Desert Nomad

I agree.
Along with the recommendation of having the correct pieces for your year, I believe Lar's explanation/demonstration is exactly why a lot of us are having release problems. Seems manufactures are increasing the thickness of their parts or mabey not to exactly the same spec's as they were originally designed when installed out of the factory. This has to be it. JMO.

Mr D.

OK Guys

I replaced the Z-Arm and clutch pedal pin bracket with correct 396/427 parts. ALL of the clutch linkage in this car is now 396/427 setup.

Before I installed the Z-Arm I measured the movement of the clutch fork from on T/O bearing to off T/O bearing and had a 1/2" of travel movement.

I adjusted the clutch per the AIM and when I had 1" of free play at the pedal I started the car and had the same problem. I than took out all the free play and this made no difference.

Shut the car off, put transmission in reverse, started the car and car moved backwards softly (not a hard jerk). This clutch is NOT fully releasing.

I'm at a impasse of what else to try. My thought right now are to pull the transmission and get all the clutch parts on the work bench and figure out what's going on.

I will check back in later today to further discuss all this. Again thanks for all the input on this problem.

MikeM

It could be the same as he's describing but if your clutch is a OEM replacement, not likely. I'd bet on a defective pressure plate.

Mr D.

Kind of what I'm thinking also. Anyway, I'm done mowing the yard and it's 2PM so time to punt.

Headed out to pull it apart, let you know what I find.

DansYellow66

That seems to be about the only pssibility that is left.

Mr D.

Well its out, I would rather take a azz whipping than pull a transmission out of a C2.

The trans was stuck and I had to use a hammer and wedge to knock it loose but once it cleared the pilot bushing it slide right out. I was thinking at that point maybe the pilot bushing was causing this but I don't think so. I have a cluster gear out of a Muncie I use as a line up shaft for the clutch disk and that fit right inside the pilot bushing with no problems and turns easy.

The clutch fork was installed correctly and it has the correct T/O bearing. From a visual inspection everything looks as it should.

At this point I don't know what to do but throw a new clutch kit at it and while I'm there buy a new clutch fork.

The only thing 65 OEM at that point will be the flywheel, bell housing and ball stud.

Mr D.

Any recommendations on what brand clutch setup to buy, I'm not putting another LUK kit in it.

Because I have nothing better to do tonight, I will pull the flywheel and do the test that Lars did in post #14 of this thread.

MikeM

Can you just measure the thickeness of the clutch disc?

MikeM

Maybe somewhere here is your problem? This doesn't sound right at all.

Mr D.

I agree and that is all I have left. I just measured the clutch release and at .325 the disk broke loose and gap was .018, at .470 the disk clearance was .050.

There is nothing wrong with this clutch.

Mr D.

Buns posted a picture in post #34 of a clutch fork which matches the one I have. However mind does have some wear at the T/O bearing pad when compared to a new clutch fork.

Could this be part of the problem ( I don't think so but at this point).

6T7L71CPE

Did you check your bellhousing alignment? The trans input gear by its self may not bind but when assembled in the trans it might.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...h-telling.html

http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

larrywalk

While your at it, check the ID of the pilot bushing and the OD of the input shaft of your trans. Also, very carefully determine if the ID of the pilot bearing is straight and doesn't pinch down as it goes in. I have seen pilot bearings neck down to a smaller ID if they are installed too deeply into the crank.

By all means, align your bellhousing.

Good luck!

Mr D.

Anyone used the Browell Alignment Tool? Turning this engine over by hand in the car is going to be a complete bear/redazz.

W Guy

I've had good luck turning it over by hand by removing the spark plugs and putting a breaker bar on the generator/alternator fan nut and pushing down hard on the generator belt so it doesn't slip on the WP/crank pulleys.
IT may not work so well if you have massive valve springs but it's always worked easily for me on a stock engine.

Verne

MikeM

I don't know how that device sets up. Can you use a remote starter button.

Mr D.

I was thinking about that but wasn't sure if it would cause the dial indicator to jump around.

WTH, I will give it a shot

Mr D.

Measurements so far today;

Flywheel Deck Height - .965 (looking for .910 to .960)
Ball Stud to Bell Housing Face - 4.727 (looking for 4.750)
Ball Stud - 1.517 (looking for 1.480)
Pilot Bushing Internal Dia - .591
Cluster Gear Shaft Dia - .588
LUK T/O Bearing - 1.210 (looking for 1.250)
GM OEM T/O Bearing - 1.270 (looking for 1.250)

Nothing about the above numbers jumps out to me, I don't like the LUK T/O bearing number and will be replacing that.

KC John

I wonder if all those small discrepancies add up to your problem? They don't seem to be significant enough to cause a problem, but who knows?

MikeM

You can also put a pry bar on the block, use it for a fulcrum and grab the teeth on the flywheel for a gentler action.