59BlueSilver

The gap between the door post and windshield post is about 1/8" to 3/16" on the drivers side. There is no gap on the passenger side. The door seems to be adjusted right, so how do I adjust the passenger side to get the same size gap?

ptjsk

Hello Norm,

I just completed this within the last few days.

If you're close from bottom to top, then you may have to loosen the windshield and see if you can move the entire windshield assembly forward 1/8" or so. You may or may not have room for adjustment there, but the only way of finding out is to loosen the two post nuts, and a few of the windshield anchor bolts from under the dash. Not a lot of fun, especially if you have the entire dash assembly in place. Once they are loose, you may be able to get the adjustment you need.

If the bottom is good, and it's tight about mid-way up, and at the top, then you may want to add (additional) shims under the windshield post. The shims are actually very thin rubber manufactured specifically for this purpose.

And last, you can get some adjustment from the door "A" post itself. It will adjust a bit back if you loosen the two hex head bolts, and also the two screws that are down the post inside of the door.

Hope that helps,

Pat

ohiovet

Loosen all the bolts holding the door post in place and move it back using shims or washers on the front bolt.

I believe if you put a washer or shim between the post and the inside of the door front the post will move back, all other fasteners must be loose.

427390HP

I agree. You can move the door post to the rear and/or shim the door post to get a nice even gap.

Also, be SURE to loosen that little nut on the inboard side at the rear of the door post or the post won't move or, if it does, you can end up with some broken fiberglass.

Terry

mike coletta

Guys, you can't "shim" the front of the post. The lower part of the post (front roller assembly), moves or pivots on the lower adjustment bolt. The hex screw that goes into the front of the post, ONLY holds the post to this assembly. That's why there is a hole in the front of the door that is larger than the head of the bolt.

To move the post back.

1. Remove the inner and outer reveal and garnish moldings. Also remove the end cap.

2. Loosen, or better, remove the Phillips head screw at the top forward corner of the door. (the one circled in the picture in post #6)

3. Loosen the 10 X 24 nut on the inboard rear side of the post.

4. I've attached a photo of a 58 door in the next post (it's actually a 59 door that I'm making into a 58 door). The screw that holds the fore/aft adjustment of the post is circled in red.

You should then be able to slide the post fore/aft as necessary. You are limited by the slots in the top of the door at the lower rear of the posts.

You do not have to remove the forward screw, or the two lower Phillips screws (holes in the doors). The post swings fore and aft with the lower track mechanism attached.

Mike Coletta

mike coletta

Picture for post above.

ptjsk

Thanks for the clarification Mike.

I was unsure if I still needed to loosen the front hex head, and the two vertical screws or not. I did each time I adjusted the door "A" post, and obviously now know it didn't matter.

It's nice to know that in the future, I only have to loosen the hex head located on the face of the door.

Have a good Thanksgiving!

Pat

59BlueSilver

Thanks for all the good info, guys, but how do you tell if the door post needs to move or the windshield, or does it matter?

Frankie the Fink

If your hardtop/soft top fit well and latch properly at the header and you don't have some cobbled together aftermarket, crooked front clip, I would NOT be moving the windshield....

ohiovet

Definitely follow Frankies advice.
Don't mess with the windshield. The solution seems sort of simple, move the door post to the rear.
But it not simple since when you move one thing it most likely will affect something else.
Do a simple test; loosen all the bolts holding in the door post and see how much movement you have then take it from there.

ptjsk

These guys know a heck of a lot more than I do!

I just shared my experience of putting together the newly restored windshield assembly, and the newly restored door assembly.

I should have thought about trying to move the windshield if it's been in place for quite some time. I'm sure it's settled in and would be hell to break the seal and attempt to move it forward.

On my passenger side, I moved the door post back as far as I could, but be aware (as ohiovet pointed out), that moving the post back too far could have ripple effects. I had to "work" a bit placing the inside stainless in place.

Let us know if you were able to get it adjusted.

Pat

59BlueSilver

Here is a pic of the entire post. As you can see, zero gap at top and large gap at bottom. Don't know what to do about the large inboard/outboard gap between body & door. I have adjusted the door to even gap all around and it fairs in with the body pretty well all around also. May just have to leave it that way. But do you think by loosening the post bolts will take care of that large gap at bottom as well?

GTOguy

The whole door needs to come up. If you look at the apex of the curve at the post and the windshield, when the door comes up so that they can line up, your A pillar gap will fall into place. It's very evident looking at your latest photo.