Gas Pedal on '63
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Gas Pedal on '63
Now I feel like rich5962....a simple job turns in to a big question mark.
Refurbishing some REALLY nit-picking things on the car so I order lots of correct nuts, bolts, expansion tank cap, etc. I take up the gas pedal and find there is NO wooden spacer block under it as shown in the AIM and the Philip's head screws are a good bit shorter than the repros I just got - they prob wouldn't even bite if the spacer was there. So a few questions:
1) Is the spacer supposed to be there ? If so, on all SWC configurations - this isn't one of those VIN range things right ? Like hood blocks ?
2) Does the spacer go under the carpet ? That is what I think but the AIM is a little fuzzy on that.
3) IF I USE THE SPACER than the end of the metal gas pedal rod will
start out (gas pedal NOT depressed) at the extreme inboard lower edge of the nylon slider on the back of the pedal....it JUST makes it on enough to work smoothly...can anybody check their 63 for this?
4) Does my gas pedal look correct based on #3 above ? You can see the issue with the downrod in the last picture...
Refurbishing some REALLY nit-picking things on the car so I order lots of correct nuts, bolts, expansion tank cap, etc. I take up the gas pedal and find there is NO wooden spacer block under it as shown in the AIM and the Philip's head screws are a good bit shorter than the repros I just got - they prob wouldn't even bite if the spacer was there. So a few questions:
1) Is the spacer supposed to be there ? If so, on all SWC configurations - this isn't one of those VIN range things right ? Like hood blocks ?
2) Does the spacer go under the carpet ? That is what I think but the AIM is a little fuzzy on that.
3) IF I USE THE SPACER than the end of the metal gas pedal rod will
start out (gas pedal NOT depressed) at the extreme inboard lower edge of the nylon slider on the back of the pedal....it JUST makes it on enough to work smoothly...can anybody check their 63 for this?
4) Does my gas pedal look correct based on #3 above ? You can see the issue with the downrod in the last picture...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 07-22-2015 at 11:59 AM.
#2
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C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
I'm not bold enough to say that spacer shouldn't be there. I can say, though, that my '63 roadster doesn't have one and that I don't remember one on my SWC from decades ago.
#3
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Item #11 in this '63 AIM page....and on second look, it may be sitting ON TOP of the carpet...
Of course, like knock off wheels it doesn't mean it made it into production in '63
I don't have the spacer either and my carpet is almost certainly original and the shorter screws for the gas pedal look original too.
So now, I don't know what is up....
Of course, like knock off wheels it doesn't mean it made it into production in '63
I don't have the spacer either and my carpet is almost certainly original and the shorter screws for the gas pedal look original too.
So now, I don't know what is up....
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 07-22-2015 at 12:07 PM.
#5
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Thanks!
I'm thinking NO SPACER. There is nothing in Noland Adams C2 Tech Ref Guide on this topic, and, although the AIM shows the spacer, the latest JG states the accelerator pedal is mounted with two 1" cadmium bolts (which is what mine had) -- if you go by that there can NOT be a spacer because the bolts won't be long enough to even get started. I'm not using the spacer and will keep my old bolts I'm thinking.
I'm thinking NO SPACER. There is nothing in Noland Adams C2 Tech Ref Guide on this topic, and, although the AIM shows the spacer, the latest JG states the accelerator pedal is mounted with two 1" cadmium bolts (which is what mine had) -- if you go by that there can NOT be a spacer because the bolts won't be long enough to even get started. I'm not using the spacer and will keep my old bolts I'm thinking.
#6
Race Director
Is that something that judges would even look at - make you pull up the carpet to check? What does the NCRS '63 judging guide say about this? Or are you just compulsive?
I'm thinking this might fall under the category of "if it ain't broke don't fix it..."
I'm thinking this might fall under the category of "if it ain't broke don't fix it..."
#7
Team Owner
Thread Starter
As I stated the JG calls for 1" cad bolts in the pedal (no mention of a spacer)....meaning they won't be long enough for the spacer so I ain't using it.... Just interesting its shown in the AIM...
Don't care if the judges never see it; I just want the gas pedal working right with correct parts.
Don't care if the judges never see it; I just want the gas pedal working right with correct parts.
#8
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Location: Greenville, Indiana
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I don't see any approval signatures on that drawing. Just a drawing. Maybe just as well have been a Dennis the Menace cartoon.
#9
Race Director
As I stated the JG calls for 1" cad bolts in the pedal (no mention of a spacer)....meaning they won't be long enough for the spacer so I ain't using it.... Just interesting its shown in the AIM...
Don't care if the judges never see it; I just want the gas pedal working right with correct parts.
Don't care if the judges never see it; I just want the gas pedal working right with correct parts.
Bless you for being so detail oriented!
PS - sorry, I missed your reference to the JG in post #5.
Last edited by tuxnharley; 07-22-2015 at 01:58 PM. Reason: addl comment
#10
Team Owner
Thread Starter
The car also worked great when I got it with an incorrect Edlebrock manifold and AFB carb on it... It would prob work with an Isuzu motor in it too... But I don't live in Cuba.
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fjd (02-07-2020)
#11
Race Director
So you're gonna remove the Vintage Air and Dynomat in the quest for period correctness?
#12
Race Director
Makes sense, and I do understand. Not that my car will ever be judged - or be as close to correct as yours is - but I do love my Tremec 5 spd!
#13
Melting Slicks
I can go out and check my car. Built May 15 or 18 I forget which.
#14
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Well - in editing my prior response to you tux I fat-fingered it into oblivion....
Not retyping all that either....but you get the idea...
Not retyping all that either....but you get the idea...
#15
Team Owner
Thread Starter
#16
To the best of my knowledge 63's did not use the spacer. The rod changed in 64 so that may be when the spacer started. Is the bolt length exactly 1"?
Question for you, if you go under the hood of your 63 and unhook the rod from the carburetor and move the lever (at the firewall) to the WOT position does the bump on the lever hit the firewall before the lever stops. On my November 1962 built coupe, the lever hits the firewall at the angle where the rod/lever bolt together and does not travel far enough to contact the firewall at the little camel hump on the lever.
I am thinking the nut plate was riveted on the firewall off a bit causing interference at this point and not letting the lever travel it's full motion to the firewall stop.
Anybody else encounter this with there 63, all parts, rod, lever, etc. are correct 63 parts. I have never been able too figure this out just that maybe the nut plate is riveted off some. As a result the gas pedal sits just a bit higher than feels comfortable.
Question for you, if you go under the hood of your 63 and unhook the rod from the carburetor and move the lever (at the firewall) to the WOT position does the bump on the lever hit the firewall before the lever stops. On my November 1962 built coupe, the lever hits the firewall at the angle where the rod/lever bolt together and does not travel far enough to contact the firewall at the little camel hump on the lever.
I am thinking the nut plate was riveted on the firewall off a bit causing interference at this point and not letting the lever travel it's full motion to the firewall stop.
Anybody else encounter this with there 63, all parts, rod, lever, etc. are correct 63 parts. I have never been able too figure this out just that maybe the nut plate is riveted off some. As a result the gas pedal sits just a bit higher than feels comfortable.
#17
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If Chevy released a spacer block for the gas pedal, it was probably tied in with 2X4 blocks for the brake and clutch for short legged drivers.
I can't find an option number for such.
I can't find an option number for such.
#18
Melting Slicks
OK Frankie, good thing I looked-no spacer. But my gas pedal is needing to be replaced as you can see. I dont think the bolts holding the pedal are right. Had a shop put in new rugs 16yrs ago and they lost all the seat bolts so I guess these are not original-seem kinda long also. Whats original? Phillips head? Where did u get the pedal?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#19
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Philip's head 1" cadmium bolts for the gas pedal....Zip has them....
They also have correct seat mount bolts (I just replaced those too)...
I'm still using the pedal that's on the car; but Zip has those too...
They also have correct seat mount bolts (I just replaced those too)...
I'm still using the pedal that's on the car; but Zip has those too...
#20
Le Mans Master
OK Frankie, good thing I looked-no spacer. But my gas pedal is needing to be replaced as you can see. I dont think the bolts holding the pedal are right. Had a shop put in new rugs 16yrs ago and they lost all the seat bolts so I guess these are not original-seem kinda long also. Whats original? Phillips head? Where did u get the pedal?
Thanks.
Thanks.
My 63, serial number under 4000, build date Nov 27, 1962, had the spacer under the pedal assembly.