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These numbers are from a powerglide car. The heads, manifold, transmission all have the right date codes and numbers. It's an October 1960 built car. The date code looks like Sept 16, 1960? The VIN is stamped a little strange on the pad. I can't confirm anything about the engine identification numbers. I know the "DG" means 283 CI, 230 HP which would be right. The pad looks like it has broach marks. The car was parked we believe in the early 1980's due to a wiring harness short and left in a hanger in Torrance, CA, all these years. Any thoughts?
Beginning in mid-1960, the VIN derivative was stamped using a gang. The VIN derivative in your photo appears to have been stamped without a gang. The broach marks should be running parallel from front to back and I don't see that, but could be a function of the photo. The marks appear to be left to right.
The camera flash washed out most of the chassis date code. What is the date code?
Looks like vin #1082 to me, and like 1960 cars I have seen with similar stamps. This was new to the factory, so the person doing the stamping was learning something new every day. Vin 1052 was the last September car made, so this car was built on Monday October 3, 1960. I think it is the original engine. POWERGLIDE 230hp is a nice ride. I bet it cleans up nicely.
Last edited by jimgessner; 08-13-2015 at 12:31 AM.
Beginning in mid-1960, the VIN derivative was stamped using a gang. The VIN derivative in your photo appears to have been stamped without a gang. The broach marks should be running parallel from front to back and I don't see that, but could be a function of the photo. The marks appear to be left to right.
The camera flash washed out most of the chassis date code. What is the date code?
I'll have to try to get a better look, but I think it says 9.2.60
The broach marks definitely run front to back. I used some thinner and a scotchbrite pad to clean the paint off, so there may be some streaking from rubbing it up and down the pad.
The stamp pad on the block reads F09I9DG which is Sept 19th. That's 3 days after the 09/16/60 cast date if I'm reading everything correctly. I pulled the right side valve cover and found the date of the head to be 06/09/1960.
Looks like vin #1082 to me, and like 1960 cars I have seen with similar stamps. This was new to the factory, so the person doing the stamping was learning something new every day. Vin 1052 was the last September car made, so this car was built on Monday October 3, 1960. I think it is the original engine. POWERGLIDE 230hp is a nice ride. I bet it cleans up nicely.
The extra "1" is legitimate in the engine vin derivative. The vin derivative in 1961 included a "1" to designate the model year. This was also a feature for subsequent years. The 1960 MY did not.
The Flint assembly stamp looks normal to me. I see some broaching in there too. Oh, just a FYI, best not to use any type of abrasive, including Scotch-Brite on the pad. Stick with the thinner and brushes, like the small acid brushes. Just cut the bristles down shorter for a better stiffness.
My gut feel is that the stamp pad is legitimate, however uncommon. It should have been gang stamped. But who knows what happened then. It's very possible the gang stamp fixture was not available at the time, being repaired, who knows. The line would have to continue so individual stamps may have been used for a period of time.
Ideally it would be consistent with others built around the same time if you found other examples stamped in a similar fashion. That car appears very original and my bet says it's all real, however of course not typical of expected factory production.
It is also possible that the block was replaced under warranty, or even at final test in St Louis. If so, then the individual stamps would possibly used to "get it out the door". The cast date of the block to assembly stamp is only 3 days apart. Very typical. My 1961 block is cast J200,(Oct 20) assembled I026(Oct 26), 6 days later.
The extra "1" is legitimate in the engine vin derivative. The vin derivative in 1961 included a "1" to designate the model year. This was also a feature for subsequent years. The 1960 MY did not.
The Flint assembly stamp looks normal to me. I see some broaching in there too. Oh, just a FYI, best not to use any type of abrasive, including Scotch-Brite on the pad. Stick with the thinner and brushes, like the small acid brushes. Just cut the bristles down shorter for a better stiffness.
My gut feel is that the stamp pad is legitimate, however uncommon. It should have been gang stamped. But who knows what happened then. It's very possible the gang stamp fixture was not available at the time, being repaired, who knows. The line would have to continue so individual stamps may have been used for a period of time.
Ideally it would be consistent with others built around the same time if you found other examples stamped in a similar fashion. That car appears very original and my bet says it's all real, however of course not typical of expected factory production.
It is also possible that the block was replaced under warranty, or even at final test in St Louis. If so, then the individual stamps would possibly used to "get it out the door". The cast date of the block to assembly stamp is only 3 days apart. Very typical. My 1961 block is cast J200,(Oct 20) assembled I026(Oct 26), 6 days later.
Nice find!
Rich
Wow Rich that's great news. I wonder if the block was still warm from the foundry when they machined it?
Just looking at it from every direction it looks like it's never been apart. It also looks like they weren't into oil changes. I had to work at it to get the sludge off the head casting numbers just to read them.
FWIW: I've got a MY61 block out of a Corvette which, like yours, has a goofy pad stamping. Also, like yours, it's early in the model year. May just be a coincidence.
FWIW: I've got a MY61 block out of a Corvette which, like yours, has a goofy pad stamping. Also, like yours, it's early in the model year. May just be a coincidence.
Jim
I'm sorry, what did you say? Every time I see your posts I get distracted thinking about that Pennant Blue '54 that belonged to your dad! Then I have to reread what you posted.
Is there any way you can post a picture of the pad? It would be interesting to compare.
Randy, I'd bet a month's pay that the stamp (and the rest of the car) is legitimate. Nobody was faking 230 horse powerglide cars 35 years ago. It looks like a totally honest, un-messed with ride, and you got great deal on it. Some mechanical shining up, and you've got a killer grocery-getter. I'll bet it was the guy's wife's car, and driven pretty gently. Funny how I thought my December 1960 '61 was 'early', but yours, 1,970 cars ahead of mine has a complete different radiator, etc.
I'm not seeing anything to dissuade me from believing the engine numbers/VIN are legit on the car... I'm thinking the rarity of this engine setup elevates it above 'grocery getter' status. You have to decide whether or not to make it a fun driver or 'go for it' and restore it to its former glory (possibly judged) -- you may have a 6 digit car there under the right circumstances...
First thing you want to do is put a couple of black plastic tie wraps around that VIN tag. Its important documentation and it wouldn't be the first one to get knocked off -- or just plain fall off...
I'm sorry, what did you say? Every time I see your posts I get distracted thinking about that Pennant Blue '54 that belonged to your dad! Then I have to reread what you posted.
Is there any way you can post a picture of the pad? It would be interesting to compare.
HA! Your mind wanders, Randy. No one had even said "Pennant Blue" in this thread!
The block is accessible but not conveniently. Still, I'm curious, too. Give me a few days and remind me if it appears that my CRS has kicked in again.
hi guys , not to bump a great find and a fine car, but is that a radio antenna in the passenger drivers front fender ??
It has a strange radio in it, and there were no antenna wires in the trunk. Once I figure out how to reopen the trunk (no keys came with the car) I'll know more by looking on the left side for evidence of a filled hole. Everyone wanted the 76 Union antenna ball, but I kept it.
08-12-2015, 08:42 PM
1961 Corvette engine date code and stamp pad
