sgorman3

OK...I have a strange question for you guys. I'm in the process of restoring a '54. Several months ago I had to lift the body off the frame in order to remove and rebuild the steering gear box. The body was placed on some 4"x 4" wood blocks that were laid lengthwise along the chassis rails while I worked on the gear box. I would say that it was left in this location for about 2 months. After reinstalling the steering column I lowered the body back down on the frame and, at the same time, replaced all the old body mount shims. I was very careful to replace all the old rubber and metal shims with the exact quantity of new ones.

My problem is that when I tighten up the passenger side anchor bolts the driver side does not sit flush on the shims on that side of the vehicle. There's about a 1/2" gap between the top of the shim stack and the bottom of the fiberglass body. Is it possible that the body somehow got warped while it was off the frame? Frankly, I don't know how as both sides were flush on the 4x4's. As far as fixing the problem should I simply add some shims to the passenger side until I can get the opposite side of the body to sit flush on the driver side shims?

Thanks

66jack

When you tightened the pass side...did you notice if anything was still hung up somewhere to make the other side 'lift' off of the drivers side shims....is it hung up on the transmission...

sgorman3

Thanks for the reply. I thought that could be it. I looked as best as I could but couldn't find anything that looked like it was hanging up anywhere.

Brucebodyman

This may sound a little simplistic but why not tighten bolts in a criss cross pattern. I don't do original cars I do restomods but I always use a side to side pattern.

66jack

...but as you do this, keep checking the door gaps...you dont want 'F' something up...

1955 copper

You can speculate about anything and why thing change but remember using shims & rubber, you start by tightening down the inside area first, then you ether rise or lower the front area or back end area to close and fit the rear door gaps .

csherman

Roy is right on
On the C1's - shim the body to the frame in the center section
there are 4 across the front - and front in the rear - in the pass area
Shim those to fit the body even on the frame
Then shim the front and the rear to open and or close your door gap at the top
Little at a time
It is time consuming
But when done the doors should shut like a 64 impala.....