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I have the front brakes from the Z, and so far I think those will work with brackets from Kore3. (good thing the CAMARO on the calipers is only a sticker ) May get upgraded at some point, but this will already be a TON better than the 4 wheel manual drums that are on there now.
I used a SRiii chassis. Ls6 and T56 and no tunnel mod required. Removable crossmember is required. The Sriii chassis helps provide some room. Trial fit required.
While your there look for numbers on frame ,good job Now your talking
honest question, why? I mean I can, but I already don't have a stock motor, and I don't think I really care if it is the stock frame, although I think it is.
honest question, why? I mean I can, but I already don't have a stock motor, and I don't think I really care if it is the stock me, although I think it is.
Because some day it will be worth more than the Resto mod upgrade.
Well that will take some time .Only kidding still for the stock outlook
would like to know if its readable since its easy to look at now.
I have a mini body stand set up for my restricted space requirements. I don’t have the ability to just wheel the body to another spot, so I need to be able to stack things. What I do have though is a 2 post lift.
I created a very simple, very small 2X4 frame to set the body on, that width wise the floor boards just fit inside. This makes it so that the stand does not cover access to the bottom of the body mount bolts (I’m not sure where other body dollies rest).
I wanted this, so that I could put eye bolts through the body mount holes to lift the body up, and set it down on the frame to test fit things, easily, over and over. (you can also see the bottom of one of these bolts in the top pic, the shinny bolt on the left)
That will be lifting from the top with straps to those bolts, but with a lift that is designed to lift from the bottom of the car, I only have so much height to lift, when lifting from the top. I also wanted to be able to lift with the arms, lifting the stand and the body all the way up, to get them up out of the way, to work on the frame.
I can also set the body and the stand on the frame rails with the frame under it, just to get inside the car, or get to the top.
If I have the frame pulled out, I can also put the stand directly on the floor.
This is my whole garage, I don’t have room to leave stuff spaced out.
I will add supports up to the front, once I get the core support back in there. Right now it is out, so there is nothing there to hold up.
I bought it and put it together with a friend and a tractor. It is a LOT of bolts.
I had the slab poured, and left a footer open to put the building in, then covered the bottom with more cement in the footer. If I had it to do over, I would have bought the pieces that bolt the building to a flat slab instead of sinking it into the footer, would have been cheaper and easier.
This one is 20X30.
You put the arches together on the ground loose, then stand them up and bolt them together, you need some sort of equipment to stand them up. The tricky part is the first 1-3, getting them to stay standing while you get the next arch. After 3, they are self-supporting and the rest go up easy.
If you have something (tractor, fork lift ect) that can lift the arch up (just tilting it straight up from laying flat, but you pretty much have to lift by the top), at least 2 people, and impact and some time, it is not that hard.
You still have time to reconsider the LS, just speaking from experience but engine swaps take about ten times longer than fixing what's broken. I am just checking that you know that everything that touches the powertrain has to be changed, not one single thing will bolt up wire up or fit up. Have you considered a nice 383 stroker or zz4? it will bolt in without cutting welding, fabricating, inventing, extra spending!
nah, the LS1 part and wiring I can handle, it is the body work and bird cage that scares me. Plenty have done it before me, and I already have most of the parts that almost make it a bolt in swap. That is the fun part
and I already have the motor and trany sitting there:
You will have clearance issues with a stock frame with a T56 6 speed tranny.
Been there.I installed a 2003 LS6 with a 2002 T56 behind it and had to
Change the crossmember.
Street and Performance in Arizona sells the bolt in crossmember.
You cut you crossmember right between the two exhaust holes.
You will also need to purchase a relocation shifter or do what I did and
Pull a mold off the original shifter console and move the hole.
Obviously you are aware that you will be running a Fuel Injected
Tank with pump inside and a radiator set up for the LS also.
Bolting the motor tranny into the frame is simple.
It's when you have the wrong oil pan and that needs changed.
I drilled and tapped a hole in water pump for steam line.
I also had clearance problems with my bibs coming out of my water pump and hitting my A Arms.Had to wald a block off plate on water pump and drill and tap new holes so bibs came out vertically.
Just be ready for one set back at a time with a stock frame.
I would run a 5 speed tremec TKO if it where me.
Have fun
Dave
You will have clearance issues with a stock frame with a T56 6 speed tranny.
Been there.I installed a 2003 LS6 with a 2002 T56 behind it and had to
Change the crossmember.
I saw a lot mentioned about street and performance, but when I called them up, they were not making headers anymore. I wanted to get engine mounts, trany mounts and headers all from the same place for this application, and the only one I found still selling it, was from the link above. Seemed kinda high for just a few mounts, but I was hoping it would fit correctly, I should see soon. They claim I don't need to change the crossmember, but they also claimed that I would not need to adjust the tunnel, but we will see about that (I suspect it will need to be raised)
Originally Posted by redsplitwindow
Street and Performance in Arizona sells the bolt in crossmember.
You cut you crossmember right between the two exhaust holes.
yeah, but they stopped selling headers, and I wanted to get that with the mounts, so there was no cross vendor finger pointing if things don't fit.
Originally Posted by redsplitwindow
You will also need to purchase a relocation shifter or do what I did and
Pull a mold off the original shifter console and move the hole.
Yep, still undecided on this one, it may depend on how much I need to modify the tunnel, if I have to mess with it much, and the current shifter location is not horrible, I may just cut a new hole.
Originally Posted by redsplitwindow
Obviously you are aware that you will be running a Fuel Injected
Tank with pump inside and a radiator set up for the LS also.
yep, already have the radiator, with inlet and feed on the passenger side, and the nipple for the steam line, have not gotten the tank yet.
Originally Posted by redsplitwindow
Bolting the motor tranny into the frame is simple.
It's when you have the wrong oil pan and that needs changed.
from what I read, I have the F-body pan already, and that is what several have said is the desired pan for this swap
Originally Posted by redsplitwindow
I drilled and tapped a hole in water pump for steam line.
I also had clearance problems with my bibs coming out of my water pump and hitting my A Arms.Had to wald a block off plate on water pump and drill and tap new holes so bibs came out vertically.
yep aware of this also (I have been reading as much as I could find about this conversion), so far I have seen 2 basic solutions. Do something to block off the side and feed from the top, like you did, or mount 45 to 90 degree fittings on the sides (after removing the bibs). I am also using the ride tech suspension, so I want to test fit that, and see where those parts land with the water pump. Might be better, might be worse.
Originally Posted by redsplitwindow
Just be ready for one set back at a time with a stock frame.
I would run a 5 speed tremec TKO if it where me.
Have fun
Dave
I love the 6 speed! That was one of the things I wanted! I could not resist when I got a whole car to donate its soul.
Do you happen to have any pics? or references you used? or care to share any more info? I'm about to start test fitting some major components soon (only messing with this in my spare time)
12-17-2015, 08:42 PM
) May get upgraded at some point, but this will already be a TON better than the 4 wheel manual drums that are on there now.
