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I'm electrically challenged and just getting car fully on road. It has been driven occasionally. Since purchased in 1982, brake lights have been erratic. Never sure when worked. All other lights work except back up which have never worked either but did not feel that to be an urgent issue. Replaced brake switch many times and is OK at time of replacement. Switch replaced with Delco part. Continuity tested bad switches out of car and found erratic operation. Car has been driven about 1200 miles with this condition.
In searching the Forum noticed comments about a capacitor connected at switch terminals. I have a capacitor under there but not connected to anything. Should it be? I have a very original 64 that does not have a capacitor but unsure if systems are the same.
The capacitor is not necessary for operation. It filters the pop out of the am radio reception when you push brake pedal.
You could have bad brake light switch, or bad contacts inside the turn signal switch. The brake voltage passes through the turn signal so it can be interrupted and the flasher voltage inserted to that side when you turn on the turn signal. If the contacts are not solid in the turn signal you will get intermittent or no brake lights. When they don't work, measure the white wire coming out of the brake light switch, if it has 12v the switch is good and you need to move on to either the connector for the turn signal at the base of the column or the turn signal switch itself.
The capacitor is not necessary for operation. It filters the pop out of the am radio reception when you push brake pedal.
You could have bad brake light switch, or bad contacts inside the turn signal switch. The brake voltage passes through the turn signal so it can be interrupted and the flasher voltage inserted to that side when you turn on the turn signal. If the contacts are not solid in the turn signal you will get intermittent or no brake lights. When they don't work, measure the white wire coming out of the brake light switch, if it has 12v the switch is good and you need to move on to either the connector for the turn signal at the base of the column or the turn signal switch itself.
Thank you. Will check it out tomorrow. Have to be up at 5 for work so time to find my pillow.
I really hate electrical issues too!!
I had a very similar issue with my '66 a couple of years ago. Take a look at the photo of the small metal tabs which are inside the turn signal switch on this thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-66-vert.html
I used the photo as a go-by for mine, and one of the tabs was touching in the wrong place in mine...I was able to use a small pick and move them back into the correct line and my brake lights have been good ever since. Hope this helps a bit!
I really hate electrical issues too!!
I had a very similar issue with my '66 a couple of years ago. Take a look at the photo of the small metal tabs which are inside the turn signal switch on this thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-66-vert.html
I used the photo as a go-by for mine, and one of the tabs was touching in the wrong place in mine...I was able to use a small pick and move them back into the correct line and my brake lights have been good ever since. Hope this helps a bit!
Hey guys, would these possible problems lead to premature brake switch problems? When removing problem switch and testing out of car, continuity was not always there. Continuity was erratic
Hey guys, would these possible problems lead to premature brake switch problems? When removing problem switch and testing out of car, continuity was not always there. Continuity was erratic
Hey guys, would these possible problems lead to premature brake switch problems? When removing problem switch and testing out of car, continuity was not always there. Continuity was erratic
Ed, if the switch continuity is erratic, then the switch should be replaced. Causes could be anything from a poorly manufactured switch to the switch being exposed to something causing internal corrosion, such as water or extreme humidity. I would open up the old switch to try to determine the cause of it's erratic functioning however when you have time.
Opening up the switch should point you in the right direction. If you do open it up, post some pictures and someone here will surely recognize the cause.
Ed, if the switch continuity is erratic, then the switch should be replaced. Causes could be anything from a poorly manufactured switch to the switch being exposed to something causing internal corrosion, such as water or extreme humidity. I would open up the old switch to try to determine the cause of it's erratic functioning however when you have time.
Opening up the switch should point you in the right direction. If you do open it up, post some pictures and someone here will surely recognize the cause.
Good luck... GUSTO
Over the years I've replaced malfunctioning switches with new everytime. Sometimes with a Delco part, also tried Standard. Disassembled several but nothing odd, Very simple mechanism. I'll post a pic of the current problem Delco switch following removal and disassembly.
I'm back. Serious life stuff can really disrupt the fun life stuff!
During the time gap I frequently depressed the brake without car running and had no brake lights. After removing the Delco switch from the car it continuity tested fine. I replaced the switch with a new Delco. Set up a dash monitor light connected to the new switch. Drove about 10 stop-n-go miles lights OK. I'll leave monitor light in and hopefully see what event leads to switch failure. However in the past I got inconsistent results when testing a bad switch out of the car. As requested photos of the switch I removed are included. Please note: switch was continuity testing OK when disassembled. Contacts appear clean, slight blackish mark on one side which is too small to photograph. It's a simple design. Cannot imagine what could fail. Photos below as close up as I can get. Spring removed so I can position switch while photographing.
07-05-2015, 08:42 PM
Erratic brake lights - 66
