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Since the C1 has almost no adjustment for Camber and especially Caster, how does one get positive Caster on the 1960 C1?
Tom would have more knowledge than me on this subject but I did rebuild my front end on my 61 and I so my own alignments.
When I pulled my cross-member the tapered shims where missing. This produces extra positive caster.
Unless the spindle is bent or you have worn components you should have enough adjustment on the upper eccentric to bring the front end into spec.
Joe
Tom would have more knowledge than me on this subject but I did rebuild my front end on my 61 and I so my own alignments.
When I pulled my cross-member the tapered shims where missing. This produces extra positive caster.
Unless the spindle is bent or you have worn components you should have enough adjustment on the upper eccentric to bring the front end into spec.
Joe
Thanks, The eccentric gave us some improvement on the right side, none on the left. How difficult is it to shim the cross member?
Thanks again
Thanks, The eccentric gave us some improvement on the right side, none on the left. How difficult is it to shim the cross member?
Thanks again
The shims go between the cross-member and the chassis. You would have to remove all the bolts and drop it down enough to slip them in.
Are you having trouble getting camber or caster or both?
Joe
The shims go between the cross-member and the chassis. You would have to remove all the bolts and drop it down enough to slip them in.
Are you having trouble getting camber or caster or both?
Joe
Thanks guys.
I will have to check to see if the shims are in. #2 The front end man said his research showed both the camber and caster were controlled by the eccentric. When rotating the eccentric we got almost NO improvement. Are the two separated as opposed to what he was able to find online?
The shims are in between front cross member and frame, when I rebuilt mine I doubled the shims, for more caster on advice of dzauto (Tom P) and others agreed. Chip
Thanks guys.
I will have to check to see if the shims are in. #2 The front end man said his research showed both the camber and caster were controlled by the eccentric. When rotating the eccentric we got almost NO improvement. Are the two separated as opposed to what he was able to find online?
This is correct.
The alignment sequence is to, first, turn the eccentric as many turns as needed to get the caster dialed in. Then make one final rotation of 1/2 turn (or less) to dial in the camber. If your alignment guy can not measure ANY change in either caster or camber, then something is wrong with the eccentric mechanism.
And to answer your other question, the aluminum shims between frame and crossmember add 2 degrees of positive caster. You really want to verify these shims are present before trying to get caster dialed in with the eccentric.
This is the right upper outer eccentric. Notice how close the spindle is to the rear of the upper A frame, maximum + caster. When you turn the eccentric the upper arm will move forward and rearward to increase or decrease caster and also move the spindle in and out to adjust the camber. Have your alignment guy turn the eccentric to see if the arm is moving properly.
As Jim has stated, do the caster first and then the camber.
Have your guy check the front end really good looking for worn parts.
My 61 had extremely worn upper A bushings and arms. I had to replace both upper arms and all steel bushings. She pictures.
Joe
The upper arms were so worn the steel bushing were loose in the arms.
Question: do you loosen the clamp bolt before you attempt to turn the eccentric bolt? My ST12 manual shows the removal of the actual grease fitting, and says there is access to the shaft internally.....from what I'm seeing, it looks like you simply loosen the clamp, and turn the big hex heads that the grease fittings are screwed into?
hi mr GTO, no you remove the rear grease fitting and insert a L hex wrench to turn the upper eccentric bolt, will try to take a picture later today, grumpy
o
Originally Posted by GTOguy
Question: do you loosen the clamp bolt before you attempt to turn the eccentric bolt? My ST12 manual shows the removal of the actual grease fitting, and says there is access to the shaft internally.....from what I'm seeing, it looks like you simply loosen the clamp, and turn the big hex heads that the grease fittings are screwed into?
You MUST loosen the clamp bolt, in order to turn the allen head eccentric!
The Allen head wrench is 1/4" and fits through the rear upper (outer) grease fitting hole (after the Zerk grease fitting has been removed).
Note that someone on my 62, had previously redone the front end, and installed the eccentric's Allen head socket end on the passenger side on the front of the shaft......
and yes, they put a grease fitting cap on that end too (bless em)....I just had to find it!
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 09-02-2015 at 11:04 AM.
Thanks, guys....working on this front end reminds my of the '37 Chrysler I used to own....except the '37 was much more modern and conventional in its design!!!
I was "lucky", I have owned a Studebaker Avanti, and they used essentially the same "hidden" camber / caster adjustment process through the grease fitting.
Search complete rebuild 53 -62 front cross member, article in chevy talk by Tom P (dzauto), read it and you will understand how it works and what to do!! Chip
09-01-2015, 08:00 PM
