Replace brake lines with body on?
08-26-2015, 09:10 AM
#1
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Replace brake lines with body on?
Just did a quick search for that phrasing, so now it's time to ask.
Has anyone replaced all brake lines with the body on the frame? I've been under my car and have seen a few clips that I don't think I can remove, especially in front of the kick-up. Has anyone successfully done this? Or do you have to raise the body? If I have to raise the body, I might as well replace the body mounts. If I do that, I might as well do a full frame-off, which I can't afford project creep.
edit: forgot to include this is a '64 convertible
Has anyone replaced all brake lines with the body on the frame? I've been under my car and have seen a few clips that I don't think I can remove, especially in front of the kick-up. Has anyone successfully done this? Or do you have to raise the body? If I have to raise the body, I might as well replace the body mounts. If I do that, I might as well do a full frame-off, which I can't afford project creep.
edit: forgot to include this is a '64 convertible
Last edited by ifitgoesfast; 08-26-2015 at 09:16 AM. Reason: '64 convertible
08-28-2015, 01:01 AM
#2
Did it
Just did a quick search for that phrasing, so now it's time to ask.
Has anyone replaced all brake lines with the body on the frame? I've been under my car and have seen a few clips that I don't think I can remove, especially in front of the kick-up. Has anyone successfully done this? Or do you have to raise the body? If I have to raise the body, I might as well replace the body mounts. If I do that, I might as well do a full frame-off, which I can't afford project creep.
edit: forgot to include this is a '64 convertible
Has anyone replaced all brake lines with the body on the frame? I've been under my car and have seen a few clips that I don't think I can remove, especially in front of the kick-up. Has anyone successfully done this? Or do you have to raise the body? If I have to raise the body, I might as well replace the body mounts. If I do that, I might as well do a full frame-off, which I can't afford project creep.
edit: forgot to include this is a '64 convertible
08-28-2015, 11:47 AM
#3
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If the brake lines require replacement (read: safety), then finding a way to do so without removing the body is prudent (assuming frame-off is not currently practicable), even if one might end up in the short term with a non-OEM arrangement for the sake of preserving life, as well as the car.
Lots of threads about this, with differing results. I seem to recall that the front to back driver's side line can be difficult to impossible; however, an alternate routing (necessitating a non-OEM line) is certainly possible.
This is likely a case where doing a detailed search to find the "how to" threads for this job may be of great value to you.
Good luck.
Lots of threads about this, with differing results. I seem to recall that the front to back driver's side line can be difficult to impossible; however, an alternate routing (necessitating a non-OEM line) is certainly possible.
This is likely a case where doing a detailed search to find the "how to" threads for this job may be of great value to you.
Good luck.
08-28-2015, 11:56 AM
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On a '65, the line is routed on top of the rail and is not really accessible. At the rear torque box, in front of the kick up, some '65's had two clips and some had one. Neither accessible.
I removed the line on my '65 simply by jerking the rotten old line out and replaced it with new, using a similar but accessible routing.
I think '67 is routed low on the rail where you can get to it. Don't know about the other years. That's one reason you see people say it's a piece of cake to replace the line and some say it can't be done without lifting the body. It didn't hurt my feelings a bit to use an alternate routing in lieu of raising the body to make it like factory.
FWIW, my line was rotten UNDER the retaining clips where you couldn't see the rust/corrosion.
I removed the line on my '65 simply by jerking the rotten old line out and replaced it with new, using a similar but accessible routing.
I think '67 is routed low on the rail where you can get to it. Don't know about the other years. That's one reason you see people say it's a piece of cake to replace the line and some say it can't be done without lifting the body. It didn't hurt my feelings a bit to use an alternate routing in lieu of raising the body to make it like factory.
FWIW, my line was rotten UNDER the retaining clips where you couldn't see the rust/corrosion.
Last edited by MikeM; 08-28-2015 at 11:58 AM.
08-28-2015, 12:30 PM
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On a '65, the line is routed on top of the rail and is not really accessible. At the rear torque box, in front of the kick up, some '65's had two clips and some had one. Neither accessible.
I removed the line on my '65 simply by jerking the rotten old line out and replaced it with new, using a similar but accessible routing.
I think '67 is routed low on the rail where you can get to it. Don't know about the other years. That's one reason you see people say it's a piece of cake to replace the line and some say it can't be done without lifting the body. It didn't hurt my feelings a bit to use an alternate routing in lieu of raising the body to make it like factory.
FWIW, my line was rotten UNDER the retaining clips where you couldn't see the rust/corrosion.
I removed the line on my '65 simply by jerking the rotten old line out and replaced it with new, using a similar but accessible routing.
I think '67 is routed low on the rail where you can get to it. Don't know about the other years. That's one reason you see people say it's a piece of cake to replace the line and some say it can't be done without lifting the body. It didn't hurt my feelings a bit to use an alternate routing in lieu of raising the body to make it like factory.
FWIW, my line was rotten UNDER the retaining clips where you couldn't see the rust/corrosion.
08-28-2015, 12:42 PM
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I took those two steps as I didn't want to take a chance on kinking the new line trying to route it like it's supposed to be. Others with more patience might not have done it that way but my way has worked for 15 years.
08-28-2015, 02:39 PM
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I used an OEM line. Took the easy way out and cut the line in half routed it and then coupled it back together with a flare union. On the back, I think I went under the frame instead of over.
I took those two steps as I didn't want to take a chance on kinking the new line trying to route it like it's supposed to be. Others with more patience might not have done it that way but my way has worked for 15 years.
I took those two steps as I didn't want to take a chance on kinking the new line trying to route it like it's supposed to be. Others with more patience might not have done it that way but my way has worked for 15 years.
08-30-2015, 08:17 AM
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I replaced the front to rear brake line on my 64 in a little less than 3 hours with the body bolted to the frame. This included replacing the clips on top of the frame. I removed the drivers side rocker panel and rear tire. I fed the brake line into the wheel well going between the inside frame rail and the body. I then worked the line into place reaching under the car and going through the space provided by the removed rocker panel. The only tricky part was aligning the line around the frame kick-up. Bending was very minimal.
08-30-2015, 09:11 AM
#9
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I replaced the front to rear brake line on my 64 in a little less than 3 hours with the body bolted to the frame. This included replacing the clips on top of the frame. I removed the drivers side rocker panel and rear tire. I fed the brake line into the wheel well going between the inside frame rail and the body. I then worked the line into place reaching under the car and going through the space provided by the removed rocker panel. The only tricky part was aligning the line around the frame kick-up. Bending was very minimal.
08-30-2015, 12:04 PM
#10
Good thinking
I replaced the front to rear brake line on my 64 in a little less than 3 hours with the body bolted to the frame. This included replacing the clips on top of the frame. I removed the drivers side rocker panel and rear tire. I fed the brake line into the wheel well going between the inside frame rail and the body. I then worked the line into place reaching under the car and going through the space provided by the removed rocker panel. The only tricky part was aligning the line around the frame kick-up. Bending was very minimal.
08-30-2015, 12:14 PM
#11
Required bending
My SS brake line was pretty forgiving. Used gradual, broad bends gently applied. They all bent back to correct configuration . Condensed, abruptly applied bends will collapse the lines walls and it's trash
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1925_duane (05-10-2019)
05-10-2019, 08:56 PM
#13
Also did my 66 brake line with body on. All clips went back on using a lot of patience. One fastener below the drivers door was too tight for room so I carefully cut the fastener shorter and got it threaded into place. Ran brake line in from front of car. Can be done long as the brake line is on the TOP INNER edge of the frame.