MasterDave

I know on my 64 the shims are not slotted but on a 67 they are. Just loosening the trailing arm nut should allow me to take one out for a toe in adjustment right? Is there something else I should know?

Bluestripe67

So you put the slotted ones in. Correct? If not, the factory shims were not slotted. If that is the case, you know what you need too do. Don't let this get away into a body off. Dennis

MasterDave

Not my car, just needing to know if anything special required for one with the slotted shims.

Mike67nv

Take a look at the following thread, post #8 - good advice from JohnZ when using slotted shims.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...m-spacers.html

DansYellow66

Correct unless the pocket has been drilled for a long retainer cotter pin that runs through the shims. But if that is there it's readily apparent visually.

00fxd

Something I don't think everyone realizes. The shims comprise a shim 'pack'. When one is removed from one side of the trailing arm it must be inserted into the other side of the same trailing arm. The originals are not stainless and therefore prone to rusting and getting stuck. Start soaking them now.

MasterDave

This I know, thanks.

Powershift

The safest way is to unload the rear spring first. Otherwise the spring forces can twist the trailing arm and prevent the trailing arm pivot bolt from going back in the frame hole. This is not a 1/2 hour job. Take care and don't get in a hurry.

Larry

Bill32

I've never been thrilled with drilling the frame and end slotted shims.

MasterDave

I shouldn't have to remove the pivot bolt because these are 'slotted' shims in the 67 I am working on. I thought all I would have to do is just loosen the nut and the shims should slide out. I did my 64 a number of years ago and it was as you said above, however this is a 67. Thanks

MasterDave

Looks like someone cut the slot in those.

Avispa

Don't know why they don't seem to be available any more, but service shims were slotted and had notches on the end opposite the slot- the notch would catch on the lip of the pocket in the frame so no cotter pin was needed to hold the shims from rotating out of the pocket.

JohnZ

The end-slotted shims weren't used in production until the early 70's.

Powershift

Original 1967 cars had two hole shims. GM changed to slotted shims around 1970 or so.

However, a previous owner could have installed slotted shims in the 1967 car. If so, they can be done without unloading the spring and removing the pivot bolt. Just loosen the bolt and change the shims around. However, the full shim pack should still be a tight fit in the frame and require a small hammer to install the final shim. That is why you always want this last shim to be rather thick so you can tap it in without it deforming.

Larry

MasterDave

So you're saying that they have the same 'drilled' hole as in 63-64? Or do they look like the pic in post #8? Thanks

Bill32

Yep, they are the original type shims out of my 67 which some one cut, ("V" stamped on them).

I've been slotting shims this way for a long time even when I make my own.

And I use a very tight shim pack, don't depend on the bolt torque to hold them in.

I've never lost one.

JohnZ

The slotted one in the photo in post #9 is home-fabricated, as the poster noted; the photo below shows the early 70's - thru 1982 production slotted shim, which was retained by a VERY long cotter pin.

Bill32

John, home modified? as I believe it's an original shim, crudely cut, because of the "V" stamped on it.

But I have made my own 2 hole shims without stamping the "V" on them.

JohnZ

I like your slot design better than the slotted production part.

Bill32

Thanks, John. Being an engineer, I wish it was mine but I saw this done in the early '70's. And the one in the picture came out of my 67 which I bought in'73. So someone else was thinking about this back then.