Ignition switch in my 61 won't stop starting!
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Ignition switch in my 61 won't stop starting!
So when I go to start the car the starter engages as normal but when I turn the key to on,off, or lock it keeps running the starter. Lucky the engine hasn't started yet. I read somewhere else that it could be the starter solenoid so I replaced it but no change. I've had to run out and disconnect the battery cutoff to stop the starter. Could the ignition switch be worn out?? I don't know what else it could be......
#2
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This sounds like the wiring for the ballast resistor bypass (small outboard terminal on starter solenoid) is connected to the solenoid energizing terminal (small inboard terminal on solenoid). The symptom of the starter turning on and staying on certainly fits.
So, my suggestion is to verify the wiring is correct. Inboard solenoid terminal should have only a purple wire attached. Outboard solenoid terminal should have only a green wire attached.
Jim
So, my suggestion is to verify the wiring is correct. Inboard solenoid terminal should have only a purple wire attached. Outboard solenoid terminal should have only a green wire attached.
Jim
#3
Team Owner
Does the starter EVER disengage - when you disconnect the battery did the solenoid retract ? Sometimes worn, hooked gears on the flywheel can delay the starter retracting from the flywheel briefly but your problem may well be what Jim mentions above. IF he is right the starter should retract when you disconnect the battery.
#4
Safety Car
I would disconnect the engine harness SOL Purple wire at the solenoid and run a #12G +12v jumper to that SOL terminal. If it releases the starter drive after disconnect......Then the Ignition switch is likely defective.
If so, chances are that internally the IGN terminal is shorted to the SOL terminal.
If so, chances are that internally the IGN terminal is shorted to the SOL terminal.
#5
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I would disconnect the engine harness SOL Purple wire at the solenoid and run a #12G +12v jumper to that SOL terminal. If it releases the starter drive after disconnect......Then the Ignition switch is likely defective.
If so, chances are that internally the IGN terminal is shorted to the SOL terminal.
If so, chances are that internally the IGN terminal is shorted to the SOL terminal.
#6
Safety Car
Or if he has a test light or a voltmeter, and maybe a helper, connect the tester to the disconnected Purple wire at the solenoid area of the engine harness, turn IGN switch to RUN and see if voltage there, or if there when OFF or LOCK.
....or at the back of the IGN switch.
Regardless, several ways to test the problem. He just needs the right tester to do it.
He might have a short between the Engine Harness Black Feed and the Purple as a thought too, since he says it happens in OFF or Lock. Something bad going on.
Hmmm, maybe the wiper cables have sliced through the harness under the dash???? That'd be possible.
Rich
....or at the back of the IGN switch.
Regardless, several ways to test the problem. He just needs the right tester to do it.
He might have a short between the Engine Harness Black Feed and the Purple as a thought too, since he says it happens in OFF or Lock. Something bad going on.
Hmmm, maybe the wiper cables have sliced through the harness under the dash???? That'd be possible.
Rich
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I did replace the solenoid and made sure my wiring was put back correctly. It doesn't do this every time I try to start it but recently it seems that way. Sometimes if I wiggle the key it will stop, other times if I keep turning the key back and forth it will stop, lately though this hasn't been working. I think you've helped me decide the switch is just worn out, I'll order a new one and go from there. Thanks
#8
Intermediate
Thread Starter
So back to square one on this, put the new ignition switch on tonight and still the same problem. I checked the wiring on the solenoid, green wire outboard but yellow wire inboard. Looking more closely at the wiring from the ignition switch it appears this has been rewired at some point. This starting problem has been ongoing for about the past 2 years but only on occasion, probably once every 50 starts and was easily stopped by wiggling the switch back and forth. I just thought the switch was sticking for age. Now it does it every time I try to start the car. Could it be the Starter? Maybe I need to replace the ignition harness? I can't see any part of the harness from the switch as it wrapped in electrical tape down to the starter. I'm at a loss for the next step to take.
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It can't be the starter - it's only doing what it's told to do!
You must have a short between the 'run' and 'start' leads.. but not, apparently, in the switch itself.
I think you're going to need to unwrap that tape!
You can use a multi-meter to confirm that the leads are shorted.
[EDIT: I just re-read that it happens in OFF and LOCK as well... that's a head-scratcher!]
You must have a short between the 'run' and 'start' leads.. but not, apparently, in the switch itself.
I think you're going to need to unwrap that tape!
You can use a multi-meter to confirm that the leads are shorted.
[EDIT: I just re-read that it happens in OFF and LOCK as well... that's a head-scratcher!]
Last edited by SDVette; 06-12-2015 at 12:08 AM.
#10
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Do you own a test light or voltmeter?
#11
Racer
My 60 did this exact same thing last year with a newly installed "restored date correct" starter that used a cheap import solenoid. I replaced the entire starter with a local NAPA store rebuilt unit and all is well. I put the "Restored" original under the bench. The problem was within the starter solenoid. When it was energized when I turned the key it would not release when the key was released after the engine started. If I rapped on it with a block of wood the solenoid would dis-engage.
Don
Don
Last edited by wraplock; 06-12-2015 at 08:21 AM.
#12
Safety Car
He changed the solenoid. It's possible the new one is bad, but doubtful IMO.
He needs to pull the harness from the solenoid and test it as several have suggested. Mike, I don't think he has test equipment. He needs that to help find his problem
Which I think now, due to the recent statement.....
"I checked the wiring on the solenoid, green wire outboard but yellow wire inboard. Looking more closely at the wiring from the ignition switch it appears this has been rewired at some point."
db59, If the inboard wire on the solenoid is Yellow, someone was definitely in there and spliced it into the original Purple wire. If their Yellow spliced wire is not soldered, it's likely arcing and melting, and /or it's the wrong gauge wire. You probably have a intermittent short in there. Not good.
I would highly recommend that you do some testing, and WHEN you find the true marginal condition of the Engine Harness, that you replace it with a new Harness. About $80 worth of new wiring may save your car from a dreadful problem. I'd also recommend some form of circuit protection for the main feed(#12G Black +12V) as well.
===
He needs to pull the harness from the solenoid and test it as several have suggested. Mike, I don't think he has test equipment. He needs that to help find his problem
Which I think now, due to the recent statement.....
"I checked the wiring on the solenoid, green wire outboard but yellow wire inboard. Looking more closely at the wiring from the ignition switch it appears this has been rewired at some point."
db59, If the inboard wire on the solenoid is Yellow, someone was definitely in there and spliced it into the original Purple wire. If their Yellow spliced wire is not soldered, it's likely arcing and melting, and /or it's the wrong gauge wire. You probably have a intermittent short in there. Not good.
I would highly recommend that you do some testing, and WHEN you find the true marginal condition of the Engine Harness, that you replace it with a new Harness. About $80 worth of new wiring may save your car from a dreadful problem. I'd also recommend some form of circuit protection for the main feed(#12G Black +12V) as well.
===
#13
Racer
[QUOTE=rich5962;1589824546]He changed the solenoid. It's possible the new one is bad, but doubtful IMO.
Yes I did see where he changed his solenoid before I posted. I was just relating my personal experience to the same issue.
Don
Yes I did see where he changed his solenoid before I posted. I was just relating my personal experience to the same issue.
Don
#14
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[QUOTE=wraplock;1589825660]
I've had two solenoids stick like that before but they were old, used ones. The contacts were worn and burnt.
The OP needs to get a test light and start doing some checking. If it's not the switch and not the solenoid, I can't imagine what the problem is unless the symptoms aren't being described accurately.
The OP needs to get a test light and start doing some checking. If it's not the switch and not the solenoid, I can't imagine what the problem is unless the symptoms aren't being described accurately.
#15
Team Owner
12V is still getting supplied
He needs to find out whether that is due to his switch being wired wrong or the starter. He needs to just start from scratch on the wiring if it isn't a flaw or malfunction of the switch!
#16
Team Owner
I still haven't seen an answer to my post #3...
#18
Intermediate
Thread Starter
He changed the solenoid. It's possible the new one is bad, but doubtful IMO.
He needs to pull the harness from the solenoid and test it as several have suggested. Mike, I don't think he has test equipment. He needs that to help find his problem
Which I think now, due to the recent statement.....
"I checked the wiring on the solenoid, green wire outboard but yellow wire inboard. Looking more closely at the wiring from the ignition switch it appears this has been rewired at some point."
db59, If the inboard wire on the solenoid is Yellow, someone was definitely in there and spliced it into the original Purple wire. If their Yellow spliced wire is not soldered, it's likely arcing and melting, and /or it's the wrong gauge wire. You probably have a intermittent short in there. Not good.
I would highly recommend that you do some testing, and WHEN you find the true marginal condition of the Engine Harness, that you replace it with a new Harness. About $80 worth of new wiring may save your car from a dreadful problem. I'd also recommend some form of circuit protection for the main feed(#12G Black +12V) as well.
===
He needs to pull the harness from the solenoid and test it as several have suggested. Mike, I don't think he has test equipment. He needs that to help find his problem
Which I think now, due to the recent statement.....
"I checked the wiring on the solenoid, green wire outboard but yellow wire inboard. Looking more closely at the wiring from the ignition switch it appears this has been rewired at some point."
db59, If the inboard wire on the solenoid is Yellow, someone was definitely in there and spliced it into the original Purple wire. If their Yellow spliced wire is not soldered, it's likely arcing and melting, and /or it's the wrong gauge wire. You probably have a intermittent short in there. Not good.
I would highly recommend that you do some testing, and WHEN you find the true marginal condition of the Engine Harness, that you replace it with a new Harness. About $80 worth of new wiring may save your car from a dreadful problem. I'd also recommend some form of circuit protection for the main feed(#12G Black +12V) as well.
===
#19
Intermediate
Thread Starter
#20
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I don't think the wiring is wrong, I've had the car for over 3 years and haven't messed with this system until now. Obviously something changed but it isn't the wires being moved, the problem started before I got my hands in it. Frustrating.........