alexandervdr

I am in the process of replacing front drum brakes. is there anywhere a clear view on how to do this. There is a myriad of cups/springs/ etc and it's not 100% clear where fits what.

Frankie the Fink

There are no doubt youtube videos...here are my '63 brakes...
Take one side apart at a time so you have something to go by with the wheel you are NOT working on.

Tampa Jerry

Many of the Hayes, Chilton or other shop manuals will explain the process. There are a few specific tools required to to the job, nothing too expensive. I know that there are some good U tube videos on the topic. I think I looked at a few of them to do the back brakes on my Chevelle. I used to do them all the time when I worked at gas stations as a kid in the early 70s. Good luck. Jerry

alexandervdr

Thanks Franky, I did take the wheels apart long time ago, and I took plenty of pictures. However, iI suspect the previous owner had not done it correctly. To make it worse: the overhaul kit I got from zip has multiple springs and pivot rods of different lengths presumably to make it fit not only for C2 but for other GM cars too...So I am confused, something I don't want to have in the area of brakes!

alexandervdr

let's tackle it problem by problem

There is a thin washer, is this supposed to go between the rear pad and the lever of the self adjusting system?

Frankie the Fink

Hard to say without a picture -- if you got the self-adjuster rebuild kit with all your stuff....it will have a thin washer to abut the star wheel on the threaded portion of the aduster...

A picture would help.

Frankie the Fink

You may want to read through this guide before undertaking a blow-by-blow forum exchange on the job:

http://greasegirl.com/2013/12/how-to...r-drum-brakes/

Ignore the rear axle removal and parking brake sections if you are only working on the fronts - everything else is applicable...

alexandervdr

thx, will be reading it this evening (which is now my local time)

alexandervdr

Hayes manuals for american vintage cars are hard to find in europe. Which hayes manual should I be looking for? Which car? which years?

Tampa Jerry

Let me check my garage library and I will get back to you. Jerry

alexandervdr

Here are exact pictures of the front brake kit ( left&right) I have. I put numbers on the components along the picture of Franky's wheel.

I sorted out most of it, but I am stuck with the hold down springs and pins.

I get a green (long&firm) spring #5 and a blue (shorter&softer) spring #4
Whitch one belongs in A? And in B?
Is there a reason why 5 is so much stronger?
Why does #5 taper off at one end?

I get a total of 4 pins per wheel, as far as I understand I only need two?
Then I get 4 long ones #6 (about 2.45" top to tip) and 4 short ones #7 (about 2.1").

Referring to Franky's picture, what pin do I need in A? and in B?

Frankie the Fink

Spring 4 goes on space B It is shorter to compensate for that self adjuster plate. 5 goes on A.

DucatiDon

I get a green (long&firm) spring #5 and a blue (shorter&softer) spring #4
Whitch one belongs in A? And in B?

The Long Spring (green 5) goes in A.
The short spring (blue 4) goes in B. (Due to the self adjuster lever.)

Is there a reason why 5 is so much stronger?
Why does #5 taper off at one end? To locate it in the brake shoe. #4 sits in the cup of #10, which goes in B and provides the locate and pivot for the self adjuster in the brake shoe.

I get a total of 4 pins per wheel, as far as I understand I only need two?
Then I get 4 long ones #6 (about 2.45" top to tip) and 4 short ones #7 (about 2.1").

Use the ones that are the same length as the ones you took out. Probably all long ones.

Referring to Franky's picture, what pin do I need in A? and in B? Whichever one protrudes enough to get the spring retainer on. (probably the long ones)

Frankie the Fink

Agree with all of the above !
Your picture doesn't show the washer you mentioned a while back..

alexandervdr

it starts making sense...

still some questions

"Why does #5 taper off at one end? To locate it in the brake shoe."
Are you saying there is no cup in the brake shoe where the tapered end of 5 goes? I found an exploded view of what I believe is a 60-ies Chevelle brake system that does not show a cup but a washer?

Look at the picture I took of the old versus new springs. The new one with the tapered end is substantially taller than the one that was in the car. Spring rate is about identical, but given the higher compression, spring force will be way higher. Does it matter?

"Your picture doesn't show the washer you mentioned a while back.."

It's in the adjuster kit shown below part #15, although mine does not include the lever itself.

Frankie the Fink

The green spring will work fine....that washer #15 goes on top of the assembly to the far right and lays flat on the star wheel on the adjuster....the little metal cap just to the bottom left of the adjuster goes over that on top of the washer. That self adjuster must be carefully lubed AND the adjusters are threaded differently for LEFT and RIGHT side use. Usually the adjuster has an "L" or "R" on the end to designate its location!

You will also want just the slightest bit of lube BEHIND the brake shoes on the backing plate where the shoes rub against it as they move in and out....you'll prob see a shiny spot at those locations...

alexandervdr

that's a golden advice, didn't know that. L&R are indeed stamped on it.

I should really get hold of one of these GM 60-ies repair/maintenance books (chevelle?Impalla?) that cover the brakes, if someone could tell me which one to take that would be greatly appreciated

alexandervdr

I believe I finished the front left wheel!
Those who detect an issue with what I did let me know, because I am starting the right front wheel now

In the self adjuster kit there was a small tube of silicon grease included. Is that for the adjuster wheel thread? I did put on hiTemp copper grease (as I did on the raised surfaces on the backplate where the sides of the break shoes rest), no problem I hope?

Frankie the Fink

I don't see any issues. Not only the threads on the adjusters but the smooth post under the little aduster cap needs lubed...

I see you have riveted (vs bonded) brake shoes....you just have to watch the wear later on as if the shoes wear enough those exposed rivets will ruin an original drum... I'm sure you wouldn't let things go that far !

You'll want to clean the dickens out of the drum and shoes before the final fit...any grease on there will affect stopping. Do a trial fit of the drum a few times turning the adjuster until you get a slight drag when turning the drum (there is a tool to set the adjustment up but they are getting sort of rare - I do have one but you're a little far away to loan it to you!). Take it easy the first few hundred miles until the brakes 'take a set' and get comfortable. (They also used to 'arch' the shoes to match the drum....no more. Another lost art!)

alexandervdr

I lubed both sides.
The overhaul kit was a complet deluxe package including the drums all from Zip. A pity they don't go for the best but for the riveted compromise
Given that i am really a smooth driver and 'soft braker', for how many miles should I trust those riveted shoes?

Thanks for your help