number and date code. If the tach face is to be believed and as pointed out already, it looks to be the same 'vintage' as the rest of the car, then your roadster started out as a L79 350 horse 327 with an aluminum intake.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

65VetteVert

I've had it running now a few times, it starts right up, but is in a rough state of tune. Carb leaks inside & out, i got a kit. Tried to set timing, but the dist. must be off a tooth, can't turn it to where it needs to be without the vacuum advance hitting the coil. I'll move it back a tooth when i get some new points, plugs, and wires.

I backed it out of the barn, thats when i saw the fuel pump was leaking! More Fun! I jacked it up to see if cutting an inch off the rubber hose would fix it, no such luck. But I was surprised to see the steel line from the tank is 3/8", looks large from my experience.

While I had it up in the air, I can't even turn the right front wheel. I know he replaced the brakes and lines, but after sitting so long, I guess this one is stuck. Time to try my hand on the lead hammer for the first time!

I don't have the numbers off the heads yet, but the intake on it is 3844457, dated 1233. Origins??

It came with a loose intake, aluminum GM 3844481, know what that's off of?

Thanks for all the help,
Dave

Vet65te

Dave - that first intake, the cast iron #3844457 was used in 64 and 65 for the 250 horse 327s. The date code you found looks to be cast in late 63 for a 64 model 250 horse 327. That aluminum intake, do you think the numbers are #3844461 instead of #3844481? If so it was found on 64/65 higher horse smallblocks like 350/365 horse.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

65VetteVert

Mike, you're right, it is 3844461. It looks like I have the correct heads and intake to upgrade this engine to 350 HP. I'll pick up a Holley and cam, I've got gaskets, and do a rattle can top end rebuild!

I've put together a list of what I need now, I'm looking forward to the Bloomington Gold show next month, and here in Indy this year! I've never been. My two Hot Rods are pretty much finished, it's fun to have a car to shop for!
Dave

LouieM

Great project!
What's HAMB?

Vet65te

The HAMB stands for 'Hokey Azzed Message Board' and is part of the Jalopy Journal. It's a place for hot rodders interested in early cars, typically 50's on back.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

LouieM

Good to know about it, Mike. Thanks.

Lou

65VetteVert

Progress is slow this time of year, with vacations, car shows, and yard work to attend to. But I'm making progress, and have it up on some high jack stands. I'm cleaning the frame for painting, and degreasing the engine & trans. Then I'll remove the wheels and see why I have no brakes! I'm afraid the new calipers he put on years ago are seized, and will probably leak when freed up.

I'm looking forward to the BG show next week, and taking a big shopping list!
Dave

65VetteVert

I had a great time at the BG show, rode along in my friends '60. I saw a lot of mid year vettes, but was surprised the majority of the show field seemed to be late models. I usually think of a car show as being "old cars". I found a few parts I needed in the swap meet.

I've got the underside completely scraped, wire brushed, and primed. Ready for some black paint, I'll be glad when this dirty work is done! As soon as I get the brakes bled, it's back on the ground for my first test drive, I can't wait for that!

Zoomin

The worst part is behind you now. All you lack is finishing up!

65VetteVert

I'm almost finished painting the frame, it sure looks better! I've got brakes now, with a new MC and one rebuilt caliper, but I will probably need to rebuild the other calipers. They're pretty easy, and already SS sleeved! I put on a new fuel pump, man is that in a tight spot!

I bought an upper radiator hose, but it's incorrect. I seem to have some mismatched parts... Can anyone tell from the picture in post #8 above, which application for the upper hose I need? The one I bought has a single bend, and the old one snakes around the oil filler...

After I finish painting the frame, a tune up, and rebuilding the WCFB, it's back on the ground for a test drive! I live out in the country, I don't need doors or a hood for a test drive...

Easy Rhino

Enjoying watching your progress. One note - you can eliminate the significant possibility of it being a big block without the few key identifiers (rear sway bar, half-shaft u-joint retainers, etc.), and the fuelie if it does not have the tale-tells (high rpm tach, holes in fenders for the fuel-specific emblems). That leaves you with one of four 327s: 250, 300, 350, and 365 from which to choose. If your gage cluster is unmolested, compare the red/yellow lines, the oil pressure gage range, and check the gage cluster tag for LA, LB, and LC and the date stamp on it. That will at least narrow it down for you. Also, if the tranny is original, it will have the VIN derivative stamped into it matching the car's. If so, figuring out if it is a wide ratio or close ratio will also yield a clue.

My '65s VIN is 18765, maybe it's mine! Mine is about 1 or 2 days older.

I'm assuming you guys have read the '65 restoration thread up in the stickees section.

396/425

It means. Hokey *** Message Board. They got the *** right...alot of them on that site. Go on it and tell them youre gonna build a rat rod. Youll see.

65VetteVert

I'm learning a lot about my '65 roadster on this forum, and I'm on here reading almost daily. I'm able to work on the vette 1 or 2 days a week, and am making progress. I thought I had the brakes working, but another started leaking, so I have been pulling them all, rebuilding the SS calipers, and installing new premium NAPA pads and new hoses.

Getting those rear rotors off is tough, and then to find cracked parking brakes shoes and broken springs! I'll get the rotors turned, inside and outside, new caliper seals, pads, shoes, springs, and parking brake cables. I want a good parking brake with a a manual transmission.

I thought I'd be posting my first test drive by now, but I'm getting close!

Bluestripe67

If it's not too late, mark the rotors to the hubs. Also, it may not be necessary to turn the rotors unless they are gouged or have a significant lip. If that's the case, be careful so they don't go undersize when turned. Dennis