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Test fit the LS3 today. Had to make minor adjustment to motor mounts on frame side. Good thing is the mounts are part of a removable cross member so I could remove it and modify it. Re-test fit problem solved. Now I have to bodywork it and repaint it then set motor back in for last time..
A/C lines made and installed. Power steering reservoir and hoses installed. Heater hoses made and installed. motor is in for last time. Trans goes in tomorrow.
One big job out of the way is installing and hiding the LS engine and Trans wiring. Anybody that's ever done one of these knows how tough it is to hide it all. I put the ECM behind pass kick panel. Fuse box for connect and cruise under pass. fender area. There was already s close out panel made to cover this area. Since I did the last one they have made the Trans controller much smaller. I installed that on inside of frame rail out of site. Once it's all buttoned up the LS wiring should be hard to see.
Bruce,
Your car is excellent.
Here is a picture of my 54 custom, restomod, modified Corvette that I did in the 1990's. Date on pics is incorrect.
I actually built it for my wife. Small block, turbo 350, Hartzz Top.
Nothing major like yours but a cool car for the day.
It was just on Ebay for the 4th time, looks horrible now, bright yellow, etc....
It is a very early car (103X)with many original parts that the guy I sold it to removed and threw away. Convertible top flippers, shifter, gauges, etc.
Bruce B
Had a new radiator built at a local shop. The one that was in it didn't have a radiator fill it was in the upper hose. I had a split tank built with both hoses on the same side of radiator.. If the radiator filler neck looks like its at the wrong angle in the first picture it's because when rad is in car rad is at an angle and filler neck is level then. I also had this one made a little smaller. The other one was so big you couldn't lift it out the top you had to drop entire radiator support with radiator in it to get it out. It's much more user friendly this way. Won't be long it will be running and moving under it's own power. Won't get much done next week going to SEMA show in Vegas
Had a new radiator built at a local shop. The one that was in it didn't have a radiator fill it was in the upper hose. I had a split tank built with both hoses on the same side of radiator.. If the radiator filler neck looks like its at the wrong angle in the first picture it's because when rad is in car rad is at an angle and filler neck is level then. I also had this one made a little smaller. The other one was so big you couldn't lift it out the top you had to drop entire radiator support with radiator in it to get it out. It's much more user friendly this way. Won't be long it will be running and moving under it's own power. Won't get much done next week going to SEMA show in Vegas
Haven't posted an update in a while. I was at SEMA show last week. Got my Dynotech drive shaft and installed it. Can't say enough about these guys. You download an order form take the measurements they ask for on form and it's at your door in 3-5 days. I have my air induction installed. Also fabbed up a cover for the ugly LS wiring that runs from pass front wheel tub to engine. Just need to paint it. Back on it full time now.
LS wiring running to motor
Sheet metal cover to hide wiring
Dynotech driveshaft. Fit perfect right out of the box.
I also made molds of fuel rail covers. I haven't found an engine cover I would be happy with so I'm going to make my own so I need to start with fuel rail covers and fill in from there. Here's pics of process and finished molds.
Molds before I popped fuel rail covers out of them. Learned how to make molds while building the 62 restomod.
Finished molds. Next step is to glue them onto boards so they can't move around while making parts.
09-21-2015, 11:20 PM
