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On the back of the ignition switch there are two pink connections, in order for them to be connected across from each other in a straight line is it okay to connect to the "sol" connector? That position was left unused, and one of the pink lines were connect to "Bat". I believe from what I've read here is that the battery connection is left unattached. Iwant to move the pink line from "Bat" to "Sol"?
On the back of the ignition switch there are two pink connections, in order for them to be connected across from each other in a straight line is it okay to connect to the "sol" connector? That position was left unused, and one of the pink lines were connect to "Bat". I believe from what I've read here is that the battery connection is left unattached. Iwant to move the pink line from "Bat" to "Sol"?
Thanks, now have mine hooked up as indicated above, seems to work right. Directional signals now don't come on unless car is running, and the brake warning light doesn't come on when I pull the handle up when the car is not running. NOW just hope the wiring is correct, it looks like there's been a lot of patch work done under the dash. Thanks to both of you for the help, new to C1's.
If you have a real mess under there then you might want to get some Dr. Rebuild wiring diagrams and consider a harness replacement as well: http://docrebuild.com/oosoez/8962101.html
At a minimum check out the threads on fuses on here (search for "C1 fuse points') and do what is indicated - with butchered up, old wiring in these lightly fused cars you have a real fire hazard.
Somebody has rerouted turn signal and brake alarm power into the 'running' circuit of the car instead of where they should be so as to operate with key on, motor off.
So the ignition switch was wired wrong in our 58- a pink wire was on the BAT post and the ACC post was vacant. Still the car started 2 days ago.
Yesterday when i tried to start it i got a click from the solenoid then nothing else. I found the battery was dead, charged it, turned the key and nothing, no click from the solenoid, nothing. The headlights don't even come on. So battery is charged, checked the cables to it-they're good yet the car has absolutley no power.
So where to start ?
Whats best way to test ignition switch - turn key to ON position and check for 12 volts at both sides of ballast resistor ? Do i have to disconnect something from the coil before doing this ?
Whats best way to check solenoid ?
The ignition switch- it does not/wll not tighten down in the dash- when you turn the key the entire switch rotates. The tumbler will even turn to all positions when the key isn't even in - talk about an easy car to steal. I suspect the tumbler was left in the ON position after we ran the car 2 days ago and that killed the battery- or maybe the ignition switch being wired wrong caused that ? Anyway I look forward to the guidance you guys are always so helpful with.
I suppose the points may also be fried if the ignition switch was left powered on ?
Fried points, hung starter and even a loosey-goosey ignition switch do not explain the loss of headlights...you've got a bunch of things going on it would seem...
What does your dash ammeter do when you pull the switch to turn on the headlights ?
06-06-2015, 05:37 PM
Two pink leads on 1962 ignition switch?
