jet-tech

I ordered a new Richmond 5-speed o/d from Eckler's, 15% off. http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1963-1981.html
Now I would like some input or advise from forum members that have some experience with pressure plates, flywheels and clutches. I have a 1966 convertible with original 300hp motor that has some performance upgrades (intake manifold and carb). Originally the car had a Power glide trans that was replaced with a TH350 and the rear end is posi with a 3:08 gear. I plan on doing all the work myself and do not want the cost of this update to get out of control. I'm not looking for just the least expensive parts, but good value with some performance. The only rule I have is no made in China parts.


*Bell housing, 621 reproduction?
*flywheel, 153 or 168 tooth
*clutch size, 10-11" (26 input spline)
*pressure plate type
*Linkage, mechanical or Hydraulic.
*Aft trans support bracket

65-StingRay

As far as a good clutch goes - I just put in a McLeod RST dual disc and their 28 lb. flywheel for my new LGT-700 5-spd. It's just broken in and I can't say enough about how well this clutch works for me. Very light pedal pressure, good to 800 HP and easy to install if you just follow the instructions.

65-StingRay

jet-tech

I saw your thread on the LGT-700 install, really nice job. You have a lot more HP than I do and need a clutch setup to handle the BB. I'm looking for a clutch assembly that closer to stock but with a 26 spline input. I'm thinking a 11" GM or LUK clutch and pressure plate that has stock pedal feel might be more in the ballpark. Any recommendations on the flywheel? Thanks for the reply, Tim

vettsplit 63

Which low gear ratio did you choose?

jet-tech

I have a 3:08 rear gear and the 1st gear on the Richmond is 3.33.

Mid Year Man

Will the Richmond fit without tunnel mods?

jet-tech

There has been other post on the forum from members installing the 5-speed o/d Richmond without modding the tunnel. The 6-speed Richmond has a larger case and may need some tunnel mod. Tim.

Sky65

I am using a Richmond 5spd non-OD trans. I really like. Just a few pieces of information. You cannot use your "factory slip yoke" unless you have T400 ro M22 trans. The output shaft is a 32 spline. M20 and M21 use a small shaft and 27 splines.

You will need yoke.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p999...ssion_133.html

The yoke uses a 1330 u-joint. If you have a stock c2 driveshaft your u-joints are 1310 on both ends.

So you need a combination joint to connect the new yoke to your driveshaft.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p377...t_3_732_x.html

Use
Stock 10.5 clutch
Stock bellhousing
Stock flywheel
Stock starter
Change disc from 10 spline to 26 spline

I would keep the stock 10.5 clutch and just change the disc from a 10 spline to a 26 spline. If you go aftermarket on the clutch I am using a McLeod Super Street Pro 75225. Good to 500 hp. I had some problems with it at first but got it sorted out and works well. Stock pedal feel. I would also keep the stock mechanical clutch linkage. It works fine. Just make sure you get the right release bearing. Length and bore diameter. If you use an aftermarket clutch you may want an adjustable clutch fork pivot ball depending on how the clucth sets up.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-700110/overview/

Tom

jet-tech

Thanks for the info Tom. How is the pedal feel with the McLoed pressure plate compared to a stock pressure plate? I can buy 10.5" or 11" LUK clutch and pressure for about $80, sounds cheap but I have read positive reviews on them. Has anyone reading my post have experience with LUK clutches? Can't seem to find a real GM replacement clutch for early cars.

Sky65

Pedal feel is fine. Not hard at all. If your engine is close to stock I would think a stock pressure plate would be fine. I expect your have a 10.5 clutch now and that is fine IMO. No need for an 11". Keep it simple. Just use a 26 spline disc with stock clutch and release bearing. GET A NEW OILITE PILOT BUSHING. I suggest getting one from forum member Auto Gear. FLAPS bushings can be just about anything.

Tom

jet-tech

Right now the only part that I have purchased is the Richmond trans. I need everything from pedals, linkage, Bellhousing and clutch assy. And soon enough I will have a TH350 with only about 2000 miles on it for sale. Tim

vettsplit 63

I think you chose correctly with your 3.08 You will have about the same low gear multiplication ratio as if you had a close ratio 2.20 4 speed and a 4.56. Even if you choose to use one of the multi disc clutches, I don't believe you will experience any clutch shudder or chatter upon start off at an intersection.

jet-tech

Question for Tom (Sky65), What Richmond trans part number did you buy?. Ekler's just informed me that the trans they ordered is not available. And it gets worse, Their web site shows a 5-speed o/d. http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1963-1981.html They told me that they ordered 7021710A, thats the none O/D trans part number. Tim
http://www.richmondgear.com/pdf/RG22.pdf

Sky65

Mine is the 7021710A. No longer available. Summit sells the OD one. It has a different 1st gear ratio. It would still work with the 3.08. As a comparison an M20/21 with stock 2.2 1st gear and 4.11 rear would be 9.02 overall and a 4.56 rear would be 10.03. The 3.06 1st gear of the Summit trans with 3.08 rear would end up at 9.42. Some where between the two.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rm...526c/overview/

Here are the instructions for the no-od trans install. I suspect the od trans is very similar or the same.

RG_Corvette_install.pdf

Tom

Sky65

There are of course other 5 spd conversion options. Tremec and T5 for example. I have no experience with them but there are plenty of posts regarding both. Just continue with your research as you are now. Be sure to consider 1st gear ratio, top gear ratio and diff ratio. To me they are the most important. How do you want it to pull from a stop and rpm range you want at cruise.

Tom

jet-tech

Thanks Tom. Looks like either p/n 7020526A 3.33 1st gear with 26 spline or 7020610A with 10 spline would work. I just spoke to a sales rep from Eklers. She said that Brian Kimble Director of Sales and Customer Service will contact me tomorrow. We will see if Ecklers makes good on their deal with me and supply a 5-speed Richmond O/D trans that is available for the price that was contracted. Or they just say sorry we don't really know what we are doing. We didn't mean to order the wrong part (non O/D trans) that is no longer availible even though are web site shows an O/D trans. http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1963-1981.html Tim

shft22

I have one of these on my 66 BB. The case of the Richmond 5sp-OD and the 6sp is the same dimensions.
You will have to modify the tunnel a bit in order to fit the shift mechanism. I will look for some pictures and post them.
A critical aspect of the installation is the adjustment of the shift rods, it is possible for 2nd and 4th gear to be engaged at the same time, there is no detent between 2nd and 4th.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...sion-help.html

shft22

Here are some picture of my install. Transmission still on the car and has had no issues since the problem above. Notice the modification to the cross member. Not only did I made it removable but also the actual transmission mount was lowered from the factory location.

jet-tech

Thanks for responding and I have lots of questions. I like the removable cross member, did you weld the plates on with the body on? And I see you welded your trans support to your crossmember. Great idea. I was going to buy the trans support from SilverSportTransmission and modify their support to fit. Did you use the Hurst or Long shifter? My Richmond will come with a Long shifter. And finally, what flywheel did use? 30lbs or light weight. Thanks, Tim

shft22

The flywheel was factory, the idea was to remove it at a later time when the clutch died, here we are 5 years later and it still in there. The shifter is a Long, you may want to replace the level with a shorter one.
I can not see how anyone could get the transmission in without a removable cross member. We did welded the plates with the body on, I insulated the body with a piece of sheet metal, if I can remember correctly, while welding.
I also used a bullet bell housing, that was another adventure, I had to grind off the top area of the flange because it would touch the firewall right behind the distributor, but well worth it, I have always been afraid of a clutch explosion going thru my legs.
After you mount the transmission to the engine and have the shifter and drive shaft in place you can play with the rear height in order to weld the support at the right spot, that is what we did.
Hope this helps, I remember it was a difficult project but to day the best enhancement I have do to the car.