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Old 09-02-2015, 10:31 AM
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Revfan
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Default Add my Heating Problem to the list

Ok...

Brief history.

The longest I'd ever taking my car out for was about a 1 hour drive... country roads, no real stress. Never (in the year I have had it running) did I have a overheating problem.

I moved house, an needed to drive the car about 2 hours on the Autobahn.

About 45 minutes into the trip, the car started heating up. When it got to about 220, I'd pull over and rest for a while till it got back down, rinse and repeat for the remainder of the last 6 miles or so.

I replaced the Water Pump about a year ago.
I replaced the Thermostat last weekend
Drove the car for about one hour on Sunday, and the heating issue came back. Drove to my buddies house and he had a 66 Re-cored Radiator so we put that in.

On the drive home, no change... still ran hot. Gets to about 220-225 with the Heater ON.

I took out the thermostat today, and made a little drive... got up to about 215 and I called it quits and came back.

Where should I start looking for the problem?

Could it be a bad water pump? I replaced it a year ago because the original one was weeping...

Thanks, in advance!
Old 09-02-2015, 10:50 AM
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5thvet
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Have you checked the actual temperature with an IR gun? I would do that first to see if you even have a problem. Might be the sending unit. Did it ever puke fluid when you pulled over?
Don
Old 09-02-2015, 11:02 AM
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6T7L71CPE
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Do you have a HUGE european front license plate blocking air flow to your radiator?
Old 09-02-2015, 02:18 PM
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leif.anderson93
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Originally Posted by 5thvet
Have you checked the actual temperature with an IR gun? I would do that first to see if you even have a problem. Might be the sending unit. Did it ever puke fluid when you pulled over?
Don
Start here. If the IR gun says your temp gauge is correct you can move on from there. Something as simple as a radiator cap not pressurizing your system can cause overheating. Unusual that it would take 45 minutes to overheat at steady, highway speed...
Old 09-02-2015, 03:40 PM
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Revfan
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I will get an IR gun...
Car never puked fluid
Standard Size Plate... US Plate (to fit in the standard C2 Bracket)
Old 09-02-2015, 03:46 PM
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Mr D.
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Does it run hot in the driveway?
Old 09-02-2015, 03:47 PM
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65GGvert
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I guess the others know what year and what engine you have, nothing in your profile.
The symptoms you describe would make me lean toward an air flow problem at the radiator. I also don't know if you have a/c. Does the air have any other path around, below or above the radiator? Have you checked the cap? Shroud in place?
PS, I agree, first step, IR gun.
Old 09-02-2015, 03:50 PM
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JohnZ
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Originally Posted by Revfan
Drove to my buddies house and he had a 66 Re-cored Radiator so we put that in.
That's a copper/brass radiator - what engine do you have?
Old 09-02-2015, 03:59 PM
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Bobby6T5
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I had a similar problem some years ago, it turned out to be the fan clutch. I replaced it with an after market and solved the problem.
Old 09-02-2015, 04:09 PM
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Viet Nam Vett
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
That's a copper/brass radiator - what engine do you have?
Tend to Agree with The "Z" Master"... Without knowing engine size does ask this question. Plus.. The "Harrison" Rad Is the best rad ever made for the Midyears.

Here's a Link and a Brief description....this is the rad you want for your SB if so equipped.


http://cranescorvettesupply.com/63-6...inum-radiator/

Last edited by Viet Nam Vett; 09-02-2015 at 04:12 PM.
Old 09-02-2015, 04:29 PM
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Revfan
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Sorry Guys...

I have a 67 Vert, but it has a NOM, which is a 66 Vette's 327/300

Yes, it gets hot in the driveway. I took the Thermostat out this afternoon and after about 10 minutes (from cold start) it got up to about 215, or just past the "0" on the 210 straight up and down. Shut it off, came back 20 Minutes later and drove 2 Kilometers to the Base... no Stop lights, 30 MPH and it was probably 218ish on the gauge when I got there.
Old 09-02-2015, 04:36 PM
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You should not be having any problems with a 327/300 overheating. I would start with the timing and work through the process of elimination.

There are a ton of threads out there on this subject.
Old 09-02-2015, 04:58 PM
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SI67
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Originally Posted by Bobby6T5
I had a similar problem some years ago, it turned out to be the fan clutch. I replaced it with an after market and solved the problem.
Alway glad to hear that someone has solved his problem, but it seems strange that a fan clutch would be at the root of highway overheating.

Last edited by SI67; 09-02-2015 at 07:07 PM.
Old 09-02-2015, 05:06 PM
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Chuck Gongloff
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After reading this thread.... the first thing I would check would be the timing.

Check the point gap/dwell, then check the initial timing.

Do the dwell first. Dwell changes timing, but timing will not change dwell.

If the timing is too retarded, it will run hot.

Chuck
Old 09-02-2015, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck Gongloff
After reading this thread.... the first thing I would check would be the timing.

Check the point gap/dwell, then check the initial timing.

Do the dwell first. Dwell changes timing, but timing will not change dwell.

If the timing is too retarded, it will run hot.

Chuck
If the timing is too retarded, it will run hot.

Chuck
The Gentleman With The Steel poker has a Good point..

Hope all is well Chuck.
Old 09-02-2015, 06:59 PM
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Chuck Gongloff
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Originally Posted by Viet Nam Vett
The Gentleman With The Steel poker has a Good point..

Hope all is well Chuck.
Alive and well here in the Swamp, Mark.

Working a lot on the 37 coupe.
Old 09-02-2015, 07:02 PM
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Viet Nam Vett
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Originally Posted by Chuck Gongloff
Alive and well here in the Swamp, Mark.

Working a lot on the 37 coupe.

Good for you..My Best To Pat

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Old 09-02-2015, 08:44 PM
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Considering the particulars of your story I would be suspicious of the water pump you installed. Seems to run hot with 2 different radiators. Runs hot with thermostat in and out.

Of course you still need to check with an IR gun to make sure.

Do you have the vacuum advance hooked up to full vacuum (most have to install a "T" into the line to the choke pull off canister).

What do you have it timed at?
Old 09-03-2015, 02:39 AM
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Westlotorn
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A very quick check to see if you have good flow is to mist cool water on the front of the radiator. It will pull 20-30 degrees of heat out almost instantly. If you temp gauge drops very quickly you have good flow but not adequate cooling. If it does not change quickly you have a flow issue. Blockage/lousy radiator/bad water pump.
I would start with good flow.
Don't ignore the good advice you got on setting the timing, that could be it also.
BTW Rev Fan, my son was just transferred out of Germany and on to Alaska with his Apache group. He shipped his Lingenfelter Vette to Alaska, I hope he finds good storage in a warm garage I don't know if you guys ever hooked up in Germany.
Old 09-03-2015, 07:16 AM
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Revfan
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Westlorn
We did... but briefly. We were both at the auto skills center. I was replacing my clutch, and he was modifying his Exhaust.

Thanks for the tips, I'll start walking through the advise and post back as make progress.


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