Upper steering shaft bearing
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Upper steering shaft bearing
Replaced the upper steering shaft bearing (which also includes the horn contact) on my 61 today because I believed there was excessive movement / play at the steering wheel. It hasn't made any difference and I can still move the steering wheel up & down and left & right slightly. Is this normal and the way it's meant to be?
Also I can't seem to stop the indicator housing Assy. from moving on the steering column. It moves up and down a bit each time I put the indicator on. I have tightened the screw at the back as tight as I can, but it hasn't stopped the movement. Any thoughts on that one?
Any feedback appreciated.
Also I can't seem to stop the indicator housing Assy. from moving on the steering column. It moves up and down a bit each time I put the indicator on. I have tightened the screw at the back as tight as I can, but it hasn't stopped the movement. Any thoughts on that one?
Any feedback appreciated.
#2
Safety Car
Excessive is not normal.
Before the wheel went back on, did you reinstall the retainer and the spring?
The retainer and spring keeps the bearing inner race tight to the shaft.
That clamp for the directional hub is a pain. Some here have used "Plasti-Dip" to coat it to keep it from slipping.
Rich
Before the wheel went back on, did you reinstall the retainer and the spring?
The retainer and spring keeps the bearing inner race tight to the shaft.
That clamp for the directional hub is a pain. Some here have used "Plasti-Dip" to coat it to keep it from slipping.
Rich
#3
Team Owner
Plast-Dip for coating tool handles works well and is available at Ace Hardware. Also, you CAN put the turn signal housing 'wedge' in backwards; make sure its in right. Some replace the Philip's head screw for the wedge with an Allen head so they can torque down on it enough to prevent movement.
I wouldn't drive the car until you figure out the excessive steering wheel play -- hopefully its a simple fix as Rich describes above.
I wouldn't drive the car until you figure out the excessive steering wheel play -- hopefully its a simple fix as Rich describes above.
#4
Safety Car
If the retainer is missing, unfortunately they are not reproduced.
I came up with a idea a while ago but never followed up to actually make one. It uses the inner race of a old upper bearing. It's almost a perfect size.
Take the bearing apart.....
Using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel, slice the race along it's perimeter to make it the same depth as the retainer. Then cut a slot in it to make the opening for it's "spring" effect. The inner race is hardened steel just like the retainer.
I have to make one for a '61 column I have here but haven't gotten around to it yet. I think it may work out pretty well.
===
I came up with a idea a while ago but never followed up to actually make one. It uses the inner race of a old upper bearing. It's almost a perfect size.
Take the bearing apart.....
Using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel, slice the race along it's perimeter to make it the same depth as the retainer. Then cut a slot in it to make the opening for it's "spring" effect. The inner race is hardened steel just like the retainer.
I have to make one for a '61 column I have here but haven't gotten around to it yet. I think it may work out pretty well.
===
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Excessive is not normal.
Before the wheel went back on, did you reinstall the retainer and the spring?
The retainer and spring keeps the bearing inner race tight to the shaft.
That clamp for the directional hub is a pain. Some here have used "Plasti-Dip" to coat it to keep it from slipping.
Rich
Before the wheel went back on, did you reinstall the retainer and the spring?
The retainer and spring keeps the bearing inner race tight to the shaft.
That clamp for the directional hub is a pain. Some here have used "Plasti-Dip" to coat it to keep it from slipping.
Rich
thanks Russell
#6
Safety Car
Russell, Unfortunately no reproductions exist. You'll have to either find a used one or make one.
If you make one from my idea please post some photos and tell us if it worked. If I get time this week I may finish mine as I need one myself.
Rich
If you make one from my idea please post some photos and tell us if it worked. If I get time this week I may finish mine as I need one myself.
Rich
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the quick reply. i might as well have a go at making one from the old bearing assy. as i don't need it any more. A bit odd they are not available as a replacement item as the bearing assy. is.
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Dumb question Rich. Just re looking at your photo's and trying to work out how this all works as i don't have the steering wheel back off to eyeball it physically. Is the `Retainer' ring just there to apply a pre-load on the inner race of the bearing via the spring? Couldn't a washer type ring be machined with the ID. of the steering shaft diameter and used? Just a matter of how thick to make it. Can't be that simple, what am i missing here?
#9
Safety Car
The ID of the retainer pushes on the bearing and the shaft simultaneously to take out the side-to-side play. The spring keeps that pressure on the retainer to keep it tight against the inner race of the bearing. The OD of the retainer makes the contact with the spring to keep everything tight and reduce the play.
It has to be the cupped style, not just a flat washer.
It has to be the cupped style, not just a flat washer.
#10
Instructor
I stumbled upon this while surfing the web. Danchuk ( Danchuk.com ) sells the upper bearing with the spring and cupped washer for $18. The description says it is an improved bearing with more surface area. It also says fits 55-57 Chevy and fits 53-62 Corvette. For those not familiar with Danchuk, they manufacture quality USA made parts for the 55-57 Chevy. If you go to their site type in part # 008. I just ordered one for myself and will post back on fit and quality.
Erich
Erich
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
I stumbled upon this while surfing the web. Danchuk ( Danchuk.com ) sells the upper bearing with the spring and cupped washer for $18. The description says it is an improved bearing with more surface area. It also says fits 55-57 Chevy and fits 53-62 Corvette. For those not familiar with Danchuk, they manufacture quality USA made parts for the 55-57 Chevy. If you go to their site type in part # 008. I just ordered one for myself and will post back on fit and quality.
Erich
Erich
I will call them asap and get it sent downunder. I was going down the path of the idea that Rich had and have dismantled the bearing assembly and was waiting on a mate to machine the inner race down on a lathe, which I will follow through, but for the sake of $18.00 ($23.00AUD) approx, + postage I will get it so I have something to compare the retainer to. Once again, thank you very much
Cheers Russell.
#13
#14
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Mustang OK
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2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2015 C1 of the Year Finalist
THESE SAME PARTS EXIST ON 49-54 CHEVYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Are there any junk yards in your area?
Are there any junk yards in your area?
#16
Instructor
Disappointed!
I received the upper bearing kit from Danchuk a couple of days ago. I don't know where Danchuk got their info. from but the O.D. of their bearing is 1.410" . My original GM '62 bearing measures 1.670" ! You can see the difference in the photos. I have to say the bearing is well made and would have been nice if it fit. The split washer and spring are close and would have worked.
rich5962 While on the phone getting an RMA, I asked if the split washer was available separate. The sales rep. said, No.
Ozruss61 You can see in the photos what to expect. The spring and washer will work. If you know someone with a '55-'57 Chevy maybe you can sell the bearing to them and recoup some of your money.
So, I will be sending it back on my nickel. The only good thing for me was that I found my original split washer that I had misplaced.
Erich
rich5962 While on the phone getting an RMA, I asked if the split washer was available separate. The sales rep. said, No.
Ozruss61 You can see in the photos what to expect. The spring and washer will work. If you know someone with a '55-'57 Chevy maybe you can sell the bearing to them and recoup some of your money.
So, I will be sending it back on my nickel. The only good thing for me was that I found my original split washer that I had misplaced.
Erich
#18
Melting Slicks
They have a hard time in China converting our measurements to theirs. This is not a theory, it's an unfortunate fact which, is the reason soooo many aftermarket parts don't fit properly.
Gary
Gary
#19
Pro
Guess what. It has been 3 years since the last post and I just ordered a 008 bearing from Danchuk for my 57 Corvette
and they still sell the incorrect bearing for C1 Corvettes. I wish that I had read this old post before ordering the bearing
and I could have avoided this problem.
When they respond to my email, I will ask them to please change the description of the application for this part.
and they still sell the incorrect bearing for C1 Corvettes. I wish that I had read this old post before ordering the bearing
and I could have avoided this problem.
When they respond to my email, I will ask them to please change the description of the application for this part.
#20
Race Director
Classic Industries shows a bearing with wire and retainer for full size 58-75 Chev that includes the spring and retainer for around $20. Looks the same as the C-1 and might be worth a try. No idea about the bearing size, but retainer looks the same
Last edited by GCD1962; 07-04-2018 at 12:33 PM.