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I just got my first C1 on the road

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Old 07-30-2015, 07:03 PM
  #21  
davekp78
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Originally Posted by ragtop00
Well at lunch I went out and got an air powered grease gun, flex hose, std and right angle fittings, oil and filter, and diff fluid. I can't wait to dig in... Steering box, suspension grease fittings, rear end fluid and oil change.Mike
I thought I'd be smart and change the diff fluid to a modern synthetic. Now I have a leaking gasket.
Old 07-30-2015, 08:20 PM
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63redvette
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Originally Posted by davekp78
I thought I'd be smart and change the diff fluid to a modern synthetic. Now I have a leaking gasket.
ouch been there done that. went right back to the dinosaur fluid after my syn fluid ate my rear seal in my 66 mustang in 2000. Wont even consider it for my 63 C2 conv.
Old 07-30-2015, 08:43 PM
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ptjsk
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Our '62 has always been fairly comfortable while driving.

I never have thought it too rough.

Obviously, like others have already stated, it doesn't handle like a newer updated performance car, but it's still a blast to drive!
Old 07-31-2015, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by davekp78
I thought I'd be smart and change the diff fluid to a modern synthetic. Now I have a leaking gasket.
Live and learn. Leave synthetics out of the oil pan and tranny too.
Old 07-31-2015, 12:47 AM
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Randy G.
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
...the all drum brakes can get exciting on panic stops....best to have the lane beside you empty when doing so....
Ain't that the truth!

Old 07-31-2015, 06:43 AM
  #26  
Frankie the Fink
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Never heard of synthetics "eating gaskets". One of my first tasks on my '63 was to swap in synthetics in the leaking muncie and differential after gasket changes....about 3 years ago and still leak free. And the change actually cleared up a synchro clash when downshifting from 2-3 quickly...
Old 07-31-2015, 09:10 AM
  #27  
ragtop00
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Between work and out to dinner I had time to change the diff fluid. standard 75-90 gear lube. Also put new valve covers on with a PCV set up.
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Old 07-31-2015, 11:14 AM
  #28  
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Synthetic lubes don't eat gaskets. But they do leak a lot more if you have imperfect sealing areas. This is due to the make-up of the oil. The polymer strands are all the same size. Imagine a room with nothing but marbles on the floor, all the same size. That's synthetic oil....with identical symetrical polymer strands. Imagine a room with marbles, bb's, baseballs, basketballs, golfballs, etc. on the floor. That's regular oil. The polymer strands vary. That's why dino oil is less prone to leak. It doesn't flow as well. That said, synthetic oil is NOT recommended for Muncie or T-10 transmissions due to leakage issues and the possiblility of over-slick synchro rings. If it works for you, great, but research tends to tell us to avoid synthetic oils in these old cars....at least in the gearboxes and rear ends. I'm a big fan of synthetic oils in my newer stuff.
Old 07-31-2015, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ragtop00
Between work and out to dinner I had time to change the diff fluid. standard 75-90 gear lube. Also put new valve covers on with a PCV set up.
Gee, i dunno.....I think I see a speck of dirt there on that thing. i'd be embarrassed if I was you.



Kidding....omg, that's friggen gorgous!
Old 08-01-2015, 09:05 AM
  #30  
davekp78
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Originally Posted by davekp78
I thought I'd be smart and change the diff fluid to a modern synthetic. Now I have a leaking gasket.
Since I'll be pulling the axles to replace the diff gasket, I guess I should replace the outer seals as well. Are these the "Rear end outer axle housing gaskets" as in page 137 of the Corvette Central catalog? P/n 581017.
Old 08-01-2015, 10:05 AM
  #31  
abdo
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
I drive a stock '61 and a stock '63 on the same day MANY days. They each have their idiosyncrasies. The C1s are primitive....straight-line driving is as good as many classics and the suspension is adequate. Its a pig in fast turns even with radials. The '63 is more refined, doesn't really ride all that much better but handles sweetly -- the all drum brakes can get exciting on panic stops....best to have the lane beside you empty when doing so....
I would certainly agree Frank. My two C1s handle OK considering their ancient technology. But a few years ago my boss at the time asked me to test drive a '64 Corvette he was considering buying. I have to admit the difference was significant. He bought it and still has it I believe. The independent rear suspension was quite an improvement IMO.
Old 08-26-2015, 02:02 PM
  #32  
xkeots
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Originally Posted by 1955 copper
Real men drive C1's not those wimpy C2's having power everything that OLD men drive
My 63 SWC is 4spd, manual brakes and steering. Same in that Dept. Nice to have a 62 convertible when it is 95 outside. the 63 coupe is an oven.

Last edited by xkeots; 08-26-2015 at 02:10 PM. Reason: incomplete
Old 08-26-2015, 02:05 PM
  #33  
xkeots
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Originally Posted by abdo
I would certainly agree Frank. My two C1s handle OK considering their ancient technology. But a few years ago my boss at the time asked me to test drive a '64 Corvette he was considering buying. I have to admit the difference was significant. He bought it and still has it I believe. The independent rear suspension was quite an improvement IMO.
That's what I mean. I guess the IRS makes a big difference in the ride. I am used to my 63. I found out by taking the hard top off, the rattles stopped. It was a body off back in 06, done well. Then when I drive my C3 another big improvement. I can't wait till I get a C7 next year.
Old 08-26-2015, 02:08 PM
  #34  
xkeots
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Originally Posted by Randy G.
Ain't that the truth!

That happened last week in my 63 SWC. Person cut me off and from a panic stop I went sideways missing the car that cut me off by a hair. I put front discs on my 67 GTO Convertible, big difference.
Jack
62 C1
63 SWC C2
77 L-82 C3
Old 08-26-2015, 02:14 PM
  #35  
xkeots
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Originally Posted by ChattanoogaJSB
Depends on how bad yours is

Is it a frame off restoration or a car with a million miles and neglect you got back up and running for a preliminary road test? What have you done?
I posted too early! Hard top off and the car is quiet. I was missing a rear top bolt. Better now but still quieter with no top. The rear makes it ride hard, I just found that out. My 63 has an IRS, big difference. It is a nice older frame off.
Jack
Old 08-27-2015, 08:03 AM
  #36  
SIXTYTWO
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Originally Posted by 59 navy
I took my 59 to an old school mechanic for an alignment (no electronics that can move out of focus) Lubed and tightened anything that could rattle. This is a great car for cruising. Plenty of power for me (283 Hyd with two Carters) 59 navy
That's one nice 59. Prettier than most girls
Old 08-27-2015, 08:19 AM
  #37  
Frankie the Fink
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A stock C1 has been described as a 'fast tractor' and that's prob not far off. Its really late '40s steering and suspension technology so it can be a handful. I drove my '61 around Sebring on a sanctioned 'touring lap' and hit triple digit speeds twice -- my life flashed before my eyes and I saw a bright light beckoning so I slowed down. The car was a handful to put it mildly.

The '61 is like -- well, like driving a real car, predictable, well-behaved and you don't have to be 100% focused on operating it. BTW, $1,300 and about 15-20 hours of work will air condition a '63 and will make it even MORE pleasurable to drive...

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Old 06-27-2016, 08:41 PM
  #38  
xkeots
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Originally Posted by xkeots
Are all C1's so hard, bouncy and rattling cars?
Is it Just the nature of the beast?

Thanks
Jack
1962 C1
PS: after using it a while, my accelerator linkage is sticking.
Any help here?
Thanks
Jax
Old 06-27-2016, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by leif.anderson93
And, don't forget, this IS a sports car not a luxury yacht. A good set of gas shocks along with all the other recommendations will help to smooth it out, as well.
Yes, with a frame and suspension based on a 1950 Chev pickup truck
Old 06-27-2016, 10:30 PM
  #40  
Westlotorn
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Originally Posted by xkeots
PS: after using it a while, my accelerator linkage is sticking.
Any help here?
Thanks
Jax
Make sure the carpet is not grabbing your gas pedal then trace all the linkage from the pedal to the carb searching for a hang up.
Is your return spring in place and still in good shape?



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