C1 & C2 Corvettes General C1 Corvette & C2 Corvette Discussion, Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Project Builds, Restorations

Bad starter solenoid on my '66?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-12-2015, 01:54 AM
  #1  
big block ken
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
 
big block ken's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Mount Holly, NJ
Posts: 823
Received 230 Likes on 105 Posts
2021 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified

Default Bad starter solenoid on my '66?

I get a "grind me a pound" sound on start up sometimes (like missing a shift). Then on the next try, it starts fine with no unusual noise. I replaced the starter solenoid last year with a non GM part. Could this be the solenoid not throwing the starter drive gear out properly? The starter drive itself? Or that fact that I don't have any shims used. It's a 4 speed car and bolts up into the big block (not bell housing).

By coincidence, today, I had a no-power condition when I shut down and tried to re-start (no horn or anything). I checked under the hood, everything seemed fine, and then it started. Weird. I have one of those negative battery terminal shut off *****, used on a 1 year old (expensive!) Delco repro battery, which is always on trickle charge and had 13 volts at the time. I did notice that the black ground wire to the starter bolt (for the fan and wipers?) is hard and brittle from almost 50 years of heat. I was running the heater motor on high just prior to this (cooling system flush and fill). So all of this combined is suspicious.

By the way, I did find this great thread that I'll use to check things out with tomorrow:https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nvertable.html along with some excellent pics and info posted by Frankie.
Old 07-12-2015, 07:38 AM
  #2  
Frankie the Fink
Team Owner

 
Frankie the Fink's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,062
Received 7,082 Likes on 4,736 Posts
Army

Default

Hmmm... I don't see any posts by me in that thread....but JohnZ's post #4 in that thread prob nails down your 'no power' symptoms.

As to the grinding:

I had that identical issue on my '61....rebuilt the starter; played with some other things too. It never got solved until (when I was installing the 5 speed Tremec) we sent the flywheel out to get resurfaced and a new ring gear. It seems just the little bit of wear on the teeth would make the starter drive "miss" about one out of every 15 or so starts and make that clash.

Probably something you didn't want to hear
Attached Images   

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 07-12-2015 at 07:42 AM.
Old 07-12-2015, 08:31 AM
  #3  
Donald #31176
Melting Slicks
 
Donald #31176's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 0
Received 163 Likes on 143 Posts

Default

One other cause of no power is the use of the green **** battery disconnect switch. After sometime the **** pits and the connection will become marginal. Use a Wirth knife blade switch.
Old 07-12-2015, 08:35 AM
  #4  
Frankie the Fink
Team Owner

 
Frankie the Fink's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,062
Received 7,082 Likes on 4,736 Posts
Army

Default

Originally Posted by Donald #31176
One other cause of no power is the use of the green **** battery disconnect switch. After sometime the **** pits and the connection will become marginal. Use a Wirth knife blade switch.
Oh boy - now you've done it. The GKZ (Green **** Zealots) will be out in force on a Sunday morning...

I had two of them and intermittent "no power" issues with both (and no they weren't cheap Chinese versions); over time I had to tighten them down harder and harder to the point I couldn't loosen them without pliers. Off they came and have knife switches in both cars now.
Old 07-12-2015, 09:09 AM
  #5  
MikeM
Team Owner
 
MikeM's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
Received 1,843 Likes on 1,398 Posts

Default

The starter grinding? I would try a new starter drive and if that didn't fix it, it might be/could be the ring gear. I suppose it could also be a bad contact in the solenoid that isn't spinning the starter motor up in a timely manner.

Green ****? I used a cheap Chinese **** for about three years because I had a battery mysteriously draining overnight sometimes. I left it on the car until I finally got around to fixing the real issue and then threw the thing away. Once or twice, the contact got burnt/pitted. I just took it off and wiped it on concrete and put it back on and it worked. Pretty good for theft deterrence. Otherwise, you just wear out your hood release cable raising the hood every time you stop and start the car. Then you have other troubles.
Old 07-13-2015, 08:53 AM
  #6  
stellar
Racer
 
stellar's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2009
Location: Pgh. Pa.
Posts: 418
Received 36 Likes on 26 Posts

Default

X2 with Frankie. Sounds like a ring gear with a bad spot. Due to engine compression the ring gear will usuall stop in approximatley the same spots most of the time. Usually like 3 different spots. So it is kind of like playing russian roulette. So if you pull the trigger when it is on the bad spot something bad happens.
Old 07-13-2015, 02:36 PM
  #7  
65 vette dude
Melting Slicks
 
65 vette dude's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2007
Location: cooper city florida
Posts: 3,461
Received 17 Likes on 16 Posts

Default

I had that same problem......I added shims to the starter.......problem solved. If the problem goes on for too long, the grinding will ruin the flywheel ring gear, and then you have a big job to replace the ring gear.
Old 07-13-2015, 04:35 PM
  #8  
big block ken
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
 
big block ken's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Mount Holly, NJ
Posts: 823
Received 230 Likes on 105 Posts
2021 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified

Default

I found this excellent thread on the green **** switch- https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ct-switch.html

I'm going to pull mine. But I tried the knife switch shown, and it would hit the heater box lead. Is there one with the knife blade pivoting on the left, swinging down to the right? That would fit (maybe because I have a big block?) I also see on the 3rd page, someone shows a battery terminal lead with a lever on the nut. Anyone have experience with this and know where to get it?

As far as the starter grind, I'll pull the inspection cover on the bell housing and check out the ring gear. Then try to shim the starter accordingly. I guess I can rule out the starter solenoid.
Old 07-13-2015, 05:34 PM
  #9  
MikeM
Team Owner
 
MikeM's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
Received 1,843 Likes on 1,398 Posts

Default

I would ask myself why I even needed a cutoff switch?

Get notified of new replies

To Bad starter solenoid on my '66?




Quick Reply: Bad starter solenoid on my '66?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:34 AM.