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Old 08-02-2015, 08:02 PM
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Spike66
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Default Starting fail

After a year of dealing with this rebuild of my '66 327, I finally got it all plumbed up, wired up and tightened up. It was dyno'd at the rebuilder's so I know it runs. When I hit the switch, there was the turning over followed by a big back-fire. Stopped right there and waited then hit it again. I heard a lot of little pops while cranking but never got ignition. Tried again and the same thing. I decided something was wrong so I stopped. There was a wisp of white smoke wafting behind the distributor above the bellhousing that dissipated quickly. Nothing was hot, other than the battery cables. The ballast, coil, distributor, wire harness from the firewall block thru to the coil were all cool to the touch. I had the rebuilder install a Crane breakerless ignition module and other than that, it's stock. I believe I've connected the leads for the module correctly- it's just 2 wires to +/- coil posts. Ballast is still in-line. I took the dizzy off prior to installing the engine but am certain it went back the in the same position as I was concerned about that from the get. Don't know what to make of it. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Old 08-02-2015, 08:17 PM
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Nowhere Man
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If it doesn't fire and backfires you have it way out of time. Crank it and twist the dizzy until it wants to run. The dial it in with a light
Old 08-02-2015, 08:22 PM
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Spike66
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
If it doesn't fire and backfires you have it way out of time. Crank it and twist the dizzy until it wants to run. The dial it in with a light
I marked the distributor body on the intake and the location of the rotor while it was at 0 TDC. I don't see how I could have eff'ed it up. Possible...sure.
Old 08-02-2015, 08:23 PM
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It won't start on TDC At least I don't think it will....
Old 08-02-2015, 08:26 PM
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Spike66
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
It won't start on TDC At least I don't think it will....
? When it comes to the dizzy, it makes me dizzy. I'm lost. I don't know what you mean.
Before I took the dizzy out I rotated the engine to 0 TDC. Then I marked the location of the body on the intake. Then I pulled the cap and marked the location of the rotor. I put it all back in the same way.
Why would it matter at 0TDC if it went back the same way?

Last edited by Spike66; 08-02-2015 at 08:30 PM.
Old 08-02-2015, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Spike66
? When it comes to the dizzy, it makes me dizzy. I'm lost. I don't know what you mean.
I am at the end of knowledge and don't want to confuse you and me. Hopefully someone else will help you out
Old 08-02-2015, 08:35 PM
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Gary's '66
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Originally Posted by Spike66
After a year of dealing with this rebuild of my '66 327, I finally got it all plumbed up, wired up and tightened up. It was dyno'd at the rebuilder's so I know it runs. When I hit the switch, there was the turning over followed by a big back-fire. Stopped right there and waited then hit it again. I heard a lot of little pops while cranking but never got ignition. Tried again and the same thing. I decided something was wrong so I stopped. There was a wisp of white smoke wafting behind the distributor above the bellhousing that dissipated quickly. Nothing was hot, other than the battery cables. The ballast, coil, distributor, wire harness from the firewall block thru to the coil were all cool to the touch. I had the rebuilder install a Crane breakerless ignition module and other than that, it's stock. I believe I've connected the leads for the module correctly- it's just 2 wires to +/- coil posts. Ballast is still in-line. I took the dizzy off prior to installing the engine but am certain it went back the in the same position as I was concerned about that from the get. Don't know what to make of it. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Usually a backfire is caused by unburned gas that got into the heads and cylinders then got spark and BOOM. I'd check the ignition system first. I don't have electronic ignition but I believe I've read something about bypassing the ballast resistor when installing it (?) but I'm sure others will chime in to set that straight.

I also suggest that if you're running a Holley you may have blown the power valve so you might check that as well (after you've diagnose the initial issue). Easiest way to check it is to run the A/F screws in all the way (gently). If the motor dies you should be ok there. Good luck.

Gary

Last edited by Gary's '66; 08-02-2015 at 11:43 PM.
Old 08-02-2015, 09:28 PM
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I would try and figure what the smoke was. Im thinking you cooked the electronics and smoke was coming from inside distributor. Go back to basics and see if its fuel or electric. You seem sure you didn't turn dist 180? Find the smoke and you will figure the problem.
Old 08-02-2015, 10:21 PM
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Basics. Pull #1, Bring up to Compression Stroke, Line up Damper Line to TDC. Now check Rotor Position to #1 on Dist. Cap. Once all is proper give it a go after turning back Dist. to a slight Retard position. Attempt to start. Be careful, it might! Good Luck and keep us posted. Al W.
Old 08-02-2015, 11:50 PM
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You said the motor is stock but just thought I'd ask anyway. Did you happen to have an aftermarket cam installed? If so, the distributor drive gear may be off by a 1/2 a tooth in which case you'll need to remove the distributor drive gear and turn it 180° to be able set it up proper as aftermarket cams aren't indexed to the stock distributor. Ask me how I know.

Gary

Last edited by Gary's '66; 08-02-2015 at 11:54 PM.
Old 08-03-2015, 12:02 AM
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Read thoroughly and follow the instructions. As others have said, your distributor is not installed correctly.

http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...stallation.pdf
Old 08-03-2015, 05:56 AM
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Check for an ignition wire shorted under the center radio shielding. That smoke is a telltale that something electrical went amiss. You don't sound confident that you connected your electronic points conversion correctly -- that may be mis-wired or blown.

Pump the accelerator linkage while looking down the carb throat and make sure you get a nice shot of gas....a fuel starved engine can backfire. Check spark plug wire routing carefully.

IMO - sounds like you did due diligence on the distributor stab so that would be farther down my troubleshooting list. Even if you got it a tooth off the car should act better and possibly even start - albeit out of time... The fact the engine ran on the dyno and you installed the dizzy the same way (assumption on my part) you don't have a cam/dizzy mismatch.

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 08-03-2015 at 06:20 AM.
Old 08-03-2015, 06:18 AM
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Im going one further, any chance you put the rotor in backwards? I know square and round but I have seen it done.
Old 08-03-2015, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Spike66
After a year of dealing with this rebuild of my '66 327, I finally got it all plumbed up, wired up and tightened up. It was dyno'd at the rebuilder's so I know it runs. When I hit the switch, there was the turning over followed by a big back-fire. Stopped right there and waited then hit it again. I heard a lot of little pops while cranking but never got ignition. Tried again and the same thing. I decided something was wrong so I stopped. There was a wisp of white smoke wafting behind the distributor above the bellhousing that dissipated quickly. Nothing was hot, other than the battery cables. The ballast, coil, distributor, wire harness from the firewall block thru to the coil were all cool to the touch. I had the rebuilder install a Crane breakerless ignition module and other than that, it's stock. I believe I've connected the leads for the module correctly- it's just 2 wires to +/- coil posts. Ballast is still in-line. I took the dizzy off prior to installing the engine but am certain it went back the in the same position as I was concerned about that from the get. Don't know what to make of it. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Look closely at the install directions of the breaker less ignition
if I remember the ballast resister was deleted.
Old 08-03-2015, 06:48 AM
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Sounds like distributor is 180 out or you crossed some plug wires.
Old 08-03-2015, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by rtruman
Look closely at the install directions of the breaker less ignition
if I remember the ballast resister was deleted.
Incorrect.

Instructions for the XR-i Crane conversion state the ballast is required.
Old 08-03-2015, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by BD104X
Sounds like distributor is 180 out or you crossed some plug wires.
Yup, Make sure you reconnected the plug wires to the proper location. If you have just 2 wires crossed, the engine can backfire. As far as not running at all, could be several things. I would check the wiring(all) first especially if you saw smoke. Did it smell like burning wire insulation? Something got hot. I would not go further till I figured that out. Good luck. Keep us posted.

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Old 08-03-2015, 06:57 AM
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Advice is getting recycled now.
The OP needs to do some checks and get back to us...
Old 08-03-2015, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Check for an ignition wire shorted under the center radio shielding. That smoke is a telltale that something electrical went amiss. You don't sound confident that you connected your electronic points conversion correctly -- that may be mis-wired or blown.

Pump the accelerator linkage while looking down the carb throat and make sure you get a nice shot of gas....a fuel starved engine can backfire. Check spark plug wire routing carefully.

IMO - sounds like you did due diligence on the distributor stab so that would be farther down my troubleshooting list. Even if you got it a tooth off the car should act better and possibly even start - albeit out of time... The fact the engine ran on the dyno and you installed the dizzy the same way (assumption on my part) you don't have a cam/dizzy mismatch.
Shielding isn't on; getting fuel. The rebuilder installed the Crane module; I hooked up the 2 leads to the coil. No mention of taking the stock ballast out of the loop in their instructions. I followed the dizzy instructions that you and others gave me in another post and really thought I nailed it but anything is possible. I'm going to have to run thru the spark plug wire orientation too.
Old 08-03-2015, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 65silververt
Read thoroughly and follow the instructions. As others have said, your distributor is not installed correctly.

http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...stallation.pdf
I downloaded Lars' bulletin and read it. Parts of it are above my pay scale. The TDC alignment has me confused. If I bump to 0 TDC, how do I get the #1 cylinder in firing position? Or does that happen simultaneously or am I just stewpid?


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