Vet65te

I've made some progress adding the Auto City power window kit to my 61 and now getting ready to replace the inner and outer window fuzzies (or whatever they are supposed to be called). Two things are obvious, the replacements need some slight bending at the front end to create the similar curve when connecting up near the door window post and secondly, I'll have to clamp and drill new attachment rivet holes. My question has to do with the various other threads I've read where it's been recommended to 'flatten' that front curved area so the framed window doesn't bind as it rolls up or down. Anyone have a pic showing about how much flattening needs to take place and also, is this slight flattening done before the fuzzy strip is secured to the stainless trim piece or after? Thanks.

Mike T - Prescott AZ

Frankie the Fink

I didn't 'flatten' anything....I just worked the curve to the point it is not a bit down in the window channel which is what causes the binding. IIRC the curving forced the round 'bead' up farther into the vertical piece to keep it out of the channel. I'd try that before I started distorting things irrecoverably.

And you better review how that outboard garnish is attached....those wire staples in your original are supposed to go THROUGH the outboard garnish and attach everything together....you can make new staples out of paper clips and do the job....the rivets are wrong...

You can see the staple holes in your original piece above and the staples are shown in the AIM...

jasonsamara

I did flatten mine. I just laid them flat on the concrete and used a hammer and hit on the felt side making sure not to hit the little tube. This will help but also cause it to curve so make sure you get the piece straight before you install it. Of course this is done before it's mounted on the molding. Also be careful when you slide the end into the door post felt because it's possible to chip some chrome off of your door post. Don't ask me how I know.

Vet65te

Unfortunately, someone ahead of me drilled the pop rivet holes through some of the existing staple holes in the garnish molding so I'll be drilling some new holes for rivets. Probably not the right size but I do have some 'other' staples left over from the A-arm dust flaps from my midyear Coupes. This project hasn't been a swift moving one anyway but when I run into a missing part, such as the right staples, that usually means a call to a vendor and a week long wait for the parts to arrive.
By the way, I pulled the old windows out with the fuzzies in place, so I suppose the new fuzzies can be reinstalled 'before' the new window is dropped in, correct?
Mike T - Prescott AZ

Frankie the Fink

You just clamp the fuzzies to the garnish with some wood clamps or vice gripss and with a drill bit a tad larger than a paper clip drill pairs of holes down the length of the assembled pieces....cut some paper clips with dykes to length, push them through the holes and bend them over....no more difficult than rivets....and no waiting for parts delivery.

But do what you want...

Vet65te

Frankie - For once, I got lucky with parts...just looked up the part number for the inner wheel well dust shield staples in the Paragon catalog and found they are the same ones used for the door fuzzies.
So, no waiting but I do have to drill new staple holes. The project is underway once more ;-).
Mike T - Prescott AZ

Frankie the Fink

Good for you....there is a reason for the staples. The small staples will 'pull down' into the fuzzy material and present the least obstruction to the window frame/glass/etc.. Rivet or screw heads stick up more and may work if small enough, but could scratch or bind your moving window...

You'll see what I mean when you assemble things...

rich5962

This is how I modify the fuzzies. It's part way through the document.

Vet65te

Rich - Great writeup, thanks. I noticed you dealt with the fuzzy being a bit too thick and that could cause the binding when the framed window passed through but you didn't seen to have any issues with the stainless tubular trim at the top other than having to slightly open it up with a pin-punch so that it would slide into place without binding.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

rich5962

Glad it may help. yes, open the ends a bit, but most importantly, make sure the tubular part of the fuzzies are above the garnish/reveal moldings when you prepare to punch/drill holes for them.

If they're too low on the moldings that'll hang up and bind the glass frame too.

Rich

Frankie the Fink

Second sentence in post #2.