firstgear

Part of my problem has been that the window stop inside the door allowed the window to roll righ over it. When that happened it made it next to impossible to roll the window down because now the stop was below it rather than on top of it.

Ugh! I was able to pull the stop away with a screw driver and roll the window up and down as long as I didn't over run the stop. The window if it gets rolled up too far then catches on the outside window felt trim piece and then also the window can't be rolled down.

When I look at the stop, it seems that the diameter is not large enough. That the amount of catch is too small and it is too easy to over come.

Anyone encounter this before (surely someone has)? What was your solution to fix it?

wmf62

braze/epoxy the 'right size' piece onto the stop, or move the window over. or, there may have been a rubber bumper over the stop that increased the diameter but has deteriorated and crumbled off.
Bill

Frankie the Fink

If its like the '61 there should be a rubber, approx dime-size cap on the window stop - and ALWAYS glue them on...order a bunch -- they get torn up easily. The trick is to adjust the stop in towards the window until it catches the glass frame without hitting the glass; likewise you can adjust the height to determine how the window is cocked front to back when its all the way up.

Its REALLY hard to get the adjustment right with the door garnishes off; so they need to be on AND that trim cap that goes on the end at the top of the rear on the door needs to be slid on when making the adjustment; it compresses the door ever so slightly to give you an accurate configuration for the adjustment.

Finally, if you have power windows (ESPECIALLY the quick SPW power windows) you need to learn to 'bump' the window switch the last few fractions of an inch at the top and bottom when operating the window. The motors are often powerful enough to drive the frame right past the window stops at full momentum even if the adjustment is good.

You have to make sure the window is not binding in this area either (see red arrow in last pic)...you may have to play with that metal tube-like trim piece to get things running smoothly.

All tips I've picked up from Mike Coletta.
If you want his phone # to get some tips straight from the pro PM me and I'll get it to you. I'm sure he wouldn't mind!

firstgear

I can still see the rubber bumper, but I can also see where the window frame was chewing it off from going over it.....

firstgear

No electric motors....

I am good where your red arrow is pointing, it is the other end where once the window gets too high that the trim piece lodges itself into the window frame and winding back down gets jammed kind of ugly like.....

Solution is to get the window bumper to hold it, then nothing gets out of whack.....just have to see what adjustments I can make.....

Frankie the Fink

Gotcha Herb. But its not like there is some secret formula. During the conversion to power windows; it took me a bunch of tries to get those dang window stops operating like I wanted. Its just a bit of PITA trial and error to a large extent...

firstgear

I was hoping that the silver bullet would become visible....but it is ugly work...oh well. Haven't been in this forum much lately. Spending a bunch of time in the C7 Z06 forum....bought one.

This weekend is Corvettes at Corsa and Sharon is driving the Z and I will drive the '60. We have always had a great time there and have missed the last couple of years. Both cars are torch red.

We will miss Carlisle this year because we are taking an Alaskan cruise, my bad...I could have suggested to Sharon to avoid, but it got by me....oh well.

Pilot Dan

Herb, one suggestion that I have for you would be to loosen the adjustment brackets completely (laterally and vertically) then put the window exactly where you want it, then move the adjuster brackets inward (fairly tightly). Next, adjust EACH bumper independently to make tight contact with the sash frame. Worked for me when I had to readjust for the Hard Top. Pilot Dan

firstgear

Dan, I will give her a go tomorrow and will report back....thanks

mike coletta

Herb,
Glue the rubber bumpers to the stops. Adjust the stops as necessary, keeping in mind that the rear one has to clear the glass frame. Make sure that you have the door panel in place (top two screws), to hold the fiberglass from flexing away from the glass, as the window reaches the stop point.

Mike Coletta

firstgear

Thanks Mike....I am giving her a go this morning....Herb

firstgear

Got it fixed.....

Adjusted the rubber stop....moved it in and while it will stop the window, it can also still be over powered. Just have to use care.

The outside felt trim had gotten jammed into the window frame and that would keep the window from rolling down. Had to do a couple of things as I wasn't interested in putting a new felt piece in on the outside...those were not fun the first time.
1. Found a really small headed screw and was able to drill a hole and put the screw into it to fasten the window felt to the outside door trim. The head was thin enough that the head disappeared into the felt.
2. The squared off end of the outside felt would still hook the window frame...so I took my Dremel and put a nice taper on it so that the frame would slide by it rather than hook it. Again, not my preferred method, but I wasn't messing with that felt any more than I had to.

Window goes up and down nicely, just need to make sure I don't over power the stop.

Thanks to those that offered insight, I do appreciate your assistance!

jusplainwacky

I came onto the Forum tonight to see if anyone else has the problem with the windows going past the door stops...and low-and-behold....here it is.

I have power windows and most of the time the window stop will work, but sometimes, it will go past it and get stuck. I have my window stop as close as I can get it to the window....any closer and I'm afraid the glass will rub against the stop.

I think the problem is two fold...the rubber is way too soft and if you're right on the edge of the stop the rubber folds over, pushing the fiberglass out, which causes your window to sneak by it.

I think the solution is to get some rubber that is a lot stiffer and bigger in diameter....the trick is, getting it to stay on. The rubber they supply with these door stops is a joke and will wear out in no time.

Tomorrow I'm going down to the hardware store and see what I can find...cause this setup...sucks.

rich5962

I know Frankie's work good, but not sure if he's careful on the switch and watches the glass and releases the button at "just the right moment" to prevent overtravel.

I'm wondering..........

if you drilled a hole in the regulator at just the right place and add a bolt/nut where the scissors action is between the 2 arms and make a "auxiliary" HARD stop. ?????

Rich

Frankie the Fink

90% of the problems, as noted, is that, unlike the front stop, the rear stop actually has to allow the rear horizontal metal portion of the window frame to pass it easily but still catch the lip at the bottom of the window for the stopping action. Meaning you have mere millimeters to play with; combine that with the fact that it is necessary to have the door apart when adjusting the stop -- so your measurement is inaccurate when the door is assembled -- and you have a recipe for a frustrating few hours of tedious work.

No magic bullet - you just have to 'fake it till you make it'...

rich5962

True, that rear stop flexes in and out as the fiberglass moves when the sash hits the stop as well.

Funny, I just did this yesterday morning on a '59, test fitting the Hardtop and adjusting sideglass to mate to the HT before I install the soft top frame and rag. JPW???? DO you have a hardtop also???

I had 3 tries on both sides before I got the rear stops set. Manual windows so not too bad. When the inner reveal molding is off you have to be careful the stainless frame doesn't catch the rubber on the way down. It'll flip off on you if not glued on good.

BTW, You power window guys are masochists! Why do you need them? To roll down the Pass side from your seat when the girlies wave at you!

Rich
ps don't mind me. I'm pulling my hair out on a 427 rebuild at the moment. I needed a distraction.

Frankie the Fink

In retrospect, I prob wouldn't have added power windows to the '61 again.

But they are nice when that Florida summer rain squall rolls in so you aren't leaning across the passenger seat trying to roll the side glass up while doing 70mph in a C1 (which is demanding enough without multi-tasking)...

mike coletta

Guys,
It's not that hard. Read post #10 again. MAKE SURE THAT YOU INSTALL THE DOOR PANEL TO STIFFEN THE DOOR FROM PUSHING AWAY FROM THE STOP. This also pushes the glass to the outermost extreme, to allow the stops to work. The setup works fine, with or without power windows.

jusplainwacky

As Mike suggested...go back and read #10...so I did. As he pointed out....Make sure that you have the door panel in place (top two screws)
I don't have the door panel in place and what Mike says makes sense to me.
I still think the rubber on these sucks and is way to soft and thin. I bought some brand new ones and they are already torn up and that's just from playing around with them and the window going pass them a few times while adjusting them.

Frankie the Fink

Try stiffer rubber - and you'll get to see how much faster it rips...