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DIY Zinc Plating - easier than I thought

Old 11-20-2015, 10:40 AM
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jusplainwacky
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I have to admit I felt like a kid doing a science fair project...it was not only fun, but rewarding. I think it only cost me less than 10 dollars.
The ability to do something myself gives me a sense of freedom from having to pay someone else...knowing it's probably costing them 10 bucks and charging me 200.
Old 11-24-2015, 06:38 PM
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wilbur
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Well I gave it a try and I think the results were excellent this is just a test bolt that I used. The bolt was covered in surface rust to start.

Thanks Dennis





Last edited by wilbur; 11-24-2015 at 06:44 PM.
Old 11-24-2015, 07:18 PM
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jusplainwacky
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Excellent!!!

I'm no pro at this by any means, but you may want to use some better wire that is not rusted as that will contaminate your solution. I used stainless wire I had from my MIG welder. Online I have seen a lot of people use copper wire.
Old 11-24-2015, 07:21 PM
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Easy Rhino
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Originally Posted by wilbur
Well I gave it a try and I think the results were excellent this is just a test bolt that I used. The bolt was covered in surface rust to start.

Thanks Dennis




That does look pretty good. Intake manifold bolt?
Old 11-24-2015, 07:32 PM
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wilbur
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Actually the wire I am using is a new coat hanger it isn't rusty. I'm not too sure what the bolt was originally used for.
Old 11-24-2015, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by wilbur
Well I gave it a try and I think the results were excellent this is just a test bolt that I used. The bolt was covered in surface rust to start.

Thanks Dennis




Are you annealing those bolts after zinc plating to avoid hydrogen embrittlement failure?
Old 11-24-2015, 07:56 PM
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John, I thought hydrogen embrittlement was only a consideration in nuclear reactors.

Actually, I suppose any high moisture high temperature environment could be susceptible.
Old 11-24-2015, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Rhino
John, I thought hydrogen embrittlement was only a consideration in nuclear reactors.
Nope. There isn't a bolt manufacturer in the world that doesn't anneal every batch of zinc-plated bolts; if they miss a batch, they'll eventually fail.
Old 11-24-2015, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
Nope. There isn't a bolt manufacturer in the world that doesn't anneal every batch of zinc-plated bolts; if they miss a batch, they'll eventually fail.
A guy can learn something every day, hanging out on this forum. Thanks, John. Would it be safe to presume that any steel part that's been zinc plated would be similarly embrittled?

Live well,

SJW
Old 11-24-2015, 08:15 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by SJW
A guy can learn something every day, hanging out on this forum. Thanks, John. Would it be safe to presume that any steel part that's been zinc plated would be similarly embrittled?

Live well,

SJW
Yes - how the part is stressed in operation determines its likelihood of failure. Zinc-plated bolts should be annealed at 275*F-300*F for 2-3 hours to drive off the entrained hydrogen molecules.
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Old 11-24-2015, 08:44 PM
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Thanks John I didn't know that
Old 11-24-2015, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
Yes - how the part is stressed in operation determines its likelihood of failure. Zinc-plated bolts should be annealed at 275*F-300*F for 2-3 hours to drive off the entrained hydrogen molecules.
This would then be recommended for all steel parts that we might try to zinc plate -- such as the OP's hood latches, etc?

Thanks for educating us once again!

Live well,

SJW
Old 11-25-2015, 06:20 AM
  #33  
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Bubba says:

"Hold my beer man. Watch how shiny I can make this rusty cr@p with these here chemy-cals!"

Watching some youtube videos is not "research"...

Zinc plating is a sacrificial coating and professional shops apply treatments after the plating to extend its life. I give the home brew stuff above about 4 months in Florida humidity...if it doesn't shatter first.

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 11-25-2015 at 06:44 AM.
Old 11-25-2015, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by SJW
This would then be recommended for all steel parts that we might try to zinc plate -- such as the OP's hood latches, etc?

Thanks for educating us once again!

Live well,

SJW
Parts like hood latches are very lightly stressed, but bolts are HIGHLY stressed - that's how they achieve and maintain clamping force in the joint they're holding together.
Old 11-25-2015, 10:31 PM
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About the only time you have to worry about hydrogen embrittlement is with High Strength Steel which has a high carbon that interacts with the plating...otherwise it's really not an issue.

I give the home brew stuff above about 4 months in Florida humidity...if it doesn't shatter first.
I'll let you know Frank, but I highly doubt it.

Just to clarify...I did not zinc coat the bolts.

Last edited by jusplainwacky; 11-25-2015 at 10:32 PM.
Old 11-25-2015, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill32
I've never used it but, an inexpensive way to get shiny parts right out of the bath may be:

http://www.caswellplating.com/copy-c...ener-4-oz.html

I used Caswell's black oxide on a lit of my original bolts, it works well for what it is.
I have used Caswell's chemicals and expendables for many years. I keep a 10 gallon zinc plating tank ready in the shop at all times. My tank has a sealed cover, so I can leave it for months on end with no use without evaporation. I use a variable DC power supply to change the current based on the amount of surface area I am plating at a given time. I use 100% zinc plates as anodes, a small pond pump for agitation, and a aquarium heater to maintain ideal tank temp. I also use Caswell's chromate dip for additional corrosion resistance and to replicate the slightly gold finish that a lot of these old parts had originally.


Regards, John McGraw
Old 11-26-2015, 12:25 AM
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How long does your plating last?

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To DIY Zinc Plating - easier than I thought

Old 11-26-2015, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by John McGraw
I have used Caswell's chemicals and expendables for many years. I keep a 10 gallon zinc plating tank ready in the shop at all times. My tank has a sealed cover, so I can leave it for months on end with no use without evaporation. I use a variable DC power supply to change the current based on the amount of surface area I am plating at a given time. I use 100% zinc plates as anodes, a small pond pump for agitation, and a aquarium heater to maintain ideal tank temp. I also use Caswell's chromate dip for additional corrosion resistance and to replicate the slightly gold finish that a lot of these old parts had originally.


Regards, John McGraw
Along with annealing, a VERY important last step !!

But even that only prolongs the durability of the finish...
I can tell you that the professional zinc plating on my master cylinder cap and power brake booster (done by different vendors mind you) show deterioration in the two years since they were done. I can post before/after pics if it helps...

Of course I DRIVE my cars -- a lot.

Bolts are one of the 7 "simple machines", the "inclined plane" -- as noted they are working hard even when your car is sitting in the garage!

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 11-26-2015 at 08:42 AM.
Old 11-26-2015, 10:27 AM
  #39  
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Along with annealing, a VERY important last step !!
- Not necessary true.

Yes, annealing is important, but only when certain conditions are present. Let's not over blow this with gloom and doom sky is falling paranoia. I drove my car for a year with no hood latches...and I'm still alive.

The fact is...Steel with an ultimate tensile strength of less than 1000 MPa (~145,000 psi) or hardness of less than 30 HRC is not generally considered susceptible to hydrogen embrittlement.

So unless you are using high grade strength bolts, parts used in high stress environments, or critical to safety, it's really not an issue.

You can read all about it here...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement

Last edited by jusplainwacky; 11-26-2015 at 10:28 AM.
Old 11-26-2015, 10:31 AM
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If JohnZ says its an issue; then its an issue....and I did read all about it....long before this thread... Read post #28 again - I don't see dis-qualifiers mentioned.

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