Newbs62

I know the topic of repairing the screw holes in fiberglass has been discussed on here. Went back and read a few. I know there has to be a quick easy way to fix these. I am currently working on putting my new door panels on that I purchased from a fellow forum member. But, many of the holes are as we say in Ky. "wollered" out. If any of you have a easy fix, I would appreciate the help.

63split63

You could use the upholstery screws with the chrome washers . Unless the holes are already too big .

Bill

Nowhere Man

I fill in the holes with a 2 part epoxy and let set overnight. then drill a pilot hole and screw in the screw

mcb55-210

I agree. Worked for me.

Mike

Mike Geary

plastic screw anchors, small.

super glue them in so they don't spin.

Newbs62

Thanks both Mikes for the ideas. I like both suggestions and they are both things I can do. I wasn't sure if the two-part epoxy would be "thick" enough to really work but will try that first. If that doesn't work will try the plastic anchors.

Easy Rhino

I am totally familiar with wollered out holes, as well a boogered up screw heads (usually Phillips head screws), as well as other terms from the hollers, having come from so back up in the hills of eastern Kentucky that we had to get out in the car and drive up to the top of the hill to listen to the local Wildcat network affiliate to hear the game.

I kind of use a three-step process for these types of oversized holes, beginning with simple use of a tie-strap run into the hole, then stick the screw in after it, tightening the screw, and then cutting off the tail ends of the tie wrap after the screw is tight.

If that doesn't work, I may go to Kieth's (nowhere man) version.

If the hole is too big, I then go to the plastic screw anchor, with or without epoxy, depending on the situation.

In extreme cases, I may actually have to woller out the hole even bigger.

gbvette62

I like the idea of pop riveting or epoxying small pieces of tin or sheet metal, over the original holes. Once done, put new screw holes in the metal, and you'll never have to worry about "wollered" out screw holes again.

Newbs62

Thanks for the help fellow Wildcat fan. I'm at the far end of the state about 10 miles from where the Ohio and Mississippi meet. Pretty flat here and easy to get the game. I grew up listening to Cawood on my radio. Anyway, I'm not the greatest mechanic and I believe I can do what you and gbvette62 have suggested. Gonna try it tomorrow night after work.

Easy Rhino

Cawood Ledford - loved that guy.

Good luck with it.

JohnZ

Corvette Central has sold that "repair kit" for screw holes in fiberglass for over 20 years - pre-drilled steel plates, pop-rivets to attach them behind the panel with the oversize hole, then drill a pilot hole exactly where you need it.

jimh_1962

Yep!

And you could get away with the paper clip trick where you cut one then bend it so one end goes inside of the hole. That should hold too!

Kerrmudgeon

Another fan here of plastic wall achors. tap 'em in and use the original screw. no one knows.

stratplus

Did anyone notice that Kerms Avitar has a pair, of sun glasses on

Nowhere Man

There's glasses in the picture

tubman

On my '68, I used special pop-rivet inserts that are threaded inside. You set them with a pop-rivet gun and unscrew the actuator (which doesn't break off like a regular pop-rivet). I have had no problem with finding machine screws that exactly match the heads of the sheet metal-type screws originally used. It provides a high-quality permanent repair. They are relatively inexpensive, and who doesn't have a pop-rivet gun? Also, no waiting for epoxy to set up or relying on "Super-Glue".

thoyer

I used this approach on the 58 but also reinforced the wall anchor with some 2 part epoxy around it. Works well.

Tom