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Here is my brothers 63 coupe. To help your rear live here are some upgrades without going to a toms 12 bolt. We did this to my 67 and nephews 75 as well as my brothers 63. Install a new eton posi. Richmond ring gear and pinion. Axles and spindles from international axle. Ask for Tom 763 428-5020 They are hardened. Install hd solid u joints all around. Add the steel cap to the left side of the posi. Add the spacer under the strut rod bracket. A set of drag radials will get you dead hooked.
Hey uncle Vinny how you guys doing? Hope To see you all next season. Cars look great
Hey Ron how are you doing? Yes we will be making a few races this season. Hope to see all you guys there. Missed all the fun last season. I'm still trying to get my 66 consistent with the stick and small 28x9 tire.
Thanks to Donny Brass and this forum I got the rear of my 63 pretty well setup.
I installed all solid u joints from the transmission back and rebuilt both my rear wheel bearings. My car had aftermarket stub axles but they were setup way too loose.
My front diff support bracket was mangled so I beefed it up and reset the pinion angle.
While I was there I installed a poly front mount with an oversize bolt and machined some thick aluminum sombrero bushing covers with a big counterbore to positively smash the crossmember into the frame.
I think the biggest gain was the spacer under the diff with the C3 camber bracket and adjustable camber bars.
With under car exhaust I could only fit a .500 spacer but after a few burnouts I got the contact patch a LOT better.
With rock hard radials and 38 degree temp the car hooked surprisingly well with zero hop. Hopefully I can lighten the valving in my rear shocks and feed it some more bite without hop in the future.
I installed a wideband O2 gauge and im playing with carbs until the track opens.
Does anybody have a recommendation for a true radial tire that kinda works? 225-70...
I noticed while adjusting the camber that my tires just produce black dust...lol.
The basic BFG street radials can do OK. I ran some 1.70 '60's when I had a 427 in mine. A buddy has 255/60's on his '65 and routinely broke stuff out back..especially when on the track. He was making maybe 400 HP back then....he's got 525-550 now and spins a lot more....but it can hook with some judicious foot work.
500+ HP...3.36's/wide ratio/sway bar intact...stock rear spring.....
400 HP...same drivetrain...ordered Tom's outer stubs, and solid u-joints after this happened one too many times....
Thanks to Donny Brass and this forum I got the rear of my 63 pretty well setup.
I installed all solid u joints from the transmission back and rebuilt both my rear wheel bearings. My car had aftermarket stub axles but they were setup way too loose.
My front diff support bracket was mangled so I beefed it up and reset the pinion angle.
While I was there I installed a poly front mount with an oversize bolt and machined some thick aluminum sombrero bushing covers with a big counterbore to positively smash the crossmember into the frame.
I think the biggest gain was the spacer under the diff with the C3 camber bracket and adjustable camber bars.
With under car exhaust I could only fit a .500 spacer but after a few burnouts I got the contact patch a LOT better.
With rock hard radials and 38 degree temp the car hooked surprisingly well with zero hop. Hopefully I can lighten the valving in my rear shocks and feed it some more bite without hop in the future.
I installed a wideband O2 gauge and im playing with carbs until the track opens.
Thanks again for all the help,
Mike Bruns
Mike, I think you're on the right track with these fixes. The best improvement to cut your times is to use a pair of MT ET Street Radials
which hook very well. With the 235-60R-15 size, my 60 foot times reached a best of 1.58 sec using the stock suspension when I was pursuing the NCCC 2B drag record. Here are a few things to consider...
1. More weight in the back is good - in spite of the fact that a spare tire weighs about 60 lb, back to back runs showed that I was quicker by a tenth with the spare tire aboard. A full gas tank will have the same benefit. Also remember that a quick 60-foot time is better than losing a mph at the top end.
2. Rear end ratio - 4.11s were worth a tenth compared to my stock 3.70.
3. Technique is all important - the stock suspension is pro-squat unlike a 4-link, which tends to raise the back end as torque hits the wheels. The 4-link works best from a relaxed suspension, but a pro-squat needs to be torque loaded prior to launch. In this case, I foot-brake against the front wheel line-lock to transfer as much weight onto the rear wheels as possible, but one can't do too much of this since the weight transfer will ultimately cause the fronts to lose grip at about 2000-2500 rpm.
4. A stiff rear spring (330 lb/in) FG spring and camber adjustments helped, as did RAISING the rear ride height to improve weight transfer. Although I didn't do it, I could have gone to lighter front springs than the F40s. Also, it was required to run the front sway bar, but keep the pivots as loose as possible.
My race weight was 3211 lb with me aboard; the engine was a blue-printed corvette LT1 with unported 461X heads and a 30-30 equivalent (lift restricted) cam and open exhaust. Trans was a TH350 with a high stall converter. Best ET was 11.47 at 117.50, but the record was officially 11.34 due to the altitude correction used by NCCC.
Last edited by larrywalk; 01-26-2016 at 01:05 PM.
Reason: Added time slip
Cool stuff Larry! Certainly some drag radials will take care of business...I was thinking he was only allowed to run regular street radials..not drag radials. I know some classes are set that way.
Mike, I think you're on the right track with these fixes. The best improvement to cut your times is to use a pair of MT ET Street Radials
which hook very well. With the 235-60R-15 size, my 60 foot times reached a best of 1.58 sec using the stock suspension when I was pursuing the NCCC 2B drag record. Here are a few things to consider...
1. More weight in the back is good - in spite of the fact that a spare tire weighs about 60 lb, back to back runs showed that I was quicker by a tenth with the spare tire aboard. A full gas tank will have the same benefit. Also remember that a quick 60-foot time is better than losing a mph at the top end.
2. Rear end ratio - 4.11s were worth a tenth compared to my stock 3.70.
3. Technique is all important - the stock suspension is pro-squat unlike a 4-link, which tends to raise the back end as torque hits the wheels. The 4-link works best from a relaxed suspension, but a pro-squat needs to be torque loaded prior to launch. In this case, I foot-brake against the front wheel line-lock to transfer as much weight onto the rear wheels as possible, but one can't do too much of this since the weight transfer will ultimately cause the fronts to lose grip at about 2000-2500 rpm.
4. A stiff rear spring (330 lb/in) FG spring and camber adjustments helped, as did RAISING the rear ride height to improve weight transfer. Although I didn't do it, I could have gone to lighter front springs than the F40s. Also, it was required to run the front sway bar, but keep the pivots as loose as possible.
My race weight was 3211 lb with me aboard; the engine was a blue-printed corvette LT1 with unported 461X heads and a 30-30 equivalent (lift restricted) cam and open exhaust. Trans was a TH350 with a high stall converter. Best ET was 11.47 at 117.50, but the record was officially 11.34 due to the altitude correction used by NCCC.
cool! your car runs hard. Did it take some work to fit that much tire in the rear? If not,do you know the back spacing?
Im sticking with a true street radial tire for now. I'm hoping a 1.80 60 ft will stop the insanity on this project.
The racecar in my avatar has been ignored while a dump hours/dollars into my 63.
This thread is a lot more interesting than the "what markings were on the factory wheel weights" or "what color is correct for the inside of the radio" threads!!!!
cool! your car runs hard. Did it take some work to fit that much tire in the rear? If not,do you know the back spacing?
Im sticking with a true street radial tire for now. I'm hoping a 1.80 60 ft will stop the insanity on this project.
The racecar in my avatar has been ignored while a dump hours/dollars into my 63.
The 235-60-15s fit fine on a 7x15 rim with 4 1/4" to 4 3/8" back spacing. I had relocated the parking brake cable to atop the trailing arm years ago, and trimmed about 1/4" from the inner lip of the rear fender.
This thread is a lot more interesting than the "what markings were on the factory wheel weights" or "what color is correct for the inside of the radio" threads!!!!
Im trying to build a "numbers matching" car .
I want it to match the numbers Donny Brass put on the board
This thread is a lot more interesting than the "what markings were on the factory wheel weights" or "what color is correct for the inside of the radio" threads!!!!
Here is my brothers 63 coupe. To help your rear live here are some upgrades without going to a toms 12 bolt. We did this to my 67 and nephews 75 as well as my brothers 63. Install a new eton posi. Richmond ring gear and pinion. Axles and spindles from international axle. Ask for Tom 763 428-5020 They are hardened. Install hd solid u joints all around. Add the steel cap to the left side of the posi. Add the spacer under the strut rod bracket. A set of drag radials will get you dead hooked.
12-29-2015, 11:29 AM
