10SMike

I went for a July 4 cruise in my '65 roadster and when I got to my destination the ign. key couldn't be turned to the off position. I drove back home and had to block the air intake to stop the engine then pull the battery cable to turn all the electrical off. I have another set of keys and it does the same thing with the other key. The key will still turn to start and springs back to on but won't turn to off. I called a locksmith and he said he could make me a new key. That's no help. Has anyone had this happen or have any suggestions?

Pilot Dan

If you can turn the key part way, I don't think it is a problem with the lock cylinder or the key. I suspect something inside the switch broke and is preventing the lock from going all the way to the off position.
Pilot Dan

Tooth Doctor

Your ignition switch may be worn out or have something broken internally. Probably need a new one, for peace of mind if nothing else.

10SMike

I agree but how do I get the switch out. You have to be able to turn the key counter clockwise to get the lock cylinder out so you can take the bezel off and get the switch out of the dash. One of the hot rod guys in town said use a grinder and grind the front of the lock cylinder until the bezel will come off. There has to be an easier way. I know if I'm going to replace the switch what difference does it make what I do the the switch.

Tooth Doctor

You may have to replace the lock cylinder as well as the switch. I would try unscrewing the bezel nut first.

Frankie the Fink

You can not unscrew the bezel to remove the switch unless the lock cylinder is removed AND that takes inserting a paper clip in the switch release hole and turning the key ALL the way to the left -- with the OP can not do. I'd soak the snot out of the switch with PB Blaster (lay some plastic on the floor board) and maybe make sure there are no burrs or other things on the key itself. Then take another shot at removing the cylinder.

Grinding off a dash component can go south really fast unless you have a firm hand and steely eyes. Double tape off EVERYTHING nearby before attempting it...

dplotkin

I think you have a hung tumbler in the cylinder that has nothing to do with the actual switch. I've had this with trunk locks and a shot of WD40 or PB Blaster fixed it immediately.


Get a can with that red straw, protect the carpet/seats & shoot it in-between the key & the lock opening. Then work & jiggle the key back and forth. A bad key duplication can also cause this. (Bad cut, burrs, etc.,)


Dan

10SMike

I've tried WD-40 but I used it sparingly. I'll try hitting it with a good soaking. I've checked the keys and they look clean.

I don't want to grind but if that's what it takes then I may have it done. For now I'll try some knock'er loose. It's what I have I don't have PB Blaster. I'll let it set over night.

10SMike

Dan and Frankie,

Good call. Hit it with knock'er loose and let it sit over night. More this morning and then just jiggled the snot out of the key and it finally broke loose. So it was probably a hung tumbler. Now I need to get the lock cylinder out. I put a piece of wire in the hole with the ign. in accessories and tried turning ccw. Didn't budge. So I thought maybe it was supposed to be in the off position. The switch turns to acc. but won't go past there. When I put the wire in the hold should I feel a spring pressure or it drop into a hole or ???? I'm not feeling anything. It just hits something solid and nothing changes while I'm turning. So I hit it with some more knock'er loose and came to post this waiting for replies.

Thanks for your help.

Mike

Frankie the Fink

Yes. you need to put the key in and insert the paper clip in the hole and fish around a little for the sweet spot where you feel the spring plunger depress and then turn the key CCW...

dplotkin

I love it when I'm right...because I can never get away with it on my wife & kids without blowback.


Now, do what Frankie says and REPLACE the cylinder. A locksmith should be able to set a replacement to your existing key.


People forget that 50+ year old lock cylinders wear out-were never designed to last 50 years any more than big block engines were, but that is another useless and endless debate.....


Dan

Bill Pilon

It sounds like the retainer over the wafer springs is coming loose,you can tap it back down and re stake it, in order to re key it that retainer has to be removed to gain access to the wafers this is a fairly common problem with the old Briggs and Stratton (GM sidebar) locks.


Bill

10SMike

Update ---

I've been trying to find the sweet spot like Frankie said but I'm not having much luck. I can't find anything that feels like it is depressing (except this whole thing is depressing) when I push the paperclip into the hole. I guess patience is the key word. I'm done for this evening. I'll post tomorrow. Thanks again for your help.

JohnZ

Hold off on the paper clip until you have the key turned as far to the left as it will go - once there, THEN insert the paper clip, and you'll find the spring-loaded plunger; push it in and turn the key further to the left and the lock cylinder will pop right out.

Frankie the Fink

A little light video viewing for tomorrow:

hderr

This is the brass pin mentioned above. Key in, ccw, paper clip, gentle ccw, pull out. The second pic shows the rectangular clip that needs to be staked down. I took the opportunity to get the key rekeyed to match doors. Good luck.

10SMike

I HAVE THE LOCK CYLINDER OUT!!!!

Thanks everyone for your help. The video and the pictures really helped. I've ordered a new lock cylinder so maybe by the time it stops raining here I've have the car back on the road.

Thanks again to all.

Mike

65GGvert

Hopefully, since you ordered the lock cylinder that's where your problem is. I am a little suspicious of the electrical contacts. Possibly a broken part is blocking the turning to acc intermittently. If you get the new cylinder in and experience it again, you'll know for sure. Good luck.

10SMike

I thought that might be a possibility since we are talking about an old car. None of the Corvette shops I looked at had a switch assemble for a 1965 listed but they did have the cylinder. I just thought I'd take a chance. I'm hoping for the best. I'll post what happens when I get the new cylinder in.

65GGvert

Sorry, I mixed your thread up with the guy who couldn't get the key to turn to ACC. Do post back what you find for future reference.