PCV vs. Original Road Draft Tube
#21
Pro
Last edited by jet-tech; 06-06-2015 at 12:40 PM.
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Tloner (04-07-2016)
#22
Race Director
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I did sort of what American Pie did on my '61, except I used a Chevy 350 PCV valve plugged directly into the hole in the back of the block with a grommet, rather than an in-line PCV valve. Ran the hose from the valve right into the back of the rear carburetor. Seems to work just fine. There are PCV grommets available in various sizes...I found one that plugged right into the hole in the block and fit snugly. PCV systems are superior to road draft systems, which only tend to work at speeds above 30 mph. A PCV system will help keep oil leaks at bay, too.
#23
Team Owner
Yes, you want a vented oil filler cap....
Technically the location of the PCV valve between the road draft tube hole and carb/intake vacuum source is a non-issue as long as it gets full vacuum and is installed in the right direction... It can be in the road draft tube hole, the rear of the carb or suspended in rubber hoses anywhere in between....i
However, the location will determine if you use a screw in PCV valve or the hose connection type....
Technically the location of the PCV valve between the road draft tube hole and carb/intake vacuum source is a non-issue as long as it gets full vacuum and is installed in the right direction... It can be in the road draft tube hole, the rear of the carb or suspended in rubber hoses anywhere in between....i
However, the location will determine if you use a screw in PCV valve or the hose connection type....
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 06-06-2015 at 07:42 PM.
#24
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That part is very hard to find BUT does come up on ebay at times. Keep your search going for about a month and one may pop up. Try to get one with the bolt that should come with it, but if not you can get the bolt from any hardware store or use the one that came on the road draft tube. Get your big checkbook out.
#25
Team Owner
Paragon has them (WHEN they have them) replated for $75. I've seen them on eBay as low as $50. They used to be plentiful in junkyards but you would be hard pressed to find one now probably. I have one on my '61 and a spare I picked up for a song at a swap meet that is packed away somewhere...
#26
Safety Car
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2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
[QUOTE=ByByeAmericanPie;1589775838]1961 - 283/245 - 2 WCFB Carbs
Every one has given you sound advise.
Here are a few thoughts from my experience. I have converted both my of 61's to a PCV system with zero issues and one is a Fuelie.
On the two four set up use the rear port on the center carb.
DO NOT use fuel hose for the PCV system, I use 3/8" power steering return line which is not affected by the oil vapors as fuel hose would be.
I also use the p/s hose for brake booster vacuum line, thicker walled with no chance of it collapsing.
You can directly screw in a threaded PCV valve into the 90 fitting at the back of the carb, I believe it is a Standard Ignition V100.
I carry them in my store.
I will look in my garage to see if I have one of the adapters.
Joe
#27
Team Owner
The Standard Ignition V-100 PCV will work and the AIM says the PCV goes into the front carb on a dual quad. HOWEVER, it makes adjusting the rear carb idle mixture screws a major league PITA...as the picture shows...
#28
Burning Brakes
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That part is currently on ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-1962-PCV-California-Car-Only-Corvette-/300829648191?hash=item460ad8253f&vxp=mtr) May have to scrool down.Good luck. Ashas been stated earlier, much cheaper to go in the direction F the F has described
#29
Team Owner
Ooo boy. That one is pricey and rough...it could be cleaned up and used though. Once installed it almost can't be seen anyway.
#31
Instructor
Thread Starter
This is a great discussion. I like the idea of using the grommet setup that Frank recommended. I may just go that way in the end. Another very good suggestion is to hit the junkyards. I will give that a try. And the suggestion to use the center carb for the vacuum...I never would have thought of that.
Thanks for the heads up on the fuel line vs p/s line. This is something else I would never have thought of.
I am indeed fortunate to have found this site with so many knowledgeable people. Indeed this will save me many hours and many $$$ over slogging though it myself.
Thanks for the heads up on the fuel line vs p/s line. This is something else I would never have thought of.
I am indeed fortunate to have found this site with so many knowledgeable people. Indeed this will save me many hours and many $$$ over slogging though it myself.
#34
Burning Brakes
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Found one in nice condition for $50
64 65 66 67 Chevelle Nova Chevy II Impala Biscayne Bel Air 283 327 block elbow| eBay
64 65 66 67 Chevelle Nova Chevy II Impala Biscayne Bel Air 283 327 block elbow| eBay
#36
63 non FI. Updated manifold and carb.
I'm getting a class b leak from the road draft tube hole at the back of my 327. Crankcase is also vented from oil tube w pcv to intake. Before I run what is suggested in post above, wanted to know if I had to worry about oil (vs fumes) being sucked into the manifold. Will the additional vacuum keep oil from rising to the road draft tube hole? It's always leaked oil from there but I lost the original draft tube elbow and using a plastic one that seems to fit well..but could also be the cause of the increased leak amount I suppose.
Background: recently replaced clutch and trans bearing retainer cap seal. Engine/trans had a hard time sandwiching the last 1/4 inch...most likely due to trans mount as I kept the trans in car. Car has been driven fine for several miles on two occasions since clutch replacement.
A year ago my rear main seal leaked. Took to a local (expensive) mechanic since I feared scratching the crank. He said he, as a favor, did an old school trick to my oil pump which made the oil pressure climb sooner and faster...but not higher than it used to.
Thanks!
I'm getting a class b leak from the road draft tube hole at the back of my 327. Crankcase is also vented from oil tube w pcv to intake. Before I run what is suggested in post above, wanted to know if I had to worry about oil (vs fumes) being sucked into the manifold. Will the additional vacuum keep oil from rising to the road draft tube hole? It's always leaked oil from there but I lost the original draft tube elbow and using a plastic one that seems to fit well..but could also be the cause of the increased leak amount I suppose.
Background: recently replaced clutch and trans bearing retainer cap seal. Engine/trans had a hard time sandwiching the last 1/4 inch...most likely due to trans mount as I kept the trans in car. Car has been driven fine for several miles on two occasions since clutch replacement.
A year ago my rear main seal leaked. Took to a local (expensive) mechanic since I feared scratching the crank. He said he, as a favor, did an old school trick to my oil pump which made the oil pressure climb sooner and faster...but not higher than it used to.
Thanks!
#37
You must be using clone carbs. My front wcfb does not have a vaccuum
fitting on the back.
Ray
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Rumblegutz (10-31-2016)
#39
Instructor
Thread Starter
I have ordered this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371343585073?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
And this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-68-Chevy-Small-Block-or-58-65-348-409-Big-Block-PCV-Valve-Conversion-Kit-/321126271779?hash=item4ac49e0b23&vxp=mtr
I will make a hybrid installation using both...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371343585073?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
And this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-68-Chevy-Small-Block-or-58-65-348-409-Big-Block-PCV-Valve-Conversion-Kit-/321126271779?hash=item4ac49e0b23&vxp=mtr
I will make a hybrid installation using both...