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So I am thinking of replacing the carb on a 67 small block... The original Holley 3814 is constantly giving me problems. Had it rebuilt and just started to leak again. Any recommendations/suggestions? I searched and found this recommended http://www.specialtypartsdirect.com/...7ci-_p_24.html.
It is likely that your definition of "rebuilt" is "regasketed". The problem is likely with your metering block which is probably warped. They can be fixed but you need to send it out to a competent rebuilder. Finding a different carb is not likely going to solve your problem.
The Holley list 3810 and 3814 were ’67 only carburetors. The 3814 went on 300HP and 350HP engines with K19 (California emissions equipment) and the 3810 went on 300HP and 350HP engines without KI9. They were basically the same carburetor with some differences like the throttle body and shaft assembly (base plate) and primary main metering body. The 3814 was setup to run leaner and had # 63 primary jets vs. # 65 for the 3810. Visually, the 3814 has a large vacuum port at the right rear of the base plate for a connection to the K19 diverter valve and the PCV vacuum port at the rear instead of the right side.
The link in your first post shows a service replacement 3810. If you car has K19 and they don't offer the 3814, be aware of the differences. The service replacements aren't exactly like the original - most notably baseplate configuration, usually no date stamped on choke air horn, primary metering block number, and slotted vs. hex bowl screws.
I've had a service replacement 3810 on my car since 2006.
It is likely that your definition of "rebuilt" is "regasketed". The problem is likely with your metering block which is probably warped. They can be fixed but you need to send it out to a competent rebuilder. Finding a different carb is not likely going to solve your problem.
I really hope this isn't a stupid question but why wouldn't a brand new carb fix the problem?
No, it was removed prior to me acquiring the car. Another reason I wouldn't be against getting a new one...
If the smog equipment has been removed, you might consider getting the 3810. You wouldn't have to plug the diverter valve vacuum port but the PCV hose is different.
I really hope this isn't a stupid question but why wouldn't a brand new carb fix the problem?
No questions are stupid. Yes, a new carb will fix the problem, but you made it sound like the existing carb couldn't be effectively rebuilt. It can, you just need to know the cause of your problems.
I replaced the 3814 on my 67 smogged 327/350 with a 3367, which was the stock carb for 1966 300/350 Vettes. The advantages of the 3367 are externally adjustable needles and seats, and elimination of the eternally leaky pot metal plugs from the float bowls. Otherwise the 3314 and 3367 function the same. Possibly you could achieve these advantages by simply replacing the 3314 float bowls with 3367 float bowls using the 3367 jetting.
A service replacement 3814 should solve your problem! The replacements are new carburetors and will give you good service.
The 1966 non-A.I.R. 3367 and 1967 non-A.I.R. are available new. Unless someone has some RARE N.O.S. units, you won't find the 1966 A.I.R. 3605 or the 1967 A.I.R 3814 new. By the way, any vendor listing's mention of "Manual Transmission" regarding these carbs is irrelevant. For these two years, the 327/300 used the same carb regardless of which tranny it came with. The only differentiator was A.I.R. or not.
Since the smog equipment is gone, though, and it seems you have no intention of replacing that stuff, a 3810 or or 3367 (advantage of 3367 cited by another poster) would be just fine. Or you could get your 3814 fixed properly and while you're at it, put in the slightly larger primary jets that were used on the 3810. If that's not a good idea, I'm sure someone will tell us!
11-29-2015, 09:19 PM
67 Carb replacement
