1rad55

I'm currently installing Extreme Black Dynamat in all areas of the interior of my 66 coupe. Questions....should I also add some additional heat/sound product on top of the Dynamat product to insure the cabin is insulated properly (or is the Dynamat good enough)? Also, I want to make sure that I can install new carpet properly with the extra thickness of insulation products! Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Chuck

Frankie the Fink

I wouldn't go past one layer of that stuff....its a great noise deadener but don't buy into the heat insulation hype too much. The day I see these companies posting an "R" factor in their specifications is the day I become a believer. One layer will make your carpet and headliner fit correctly and do just fine...

dplotkin

Chuck-
I'm with Frankie on this. I did a Plymouth Super Stock in Dynamat, it worked well. You don't need to do the "man-thing" of saying to yourself if recommended quantity is good more must be better. It isn't. The stuff is designed to work in one layer and any more will give you grief with carpet fit and other similar issues.


Dan

DansYellow66

I'll add the 3rd vote on this. The heavy, mastic stuff (typical of Dynamat) is mostly a sound and vibration suppressor. It probably has some insulation properties - but not much. Only if you have an area of concern with immediate heat transfer to the passenger compartment - like mufflers immediately under the floor pan seating area or from the engine at the firewall, or the transmission tunnel - would I consider some supplemental insulation. And if you have the GM firewall insulation mat and the underbody transmission tunnel insulator blanket - you are probably set.

If you do need to add some additional insulation somewhere I really like the material I believe is called EZCool. It's a very lightweight, foil faced insulation material probably about 3/16 inch thick that insulates very well. That Dynamat stuff adds enough weight as is.

gator79

I used Dynamat for sound and Dynaliner for heat and it works great. My 64 does not molded carpet so there is no problem with it fitting

1rad55

Thanks for info.....I need to purchase carpet once I complete the installation. I'll go with the Dynaliner as you suggestion. My question is what kind of carpet should I get? Molded carpet won't work? So what are my options on new carpet? Thanks!

Chuck

GTOguy

A friend used Frost King from Lowes for his '67 GTO....quiet AND cooler. And about $40 to do the whole car, as opposed to $400 with Dynamat. That was 5 years ago, and the stuff is still working. Not saying Frost King is the one, but there are lots of mats out there, and they are all a bit different. Agree that more is not better. And met a guy on another forum who literally destroyed a 1940's Packard with household spray foam. The stuff is corrosive and traps moisture when used with steel....his entire car rusted out and was a complete loss. Rockers, A-pillars, everywhere he sprayed the stuff.

DansYellow66

Frost King is actually an excellent product that is more for insulation than vibration dampening - by virtue of what it's intended for - but it is substantial enough that it probably works to deaden some sound also. It is also self-adhesive, has an aluminum skin and is very economical. The manufacturer of my Cobra Replica (ERA) uses it on all of their cars to insulate the foot boxes inside the engine compartment.

Oaker57

Why is it that I see pictures where the underseat carpets sometimes have slots cut out for the seat rails, and sometimes there are no cutouts? Are they supposed to be cut out or do some owners do that to lower the seats a little?....My 64's are cut out, but I am going to be putting in new in the future and wondered which is correct?

Oaker57

ttt

fatboy34

I used dynamat for sound and heat, dampened noise well but for heat only about 10-15%, I then put DEI under carpet lite for a thermal heat barrier and it knocked out about 80% of the heat , you will have to trim some areas to make things fit but all in all it was a huge improvement.

Poorhousenext

If you truly want to understand Dynamat or any other company that makes similar Sound Damping product, try this test.

Install a square on underside of top of car on a nice hot day and let car sit outside for a couple of hours in hot sun. Then go and put you hand on same underside of top as the Sound Damping product is installed on and feel how hot it is. Then place place palm of your hand on the Sound Deadening's metal face. Be prepared to remove it quickly or suffer a nice burn. It will be hotter than the outside air or top side of a metal car sitting next to it. It adsorbs and holds heat or cold.

C2's body is like a Drum's head and thus for sound deadening needs a mass loader to help with deadening it resonating. Mass loader products do this. Like putting your hand on drum's skin to deaden sound. Or if you are an Irish drum player, make different music notes/tones based on hand pressure an/or placement.

For insulating transmission tunnel underside and if like any of my cars, insulate the underside of floor pan where you have to run exhaust underneath floor pan not inside tunnel you might want to look at using DEI (Design Engineering Inc) product stuck to underside so alumninized surface faces heat source, as that area is a primary source of cabin heat. I've never tried it inside under carpet, only out side. It is very sticky and hard to remove if you don't take care when sticking it to floor pan when installing. Recommend you make paper template(S) when installing it inside transmission tunnel so you can pre-cut material to ft.

https://www.designengineering.com//c...hesive-backing

Two areas I researched before I started 'Lydia was Soundproofing used in cars/trucks that compete in Sound contest to see who has the quietest car with the loudest interior sound system for best product(s) in that area, and heat shielding products used in race cars to protect drivers and car parts from extreme heat sources.

I'm not a big user of A/C 90% of time I'm driving. I roll down windows as needed even in the winter as I love fresh air feel. Use A/C in my C2s mainly only when it's raining or stuck in traffic on a really hot day. Love those Vent Windows, they do a great job of moving air across you body even when it's 100+ degs or more outside. But then again I'm a long time MC rider too so love fresh air, even hot or cold.

There is a little over 150 Lbs of heat shielding and sound damping material in Lydia to make sure I'm comfortable when driving car.

Project Jimmy Joe, because I want to try and get it in 10s in 1/4 mile with low horsepower, will require a different approach to try and do same heat and sound wise with it. Want know until we get car's body built and it assembled with roll cage weight, to see how much car weighs before I can see how comfortable I can make car for daily driving. May have to use a two stage approach for interior on it, or bump HP above 400 later if need be to keep car in 10s yet have added personal comfort for both a daily driver or sometime drag car for having a little fun with it.