And so it begins, my '65 convertible...
#61
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Mar 2010
Location: The Golden Triangle, Florida
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2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '20-'21-'22-'23-'24
The spare set is knock offs, on the car is bolt on's that look like knock offs. The knock offs are marked on the back "WESTERN WHEEL CORP. K-H" I believe these are early re-pops, probably worth something, but I don't know what. I do have the hub adapters and spinners. I would sell them...
They are worth something but I don't know how much either. A lot depends on their condition. I'm sure someone here will chime in with some guidance.
-- Steve
#63
Instructor
Thread Starter
Owned it one year today!
Today marks my one year anniversary of buying this vette. When I bought this car, I knew nothing about Corvettes, but I knew this was a solid project car. I knew there were stacks of new parts that came with this car, but I didn't realize the full extent of them all until I inventoried it all. Wow!
One thing I did know, you don't walk away from a $15K deal like this! I'm glad I didn't!
Frame is done, and painted. Brakes are done. Engine now has correct heads, intake, and carb installed. Detailed under hood done.
I would say installing these headlights was the hardest part so far. I didn't take them apart, nothing was organized or marked. But I've got the AIM, Chiltons Book, and a stack of catalogs with great assembly pictures in them. I found most parts, bought a few, rebuilt the motors, and now they open & close (sort of).
I have removed the headlight opening switch. If I put the probe wire in the harness, I can open and close the lights. I test the switch with an OHM meter, it's good. But plug the switch into the harness, nothing opens. The dim lights come on with the pull switch, all goes dark when the dimmer switch is clicked.
So here I am after one year, screwing around with this old car in my spare time. Everyone asks me when it will be done, I just say a year or two, like I said the day I bought it!
And one of these days it will be done! Thanks to you all for the help given, it would be so much harder without all the forum help, and motivation!
One thing I did know, you don't walk away from a $15K deal like this! I'm glad I didn't!
Frame is done, and painted. Brakes are done. Engine now has correct heads, intake, and carb installed. Detailed under hood done.
I would say installing these headlights was the hardest part so far. I didn't take them apart, nothing was organized or marked. But I've got the AIM, Chiltons Book, and a stack of catalogs with great assembly pictures in them. I found most parts, bought a few, rebuilt the motors, and now they open & close (sort of).
I have removed the headlight opening switch. If I put the probe wire in the harness, I can open and close the lights. I test the switch with an OHM meter, it's good. But plug the switch into the harness, nothing opens. The dim lights come on with the pull switch, all goes dark when the dimmer switch is clicked.
So here I am after one year, screwing around with this old car in my spare time. Everyone asks me when it will be done, I just say a year or two, like I said the day I bought it!
And one of these days it will be done! Thanks to you all for the help given, it would be so much harder without all the forum help, and motivation!
#64
Instructor
Thread Starter
After putting the engine back together over the winter, I was having difficulty starting the car, and poor running. I traced it down to a weak spark issue, and put in a Pertronix Flame Thrower II yesterday. It starts now with a touch of the key, and runs great. Laid down two nice black marks in front of the house!
It sure is more motivating to me to be able to start the car up, and back it out of the barn to work on it if I want to...
It sure is more motivating to me to be able to start the car up, and back it out of the barn to work on it if I want to...
#65
Race Director
Member Since: Jan 2002
Location: Close to DC
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C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
[ Laid down two nice black marks in front of the house!
That was a manly thing too do! Dennis
That was a manly thing too do! Dennis
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65VetteVert (04-18-2016)
#66
Instructor
Thread Starter
I've had this noise in the rear, sounds like a tire rubbing a fender with each revolution. But nothing's rubbing under there. Everything feels tight back there, when trying to move the wheel or the half shafts. Then I notice some rust dust coming from an outer U-joint.
I pulled the half shafts this afternoon. The inner joints feel good, and have grease zerks. The outer (no zerk) on the driver side has seized and can only be moved on one cross shaft. I hope this is the noise!
The outer joint on the other side moves, but feels rough when doing so. I will replace all four and hope the noise is gone...
I pulled the half shafts this afternoon. The inner joints feel good, and have grease zerks. The outer (no zerk) on the driver side has seized and can only be moved on one cross shaft. I hope this is the noise!
The outer joint on the other side moves, but feels rough when doing so. I will replace all four and hope the noise is gone...
#67
Instructor
Thread Starter
Making some progress
I got 4 new Spicer U-joints installed in the half shafts today, and have them both under the car. Not too bad a job installing these shafts. Now for a test drive my next day off to see if the noise is gone.
These are the Heavy Duty U-joint caps, aren't they?
These are the Heavy Duty U-joint caps, aren't they?
#68
Instructor
Thread Starter
I've been going over the body multiple times now with polyester finishing putty, getting it straight as I can. I have test fitted the decklid and new hood, they both fit great! Body work is slow, tedious, dirty work, I think I liked the mechanical work better! Had a friend with body work experience come over with an air powered long board sander and he thinks it is now ready for primer! We'll prime it, block it again and again.
I have been able to enjoy driving it up and down the country road I live on, and those short drives sure fuel me up to keep on.
This car sat dead for a dozen years, but it's slowly coming back to life.
I have been able to enjoy driving it up and down the country road I live on, and those short drives sure fuel me up to keep on.
This car sat dead for a dozen years, but it's slowly coming back to life.
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Kerrmudgeon (07-26-2016)
#69
Instructor
Thread Starter
Primed!
It's feeling like I'm getting somewhere now! I've got the 'vette in primer. This is the first time I've seen the car in one solid color, it had been stripped for a long time.
I've still got both hoods to prepare and prime. I will paint both the stock hood, and the stinger hood, and I can revert back to the stock hood if I decide I don't like the stinger hood on a small block '65.
Now on to lacquer putty, wet sanding, then a guide coat, and more block sanding. We're going to see how good we can make this car, with a garage paint job.
I've still got both hoods to prepare and prime. I will paint both the stock hood, and the stinger hood, and I can revert back to the stock hood if I decide I don't like the stinger hood on a small block '65.
Now on to lacquer putty, wet sanding, then a guide coat, and more block sanding. We're going to see how good we can make this car, with a garage paint job.
#70
Le Mans Master
It always feels good to see one in primer! From one garage painter to another, don't use the old lacquer putty, use a modern polyester putty. The lacquer stuff just isn't the most stable long term. I have a little on my car and but I like the newer stuff.
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65VetteVert (08-03-2016)
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65VetteVert (08-03-2016)
#72
Instructor
Thread Starter
I've got the body wet sanded with 320, and am on my 2nd round of polyester finishing putty. Went through the primer in a few places, will re-spray them with my hood, if it ever stops raining when I have the day off.
Got the hood cut out for the grill, it looks like I might be able to run without the grill when I feel the need for some fresh air induction!
Got the hood cut out for the grill, it looks like I might be able to run without the grill when I feel the need for some fresh air induction!
#73
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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Just don't drive it in the rain - it was headed for production release with that front wall of the stinger removed until it failed the Water Ingestion Test at the Proving Grounds.
#74
Race Director
Are you planning to paint with lacquer? Even if you are, I also would try to avoid the lacquer spot putty. Lots of shrinkage. I would use a 2K spot putty.
#75
Instructor
Thread Starter
I am using Bondo brand 2 part polyester finishing putty, thanks to ChattanoogaJSB for the early advise! This stuff goes on real smooth, easy to sand, and sets up in about 3 minutes.
Dan, I will be painting this with acrylic enamel single stage. The trim tag says red, so that's what she's getting!
Dan, I will be painting this with acrylic enamel single stage. The trim tag says red, so that's what she's getting!
#76
Instructor
Thread Starter
I have wet sanded everything with 320, and filled any pits and scratches I could find. I got the second coat of primer on it Sunday, will wet sand this coat with 400, looking for and filling any more imperfections I can find.
But it will have to sit a couple weeks, I'm going fishing!
But it will have to sit a couple weeks, I'm going fishing!
#77
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm finally done priming and wet sanding! Glad the bodywork is behind me, it's the least favorite part of restoration for me, I'd rather be wrenching!
Now on to paint...
Now on to paint...
#78
Melting Slicks
#80
Melting Slicks
Did you use a "guide coat" to highlight the areas needing further attention? Didn't see any signs of it in your shots....
BTW, great decision to leave the body on when setting all the panel gaps. Particularly a convertible body which will flex in multiple directions when on a dolly.