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Bill,
Nice clean tank setup.
I used a Rock Vally tank with a in tank pump on my Ramjet 62.
What brand is the pump?
I love your setup, no doubt lots of thought went into it.
Very nice.
Bruce B
Bruce
mine is also a Rock Valley tank that I ordered with the pump already installed; part # 119-1510-SR for the whole thing (which seems to be a generic #)
I don't know what the pump is, but I seem to remember that they told me that it was one that is readily available and if I remember correctly is one that was used on mustangs, among other things. I have emailed them to find out, but have not heard back yet.
Bill
To answer your original question, when I was researching my conversion I received some help from a guy that was running 4 sets of 2 injectors on short rail fuel rails fed by tubing as you described so it has been done and does work. I went with 8 individual lines off a manifold block under the plenum.
Also, just a heads up, reworking the linkage with offset throttle pivot location is a bit fiddly so some patience will be required there.
To answer your original question, when I was researching my conversion I received some help from a guy that was running 4 sets of 2 injectors on short rail fuel rails fed by tubing as you described so it has been done and does work. I went with 8 individual lines off a manifold block under the plenum.
Also, just a heads up, reworking the linkage with offset throttle pivot location is a bit fiddly so some patience will be required there.
Grampy
Yeah, I thought that linkage might be tricky.
Is your air intake from the wheel well? Also, why the alternator on the left? Doesn't look like you have an A/C compressor on the right.
It would appear that in order to keep the stock appearing air cleaner, I'll need to use a March serpentine belt set-up, as I have the compressor on the right, the alternator and PS on the left. Getting pretty crowded in there, need to conserve space
Is your air intake from the wheel well? Also, why the alternator on the left? Doesn't look like you have an A/C compressor on the right.
It would appear that in order to keep the stock appearing air cleaner, I'll need to use a March serpentine belt set-up, as I have the compressor on the right, the alternator and PS on the left. Getting pretty crowded in there, need to conserve space
Mike
speaking of "crowded", I just finished changing my spark plugs, it took me 6 hours....
Bill
speaking of "crowded", I just finished changing my spark plugs, it took me 6 hours....
Bill
6 hours is an Olympic quality time...
I'm usually a candidate for urgent care when I'm done, the backs of my hands are a mass of scars from past encounters with shielding. I think Chevy designers took great pride in placing razor sharp sheet metal in the precise locations where your hand would most likely slip off of the wrench...
Yes, the air intake is from the wheel well sorta. The air intake is behind the grill. I fabbed a fiberglass duct to move the air over the tire to back over the inner wheel well and mounted the top of a 2010 Hemi Challenger air cleaner assy on the inner well. Min cross section is 25 sq in so plenty of air.
You are right, space is at a premium and the part I used was empty.
The primary reason the alt is on the left is the car is a 66. A/C is next phase. I have also have a remote PS reservoir on the driver side and a PS cooler matrix where the FI port in the rad support would be.
To answer your original question, when I was researching my conversion I received some help from a guy that was running 4 sets of 2 injectors on short rail fuel rails fed by tubing as you described so it has been done and does work. I went with 8 individual lines off a manifold block under the plenum.
Also, just a heads up, reworking the linkage with offset throttle pivot location is a bit fiddly so some patience will be required there.
Grampy
I love the finish on your valve covers and plenum, Grampy. How'd you make 'em look so pretty?
Must be the photo. I've owned the car for 46 years and the covers have never had anything other than usual cleaning. I had to weld repair a crack in a runner of the doghouse (ugly, ugly material to weld) maybe 35 years ago and I glass beaded it at low pressure when I was finishing the repair but all the die cast parts are original finish.
I'm usually a candidate for urgent care when I'm done, the backs of my hands are a mass of scars from past encounters with shielding. I think Chevy designers took great pride in placing razor sharp sheet metal in the precise locations where your hand would most likely slip off of the wrench...
I have no shielding except for the distributor cover, not necessary... BUT, all the space on each side is taken up by the alternator, steering column shaft, motor mount, power steering pump, master cylinder, and the aircleaner on the driver's side and the a/c compressor, hoses and brackets, motor mount, heater hoses control valve, and the relocated expansion tank on the passenger side.
Bill
I have no shielding except for the distributor cover, not necessary... BUT, all the space on each side is taken up by the alternator, steering column shaft, motor mount, power steering pump, master cylinder, and the aircleaner on the driver's side and the a/c compressor, hoses and brackets, motor mount, heater hoses control valve, and the relocated expansion tank on the passenger side.
Bill
That's a 'crowd' alright. I'm gonna be right with you there, soon. The fact that I can actually see a spark plug on Grampy's build temps me to use headers instead of manifolds...
Last edited by Vettrocious; 11-04-2015 at 05:29 AM.
I'm starting to route the rear lines now. Looks like the best place would be in front of the tank (as is mocked up in the pic), but I don't have my other car here to check the clearance.. Anybody know if there is space in front of the tank to route a line (or two)?
The two stainless steel lines from the front will be inside the R.H. frame rail (in the manner normal for one line) and will exit from the big hole inside rear of that rail to join the hoses at the back...
Thanks,
Mike
Last edited by Vettrocious; 11-17-2015 at 04:49 PM.
it was easier for me to just attach the lines to the outside of the frame.
Bill
I like those clamps, haven't seen those lately. I may try to find some for the attachment of the two steel lines to the inboard side of the front frame rail..
Last edited by Vettrocious; 11-17-2015 at 05:20 PM.
I like those clamps, haven't seen those lately. I may try to find some for the attachment of the two steel lines to the inboard side of the front frame rail..
Those are "Adel" insulated clamps - Jeg's and Summit have them in lots of sizes.
11-03-2015, 12:49 PM
