Muncie Swap in the '61
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Muncie Swap in the '61
I currently have a TIRED '65 muncie trans (3851325) in the '61. I have a fresh '63 muncie (3831704) that is ready to install. Will the current clutch, bell housing and shifter all work or be interchangeable or will these parts be different and need replacement? Thanks!
#2
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '12
STOP! Your 63 Muncie has a smaller input bearing retainer, and will not work with the bellhousing you have now. And the 63 bellhousing will not accept an 11 inch flywheel and clutch if that is what you have. There is a way to make it work, Kajun Jon, Kajun Enterprises (254) 694 6600 who sells Muncie stuff can help you if you want to leave everything else the same but use the 63 trans. I think he has truck input bearing retainers, - been too long and can't remember for certain. Also, is your 65 Muncie a coarse spline in(10) and 27out? if so, then your clutch and driveshaft yoke will be ok. If not, then you will have to make changes for the 26/32 input/output. Honestly, (and I own one) 63 transmissions have some one year only parts, like the front input bearing being smaller, and are not a particularly desirable transmission. Both it and the transmission you are replacing have a 7/8" counter shaft, and all other muncies have a 1" countershaft.
Last edited by vettsplit 63; 01-08-2016 at 03:09 PM.
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
STOP! Your 63 Muncie has a smaller input bearing retainer, and will not work with the bellhousing you have now. And the 63 bellhousing will not accept an 11 inch flywheel and clutch if that is what you have. There is a way to make it work, Kajun Jon, Kajun Enterprises (254) 694 6600 who sells Muncie stuff can help you if you want to leave everything else the same but use the 63 trans. I think he has truck input bearing retainers, - been too long and can't remember for certain. Also, is your 65 Muncie a coarse spline in(10) and 27out? if so, then your clutch and driveshaft yoke will be ok. If not, then you will have to make changes for the 26/32 input/output. Honestly, (and I own one) 63 transmissions have some one year only parts, like the front input bearing being smaller, and are not a particularly desirable transmission. Both it and the transmission you are replacing have a 7/8" counter shaft, and all other muncies have a 1" countershaft.
#4
So, if you put a 3741458 retainer on your 63 muncie and have the OEM 553 bell, I think you're good to go. BTW, I believe there is an alternate part number for that retainer but I can't find it at this moment.
AAALLLLL credit for this information is compliments of DZAuto (Tom Parsons).
Here is a link to one of the references to switching the bearing retainer. Look at post #8:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...fferences.html
If you search the archives, you will find several times where this bearing retainer switch has been mentioned.
Hope this helps you out.
Terry
#6
Drifting
What you have seems to be a Speed Shop over the counter Cast Iron cased ST-10. A very strong, rare, transmission. Stronger than a Muncie, That is debatable.
It was also available as Slick Shifted, But that is another story.
#7
I would be guessing the T-10 2.64 firstyou have in your 63 is really a Super T-10. As far as I know, early 63 corvettes had Alum cased T-10s like 62 vettes. All were 2.20 first gears. later 63s had Muncies, also 2.20 first gears. Only when the 1974 Super T-10s came out the 2.64 and other ratios were available. But those transmissions had 26/32 input and out put splines and alum cased. Pre 61 case iron T-10s had 10/16 splines.
What you have seems to be a Speed Shop over the counter Cast Iron cased ST-10. A very strong, rare, transmission. Stronger than a Muncie, That is debatable.
It was also available as Slick Shifted, But that is another story.
What you have seems to be a Speed Shop over the counter Cast Iron cased ST-10. A very strong, rare, transmission. Stronger than a Muncie, That is debatable.
It was also available as Slick Shifted, But that is another story.
It's been 20 years since I checked but it for sure had a 2.64 because I had to buy a second gear from kajun. The case appeared to be 1962 and it had the oddball coarse output spline iirc.
It's on the lift right now, anybody know where the date is stamped?
My car was drag raced and it's very possible the Muncie expired. I see signs of a pinion failure and the rear u joint.
If it's a valuable piece and not correct for my car I'd like to sell it as I have a 5spd to install.
#8
I would be guessing the T-10 2.64 first you have in your 63 is really a Super T-10. As far as I know, early 63 corvettes had Alum cased T-10s like 62 vettes. All were 2.20 first gears. later 63s had Muncies, also 2.20 first gears. Only when the 1974 Super T-10s came out the 2.64 and other ratios were available. But those transmissions had 26/32 input and out put splines and alum cased. Pre 61 case iron T-10s had 10/16 splines.
What you have seems to be a Speed Shop over the counter Cast Iron cased ST-10. A very strong, rare, transmission. Stronger than a Muncie, That is debatable.
It was also available as Slick Shifted, But that is another story.
What you have seems to be a Speed Shop over the counter Cast Iron cased ST-10. A very strong, rare, transmission. Stronger than a Muncie, That is debatable.
It was also available as Slick Shifted, But that is another story.
I just looked at a chart and 2.64 wasn't available. It has to be a 2.50 something.
I didn't care much back then but now im drag racing the car and my new t5 has a 2.95 low....that makes me happy because I ran damn good with the t10.
#9
Melting Slicks
As vetrod 62 said, they did make a Super T-10 with a 2.64 first gear (have one in my '61) but didn't come out until later. When you find the codes on your transmission you'll know the answers.
#10
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St. Jude Donor '12
I seem to remember that the Super T10s came in several different ratios ranging from2.43,2.64 and 2.88. I also recall they had a steel midplate. Or maybe that is something we added. I ran a 2.88 low for awhile, til I went to a 3.25 low Doug Nash 5 speed. With 14x32s and a 6.50 gear in the back, it was a whole lot of fun I tore up a lot of stuff launching my little 287 inch motor at 9500. It was a rocket ship out of the hole, though
#11
t10
I seem to remember that the Super T10s came in several different ratios ranging from2.43,2.64 and 2.88. I also recall they had a steel midplate. Or maybe that is something we added. I ran a 2.88 low for awhile, til I went to a 3.25 low Doug Nash 5 speed. With 14x32s and a 6.50 gear in the back, it was a whole lot of fun I tore up a lot of stuff launching my little 287 inch motor at 9500. It was a rocket ship out of the hole, though
I got my 63 on the lift today and found my memory of this car from 15 years ago is useless.
I have a numbers matching t-10 with aluminum case. I'm confident its a 2.54 low gear.
When I first started hot rodding cars I got into the wrong crowd( a bunch of stick shift racers)
I broke tons of stuff but developed a work ethic and fortitude that has probably helped me a lot in life.
Anybody with a hard running stick car has paid their dues.
#12
Drifting
I got my 63 on the lift today and found my memory of this car from 15 years ago is useless.
I have a numbers matching t-10 with aluminum case. I'm confident its a 2.54 low gear.
When I first started hot rodding cars I got into the wrong crowd( a bunch of stick shift racers)
I broke tons of stuff but developed a work ethic and fortitude that has probably helped me a lot in life.
Anybody with a hard running stick car has paid their dues.
I have a numbers matching t-10 with aluminum case. I'm confident its a 2.54 low gear.
When I first started hot rodding cars I got into the wrong crowd( a bunch of stick shift racers)
I broke tons of stuff but developed a work ethic and fortitude that has probably helped me a lot in life.
Anybody with a hard running stick car has paid their dues.
#13
Great to know you have the numbers matching T-10 in your car. It will add value to your car. I broke every T-10 I raced very fast, like one run back in the mid 60s. Stripped all the teeth off 2nd or 3rd gears and the counter gear. Having your transmission last all these years, what is/was your secret ??
Our timelines are a lot different as I started racing in the late 80's. lol.
By then we knew that dumptruck clutches and sticky tires just destroys parts.
I still bogged my 600hp blown chevy and blew up a nice second design T10. After that I adapted a 833 chrysler 4 speed and it proved strong enough to break good 9 inch ford rear parts.
A viscous circle of carnage that brought the automatics to the forefront.
Even today, the clutch is the main problem. It needs to slip early but still lockup downtrack.The technology is available but not streetable.
I have renewed interest as I stepped my 327 up a bunch in power and I need to preserve the IRS and the T10.
If you think the old muncies and T-10s were questionable look at the gears in a T5. They look like something from a Honda gearbox.
Smart operators go fast will them all the time but they break instantly with a caveman in the drivers seat.
#14
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As hard on parts as they are, and as difficult as they can be while racing, watching/hearing a good 4 speed man run his car down the track is true music. Definitely separates the men from the boys. At the vintage drag races I attend at Bakersfield, there are quite a few of those guys, most in their 70's now, and they all shift like butter at WOT. The sound of a bygone era. Great stuff!
#15
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As hard on parts as they are, and as difficult as they can be while racing, watching/hearing a good 4 speed man run his car down the track is true music. Definitely separates the men from the boys. At the vintage drag races I attend at Bakersfield, there are quite a few of those guys, most in their 70's now, and they all shift like butter at WOT. The sound of a bygone era. Great stuff!
A true performance car just isn't right without a manual tranny.