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replacing rocker moulding, 65 sidepipe car

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Old 08-26-2015, 11:06 AM
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dplotkin
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Default replacing rocker moulding, 65 sidepipe car

I just received my new rocker moldings for my 65 Roadster with pipes from Long Island Corvette. Any tips for installing these? The ones on the car have two sheet-metal screws on each end that go through the glass, nothing behind. I bought a screw & nut kit, so I guess there is supposed to be nuts. Is the rest of the molding on with clips?


Ps. It was not a factory side pipe car if that is relevant.


Dan
Old 08-26-2015, 12:28 PM
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MikeM
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The moulding hooks over a long strip of metal running along the body from wheel/wheel. One screw in each end. On my car, there is a screw in each end with a tin clip on the back side for the screw to tighten to.
Old 08-26-2015, 01:11 PM
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DansYellow66
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Dan - as Mike said you should get the two long, retainer strips which screw to nut clips secured on the edge of the fiberglass rocker sills. I thought these retainer strips were also used with undercar exhaust moldings - but maybe I'm wrong. Although there isn't a lot original left on my car, as Mike mentioned I do have the sheet metal nuts securing the two end screws.

Once the retainer strips are screwed on it can be a little tricky getting the molding snapped down ove the top of them due to the roll of the lower body - some try to slide them on over the retainer from the front or rear. Scratching the paint can be a concern with this if not careful.

Or you can put small washers on the screws on the backside of the retainer strip to slightly space them away from the body - helping to snap them on from the top.
Old 08-26-2015, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DansYellow66
Dan - as Mike said you should get the two long, retainer strips which screw to nut clips secured on the edge of the fiberglass rocker sills. I thought these retainer strips were also used with undercar exhaust moldings - but maybe I'm wrong. Although there isn't a lot original left on my car, as Mike mentioned I do have the sheet metal nuts securing the two end screws.

Once the retainer strips are screwed on it can be a little tricky getting the molding snapped down ove the top of them due to the roll of the lower body - some try to slide them on over the retainer from the front or rear. Scratching the paint can be a concern with this if not careful.

Or you can put small washers on the screws on the backside of the retainer strip to slightly space them away from the body - helping to snap them on from the top.

Thanks to you both.
I have moldings on there now so I assume the retainer strips are in place, are you recommending I replace those?


Dan
Old 08-26-2015, 02:15 PM
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Frankie the Fink
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You do not need to replace the retainer strips...its just a metal bar screwed onto the car so the lip of the molding has a place to 'grab'....here is my '63 (don't know if other midyears are identical but you get the idea!)

Trying to slide the molding on from either end is almost guaranteed paint scratched. Two methods are used to make the job easier:

1) back out the metal rail screws 1/2-3/4 turn from tight so they are a bit loose...as you put the front lip of the molding over the rail and tip it down it will pull outward on the rail and make things tight, or,
2) put washers on the screws between the rail and the car body -- this lets you keep the screws tight but with a gap for the rocker molding upper lip and installation of the trim is the same as in 1) above.
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Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 08-26-2015 at 02:18 PM.
Old 08-26-2015, 02:20 PM
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Tx Frankie. Looks easy enough. But I'm an electrical/mechanical guy. I don't work with wood and my bodywork is limited to polish & wax. My wife calls out the national guard if she sees me with a paint brush. But I think I can manage this.


Dan
Old 08-26-2015, 02:25 PM
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I'm always a little paranoid so I put a strip of that blue painter's quick release tape along the top of the retainer strip so the molding 'tilt down' procedure didn't ding anything up...
Old 08-26-2015, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DansYellow66

Once the retainer strips are screwed on it can be a little tricky getting the molding snapped down ove the top of them due to the roll of the lower body .
Originally Posted by dplotkin

I have moldings on there now so I assume the retainer strips are in place, are you recommending I replace those?


Dan
Originally Posted by dplotkin
But I'm an electrical/mechanical guy.
Dan
I remember having trouble getting my rocker moulding over the retainer strip. I bent the top lip of the rocker moulding O/B a hair and that let it drop straight down over the retainer.

The retainer strip is common to both exhaust systems.

I'm a hammer and chisel kinda' guy and I had problem.

Dn't forget you have to trim the front fenders either off or part of the way off. Bend the brackets out of the way. Don't cut them.
Old 08-26-2015, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dplotkin
Thanks to you both.
I have moldings on there now so I assume the retainer strips are in place, are you recommending I replace those?


Dan
I misunderstood and thought you were missing them. Yeah, there is no reason to replace them.
Old 08-30-2015, 08:54 PM
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Gentlemen I'm happy to report that the rocker moldings went on the car about 9:45 AM this morning. They came off the channel easy. The new ones from Long island Corvette needed new holes drilled are pretty good and in my case far better than the crap reproductions that were on the car. Long island had said they were "best available"and I don't doubt it.

Thanks for your help.

Dan
Old 08-31-2015, 11:05 AM
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Since I figured they would never come off while I owned the car, I installed mine by simply tapping them down with a rubber hammer while holding them tight to the lower body. Didn't have to loosen the screws or adding a washer but that would have been a simpler way than what I did. No damage to the car or the molding so I guess I got lucky there.
Old 08-31-2015, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 66BlkBB
Since I figured they would never come off while I owned the car, I installed mine by simply tapping them down with a rubber hammer while holding them tight to the lower body. Didn't have to loosen the screws or adding a washer but that would have been a simpler way than what I did. No damage to the car or the molding so I guess I got lucky there.

The old ones left indentation lines in the paint along with black paint from the old moldings that I was able to compound out enough where I'd have to point them out to you, the new moldings are not perfect but look far better than the old ones.


Dan
Old 08-31-2015, 07:12 PM
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I remember the reproductions I bought about 20 years ago - they had a curve to them. It took some careful manipulation to get them straight and once installed they look just fine.
Old 08-31-2015, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DansYellow66
I remember the reproductions I bought about 20 years ago - they had a curve to them. It took some careful manipulation to get them straight and once installed they look just fine.
This is what Long Island's pieces look like:





Dan

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