looking at this 1966 Convertible advise please
09-19-2015, 07:04 PM
#1
Racer
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looking at this 1966 Convertible advise please
Thanks to all who have chimed in and given me advise and food for thought on other cars I was looking at. Here is a 66 convertible I will be looking at tomorrow afternoon. I don't know what this means but the car has been listed on CL for a while now.
https://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/5189003091.html
I was also interested Roberts427, the red 67 convertible in CT for sale, but want to try to stay under 40K
Thank you all in advance
https://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/5189003091.html
I was also interested Roberts427, the red 67 convertible in CT for sale, but want to try to stay under 40K
Thank you all in advance
09-19-2015, 08:08 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
I am in the same boat as you and have been looking for a while. I can understand at the motor being changed over the last 50 years but why would you go from a side exhaust to a rear exhaust car leads me to question the car. You are close so you can check it out to see if that is true but being in AZ I would pass even though the price seems very good.
09-20-2015, 09:55 AM
#4
Team Owner
Because you were asking for advice about a car and not selling or buying one that's listed by a Forum member...
09-20-2015, 10:11 AM
#5
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not many pictures to off of. looks like a decent driver if you always keep the hood shut. not sure how the seller can claim it was a BB. it would need a good look over of the frame and bird cage
09-20-2015, 12:15 PM
#6
Im no expert, but if I were looking for a car these would be my concerns:
Soft top fabric looks like it was installed poorly onto the frame, loose moreso on right than left, several loose waves in rear window, overall not a good job
While some things look like they were done on the rear suspension, other items were ignored (see cross member sombrero mount bushings), ask if rear differential fluid changed; this makes me wonder about rest and front suspension (check those out closely)
Inspect paint and chrome closely
Check bird cage for rust, as well as rest of frame since this is a Long Island car several blocks from the water. Hurricane Sandy came pretty far in, but this area of L.I. was somewhat protected
Ask for proof of 427/425 HP engine. Check side louver panels to see if the tabs were made for factory side pipes, or if they are still there
I think the price is too high for what it is: 350 engine not original, is just a driver. I'd offer more like $30k-$35k. You can drive it as is, or put more money than worth into correcting some things. Good luck
https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtoo.../VehicleSearch
Soft top fabric looks like it was installed poorly onto the frame, loose moreso on right than left, several loose waves in rear window, overall not a good job
While some things look like they were done on the rear suspension, other items were ignored (see cross member sombrero mount bushings), ask if rear differential fluid changed; this makes me wonder about rest and front suspension (check those out closely)
Inspect paint and chrome closely
Check bird cage for rust, as well as rest of frame since this is a Long Island car several blocks from the water. Hurricane Sandy came pretty far in, but this area of L.I. was somewhat protected
Ask for proof of 427/425 HP engine. Check side louver panels to see if the tabs were made for factory side pipes, or if they are still there
I think the price is too high for what it is: 350 engine not original, is just a driver. I'd offer more like $30k-$35k. You can drive it as is, or put more money than worth into correcting some things. Good luck
https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtoo.../VehicleSearch
09-20-2015, 12:43 PM
#7
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St. Jude Donor '10
No way to tell from these pictures if it was a BB car. It seems to have the proper caps on the rear end and does not appear to have an overflow tank. Seems to have a HD seven leaf spring. But anything can be changed. Lots of BB motors were removed in the 70's due to the gas crisis and rationing. Without an inspection it's hard to give difinitive advice but check the frame for rust and if you like the car go for it.
09-20-2015, 01:32 PM
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Might be a solid place to start. If he's asking 39.9K, you might get it for a decent price, subject to a good inspection. I would pay particular attention yo the frame and bird cage for starters. A big block Nassau blue car would be a desirable car.
Look for all the proper signs if you are willing to pay for and want an ex-big block car. If the seller is adding that to the price, it should have the evidence, if not, it is a generic ex-small block car.
Look for all the proper signs if you are willing to pay for and want an ex-big block car. If the seller is adding that to the price, it should have the evidence, if not, it is a generic ex-small block car.
09-20-2015, 01:40 PM
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Unless the car came with its born with block or real GM docs like a POP or sales invoice. I would never pay more for a story. You buy the car for what ever it is now. It may be on the high side of a NOM but if it's a solid car it very well could be worth the asking price. The interior looks clean. That saves a buyer 3K to look new. If the paint and chrome is decent that helps as well It's by no means a show car but I would drive it.
09-20-2015, 01:58 PM
#10
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I thought ALL 66's were once big block cars ! Hah !
Seriously, it looks to me like a nice car for a driver. Again, check the frame and birdcage. 35k would be a fair deal. It's coming winter and prices are falling. Look sharp and take someone who knows the cars.
Seriously, it looks to me like a nice car for a driver. Again, check the frame and birdcage. 35k would be a fair deal. It's coming winter and prices are falling. Look sharp and take someone who knows the cars.
09-20-2015, 03:06 PM
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09-20-2015, 05:38 PM
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Curious how the look went?
09-20-2015, 10:23 PM
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Should have brought my camera to post some pics. Current owner has owned the car for 8 years. In that time he has put in many new parts, brakes, suspension, lines, gel battery, tires, rebuilt tranny, clutch, too many for me to mention or remember. Mechanically it drove well, shifted just fine, stopped straight, etc... I am no mechanic and have no reason not to believe what he had to say. After a test drive I opened the hood and saw some little pools of oil under/by the air cleaner and some oil leaking behind the air cleaner, its hard for me to describe the location. He told me it must be coming from the valve covers and the gasket may need to be replaced. BTW, he has a oversized 2 car garage with a lift in it and a 67 convertible in the middle of a total restore, basically the body only, no interior, motor, nothing but a primer colored body. He also has a 67 coupe at an exotic car showroom which he is looking to get a high price for. I did not ask.
Getting away from the mechanics, I was told the bird cage and frame are in good condition, he pulled the rubber molding?? covering the bird cage to show me no rust or rot, again I have to believe him because I did not really know what he was showing me.
On the dash, the covering (the half moon part that is on the top and over the gauges) on the drivers side had 2 cracks. The passenger side was replaced. I asked why he did not replace both and was told the drivers side is much harder b/c of the gauges and wires. With that said the colors on the right and left are a little off. The amp gauge does not work and the radio lights stay on all the time, not original radio, he said thats just how it was hooked up??? There is a switch by the gel cell battery for a quick disconnect so the battery does not drain if the car is not used for extended periods. Other little issues like the rear where the tail pipes come out seems "off" a little, meaning it does not line up/fit right because it was born with side pipes and it is not the original body part. Last there are lots of cosmetic issues with fine cracking but at 10 feet you don't see them. Also the windshield has a fair size "pit" maybe from being hit with road debris.
With that all said for the right price it is a nice driver. I am going to sleep on it and may or not make an offer I am comfortable with then its up to him to sell or not.
Getting away from the mechanics, I was told the bird cage and frame are in good condition, he pulled the rubber molding?? covering the bird cage to show me no rust or rot, again I have to believe him because I did not really know what he was showing me.
On the dash, the covering (the half moon part that is on the top and over the gauges) on the drivers side had 2 cracks. The passenger side was replaced. I asked why he did not replace both and was told the drivers side is much harder b/c of the gauges and wires. With that said the colors on the right and left are a little off. The amp gauge does not work and the radio lights stay on all the time, not original radio, he said thats just how it was hooked up??? There is a switch by the gel cell battery for a quick disconnect so the battery does not drain if the car is not used for extended periods. Other little issues like the rear where the tail pipes come out seems "off" a little, meaning it does not line up/fit right because it was born with side pipes and it is not the original body part. Last there are lots of cosmetic issues with fine cracking but at 10 feet you don't see them. Also the windshield has a fair size "pit" maybe from being hit with road debris.
With that all said for the right price it is a nice driver. I am going to sleep on it and may or not make an offer I am comfortable with then its up to him to sell or not.
09-20-2015, 10:24 PM
#14
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the 66 vert
Should have brought my camera to post some pics. Current owner has owned the car for 8 years. In that time he has put in many new parts, brakes, suspension, lines, gel battery, tires, rebuilt tranny, clutch, too many for me to mention or remember. Mechanically it drove well, shifted just fine, stopped straight, etc... I am no mechanic and have no reason not to believe what he had to say. After a test drive I opened the hood and saw some little pools of oil under/by the air cleaner and some oil leaking behind the air cleaner, its hard for me to describe the location. He told me it must be coming from the valve covers and the gasket may need to be replaced. BTW, he has a oversized 2 car garage with a lift in it and a 67 convertible in the middle of a total restore, basically the body only, no interior, motor, nothing but a primer colored body. He also has a 67 coupe at an exotic car showroom which he is looking to get a high price for. I did not ask.
Getting away from the mechanics, I was told the bird cage and frame are in good condition, he pulled the rubber molding?? covering the bird cage to show me no rust or rot, again I have to believe him because I did not really know what he was showing me.
On the dash, the covering (the half moon part that is on the top and over the gauges) on the drivers side had 2 cracks. The passenger side was replaced. I asked why he did not replace both and was told the drivers side is much harder b/c of the gauges and wires. With that said the colors on the right and left are a little off. The amp gauge does not work and the radio lights stay on all the time, not original radio, he said thats just how it was hooked up??? There is a switch by the gel cell battery for a quick disconnect so the battery does not drain if the car is not used for extended periods. Other little issues like the rear where the tail pipes come out seems "off" a little, meaning it does not line up/fit right because it was born with side pipes and it is not the original body part. Last there are lots of cosmetic issues with fine cracking but at 10 feet you don't see them. Also the windshield has a fair size "pit" maybe from being hit with road debris.
With that all said for the right price it is a nice driver. I am going to sleep on it and may or not make an offer I am comfortable with then its up to him to sell or not.
Getting away from the mechanics, I was told the bird cage and frame are in good condition, he pulled the rubber molding?? covering the bird cage to show me no rust or rot, again I have to believe him because I did not really know what he was showing me.
On the dash, the covering (the half moon part that is on the top and over the gauges) on the drivers side had 2 cracks. The passenger side was replaced. I asked why he did not replace both and was told the drivers side is much harder b/c of the gauges and wires. With that said the colors on the right and left are a little off. The amp gauge does not work and the radio lights stay on all the time, not original radio, he said thats just how it was hooked up??? There is a switch by the gel cell battery for a quick disconnect so the battery does not drain if the car is not used for extended periods. Other little issues like the rear where the tail pipes come out seems "off" a little, meaning it does not line up/fit right because it was born with side pipes and it is not the original body part. Last there are lots of cosmetic issues with fine cracking but at 10 feet you don't see them. Also the windshield has a fair size "pit" maybe from being hit with road debris.
With that all said for the right price it is a nice driver. I am going to sleep on it and may or not make an offer I am comfortable with then its up to him to sell or not.
09-20-2015, 10:44 PM
#15
Race Director
Should have brought my camera to post some pics. Current owner has owned the car for 8 years. In that time he has put in many new parts, brakes, suspension, lines, gel battery, tires, rebuilt tranny, clutch, too many for me to mention or remember. Mechanically it drove well, shifted just fine, stopped straight, etc... I am no mechanic and have no reason not to believe what he had to say. After a test drive I opened the hood and saw some little pools of oil under/by the air cleaner and some oil leaking behind the air cleaner, its hard for me to describe the location. He told me it must be coming from the valve covers and the gasket may need to be replaced. BTW, he has a oversized 2 car garage with a lift in it and a 67 convertible in the middle of a total restore, basically the body only, no interior, motor, nothing but a primer colored body. He also has a 67 coupe at an exotic car showroom which he is looking to get a high price for. I did not ask.
Getting away from the mechanics, I was told the bird cage and frame are in good condition, he pulled the rubber molding?? covering the bird cage to show me no rust or rot, again I have to believe him because I did not really know what he was showing me.
On the dash, the covering (the half moon part that is on the top and over the gauges) on the drivers side had 2 cracks. The passenger side was replaced. I asked why he did not replace both and was told the drivers side is much harder b/c of the gauges and wires. With that said the colors on the right and left are a little off. The amp gauge does not work and the radio lights stay on all the time, not original radio, he said thats just how it was hooked up??? There is a switch by the gel cell battery for a quick disconnect so the battery does not drain if the car is not used for extended periods. Other little issues like the rear where the tail pipes come out seems "off" a little, meaning it does not line up/fit right because it was born with side pipes and it is not the original body part. Last there are lots of cosmetic issues with fine cracking but at 10 feet you don't see them. Also the windshield has a fair size "pit" maybe from being hit with road debris.
With that all said for the right price it is a nice driver. I am going to sleep on it and may or not make an offer I am comfortable with then its up to him to sell or not.
Getting away from the mechanics, I was told the bird cage and frame are in good condition, he pulled the rubber molding?? covering the bird cage to show me no rust or rot, again I have to believe him because I did not really know what he was showing me.
On the dash, the covering (the half moon part that is on the top and over the gauges) on the drivers side had 2 cracks. The passenger side was replaced. I asked why he did not replace both and was told the drivers side is much harder b/c of the gauges and wires. With that said the colors on the right and left are a little off. The amp gauge does not work and the radio lights stay on all the time, not original radio, he said thats just how it was hooked up??? There is a switch by the gel cell battery for a quick disconnect so the battery does not drain if the car is not used for extended periods. Other little issues like the rear where the tail pipes come out seems "off" a little, meaning it does not line up/fit right because it was born with side pipes and it is not the original body part. Last there are lots of cosmetic issues with fine cracking but at 10 feet you don't see them. Also the windshield has a fair size "pit" maybe from being hit with road debris.
With that all said for the right price it is a nice driver. I am going to sleep on it and may or not make an offer I am comfortable with then its up to him to sell or not.
I don't understand where that could have been. I know of no place - at least on my '67 convertible, which I have owned for 44 years - where the birdcage can be easily accessible just by pulling a piece of soft trim.
Typically the easiest places to view it are by pulling the glove box liner (fairly easy) and looking up thru the opening to see the dash framework, or by removing the inner windshield post trim (a more difficult multi step process) to view the upper part of the bird cage. The bottom rail of the bird cage (sitting on top of the frame) can be viewed by removing the door sill trim panels.
Was it any of those locations?
Last edited by tuxnharley; 09-21-2015 at 01:37 PM. Reason: clarification
09-21-2015, 08:28 AM
#16
Go see other ones before making up your mind on this one. I have to wonder if the little things he didn't bother sorting out are indications of more (why do all the rest of that work and not change valve cover gaskets if that's the problem?). Yes, he did a lot of work, but it doesn't seem like this '66 was a priority compared to the others; get it drivable to sell, etc.
Good luck, look at others
Good luck, look at others
09-21-2015, 06:31 PM
#18
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09-21-2015, 09:33 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
On another note... You could contact a Local Corvette Club Or a Some one in your area who is a Member of the "NCRS" and pay a very small fee to have some one who knows the 63-67 Midyears to come with you and inspect it before you buy.
It's better to know what you'll have to spend now then later. My $.02 worth is to never buy a Classic car like a Corvette unless you know what to look for.
The forum members are a Great help and we have real experts here but the best way to buy a Car that your looking at is to have the car in fornt of you with a Corvette person.
Again...Just My $.02 worth. Good luck on your quest.
It's better to know what you'll have to spend now then later. My $.02 worth is to never buy a Classic car like a Corvette unless you know what to look for.
The forum members are a Great help and we have real experts here but the best way to buy a Car that your looking at is to have the car in fornt of you with a Corvette person.
Again...Just My $.02 worth. Good luck on your quest.
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