MOXIE62

I'm trying to replace the oil gauge. Before I can do that I need to push the instrument cluster up a few inches so I can have enough room to remove. To do that it looks like I need to remove the mast jacket escutcheon where I can push it forward but I can not figure whats holding it in place. I remove the 2 bottom screws but something else is holding it tight.

DucatiDon

There is another bracket underneath holding the column up to the birdcage. With that removed, it just drops down out of the cluster.

Bluestripe67

You don't state what year you have. Look on the engine side of the firewall and see if a bracket is supporting the column. If so, you need to loosen or remove it for more movement. Dennis

DucatiDon

BTW, if its a 63-67 with factory oil gauge, you will need to remove the entire cluster to get to the gauge. The back panel covers the gauge mounting bolts.

MOXIE62

It's a 63 and I'm hoping that just sliding the cluster up a few inches will give me another room to remove original oil gauge. I think someone on this forum said that he replaced the oil gauge without moving or removing the instru cluster.

DucatiDon

Pretty sure there is a cover over it...not sure you can access it. Let us know if you are successful....I have a battery gauge to replace but not ready to pull the whole cluster again.

Frankie the Fink

I think that might NOT have been a '63.

Here is a '63 cluster; you'll have a devil of a time changing that gauge with the cluster in the car;
you will have to reach those tiny sheet metal screws to remove the cover -- the odds of screwing something
up are very high

tbarb

remove complete steering column, remove entire gauge cluster.. take your time, those 63 parts are hard to find. What's the matter with the oil gauge, if it's leaking at the fitting change the tube and fitting.

did I say take your time..

Frankie the Fink

IMO that's the only way to do it.
If you need me to post JohnZ's excellent tutorial on removing the cluster (which includes '63 specifics) I'll do that...

DucatiDon

I agree. Did it once already. not fun, but the JohnZ article helped a ton.

especially the threaded rod for the cluster screws....

Frankie the Fink

Yessir ! It helps working under the dash if you have a rubber neck and ball-bearing back though.
The C2 dash harnesses have nearly zero slack in them so easing the cluster forward to disconnect things via the screws is
the only way to go; ESPECIALLY to reach that damn ground wire on the spade connector at the very top of the cluster

MOXIE62

Wasn't to bad of a job. I removed the fasteners to where I could pull the steering mass out a couple inches, put in the 1/4 bolts to where I could slide the instrument cluster out . Removed the emergence brake assembly and the ignition switch and then was able to remove the wiring and 3 screws that hold the oil/temp cluster. Pull gauges straight out with little interference. Right now I'm fixing a few bubba wiring but should have it back together tomorrow. The reproduction oil gauge really looks nice. You would have to set it against an original gauge to see any difference but then it's very subtle. I'm installing an 80 pound gauge instead of the 60. The engine has less then 1000 miles since rebuilt and this last winter generic gauge got up close to 60 pound. I thought I would be on the safe side to install an 80. According to vin number 80 is not correct but I can live with that.

Frankie the Fink

My hat is off to you if you changed that gauge without removing the cluster.

tbarb

Congratulations on removing the gauge without pulling the cluster.

Are you saying you changed the gauge because it read near 60lbs. pressure with the engine running? The low hp engine is supposed to have a 45psi relief oil pump.

MOXIE62

When I purchased the car the owner said the gauge had stop working. He put a generic 80 pound gauge and had it plastic tied to the emergency brake handle. During the cold weather I noticed that the gauge had gotten close to the 60 pound mark so to be safe I'm installing an 80 pound gauge. This must of been a common problem when the cars were new because in Nolan Adams book he states that the 60 pound gauges would often "pegged out" on a cold engine (which is what mine did). So in late 63 production cars they were installing 80 pound gauges on all cars regardless of engine size.

Frankie the Fink

My original.May 63 car 250hp has an 80# gauge. Don't know if I would have gone thru what you did to change it out tho!

tbarb

It is correct the early 63 cars had the 60lb gauge but all hp engines had the 45psi oil pump relief spring. IMO, the gauge would not peg at 60lbs with this spring unless the oil was thick and the volume through the relief hole did not keep up with pump output.

I assume the 80lb gauge started with the use of the 55psi relief spring in the 340 and 360hp cars.

If you car has the 250/300hp engine I would start with the oil pump, it's easier than working on the dash.

MOXIE62

First picture shows engine when I started it. The pressure looks to be 50 pounds. So, with the cold winter maybe gauge would hit 60, maybe not, which ever the case, it want damaged the gauge with high pressure.
Second picture shows how I ran the oil line in front of the emergency bracket instead of going through the hole. For me this is a lot easier should I ever have to remove the emergency ***'y, I will not have to disconnect the oil line.
Last picture shows the temp gauge. Can you guys tell me by the gauge what the temp of engine should be. My thermal gun show 146 degrees. How close do you think it is with what the gauge shows.

Frankie the Fink

Your temp doesn't sound that far off, BUT where are you shooting to get the actual underhood temperature....?

MOXIE62

At the top of the thermostate housing.