TWO Questions
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
TWO Questions
Can someone post a picture or an Original Flasher unit for a 1963. Also have to clean the engine compartment. Inner fenders, underside of the hood, firewall ETC. What do you recommend to use to clean it??
Last edited by prestige6; 02-08-2016 at 08:29 PM.
#2
Melting Slicks<br><img src="/forums/images/ranks/3k-4k.gif" border="0">
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Can't help with the flasher and some additional info is needed before giving advice on cleaning. What is the status of your car? Survivor, original, NOM, etc? Also, how bad is the engine compartment?
#3
Team Owner
Two were used. One is a rectangular Signal Stat 143, there is one on eBay right now for $35 in the original package. The other is a round one and you should get the judging guide for applicability. Simple Green will do a nice job on the engine bay.
#4
Racer
+1 for Simple Green - cleans well & not aggressive (except on things that shouldn't get wet)
Last edited by bbxlr8; 02-08-2016 at 08:15 PM.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
There are some on the forum for 30.00 are they the correct ones??
#7
Team Owner
The rectangular green 143 (3 lamp) flasher is the correct one for my late May 63 250hp. Your car may call for the round one...I am not near my books right now - so best I can do...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 02-09-2016 at 06:28 AM.
#8
Melting Slicks
I'd start out with a compressor and blower tip on the engine bay. If you don't have that, use a 1" paint brush. That engine bay doesn't look that bad. After dusting it out, you'll better see where you need to put in more work with the Simple Green, etc.
Carter
Carter
#9
Team Owner
warrenmj asked the right questions in post #2. You have a car that IIRC is an award-winning, survivor, split-window fuelie you got for a ludicrous price. You've won the split window lottery.
If you care about the car's value you need to proceed VERY carefully. Getting a correct flasher is a good sign, in another thread you talked about putting a manual master cylinder on an added power brake setup....bad move IMO. Again, its YOUR car to do with as you please but it doesn't take long to get on that 'slippery slope' where you've turned this rare beast into just another SWC cruiser with over-restored and/or incorrect parts. Only time I'll bring this up but just felt it should be said...
If you care about the car's value you need to proceed VERY carefully. Getting a correct flasher is a good sign, in another thread you talked about putting a manual master cylinder on an added power brake setup....bad move IMO. Again, its YOUR car to do with as you please but it doesn't take long to get on that 'slippery slope' where you've turned this rare beast into just another SWC cruiser with over-restored and/or incorrect parts. Only time I'll bring this up but just felt it should be said...
#10
Frank,
I can honestly say now that you have NCRS disease.
You are spot on with your comments though.
I can honestly say now that you have NCRS disease.
You are spot on with your comments though.
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
warrenmj asked the right questions in post #2. You have a car that IIRC is an award-winning, survivor, split-window fuelie you got for a ludicrous price. You've won the split window lottery.
If you care about the car's value you need to proceed VERY carefully. Getting a correct flasher is a good sign, in another thread you talked about putting a manual master cylinder on an added power brake setup....bad move IMO. Again, its YOUR car to do with as you please but it doesn't take long to get on that 'slippery slope' where you've turned this rare beast into just another SWC cruiser with over-restored and/or incorrect parts. Only time I'll bring this up but just felt it should be said...
If you care about the car's value you need to proceed VERY carefully. Getting a correct flasher is a good sign, in another thread you talked about putting a manual master cylinder on an added power brake setup....bad move IMO. Again, its YOUR car to do with as you please but it doesn't take long to get on that 'slippery slope' where you've turned this rare beast into just another SWC cruiser with over-restored and/or incorrect parts. Only time I'll bring this up but just felt it should be said...
#13
Race Director
If it were me, I would remove the hood and put it on a flat surface to clean it. You will do a better job, no chance of hood slamming down and no overspray on surrounding areas of the car.
Rick
P.S. Simple Green
Rick
P.S. Simple Green
#14
Team Owner
Whew! If you hadn't gone for that deal with your friend I was gonna see if I could get in on it...that would be worth liquidating some stock for!
A soft, nylon bristled brush used after the Simple Green has sat for a few minutes followed by a water rinse should do the trick
A soft, nylon bristled brush used after the Simple Green has sat for a few minutes followed by a water rinse should do the trick
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Whew! If you hadn't gone for that deal with your friend I was gonna see if I could get in on it...that would be worth liquidating some stock for!
A soft, nylon bristled brush used after the Simple Green has sat for a few minutes followed by a water rinse should do the trick
A soft, nylon bristled brush used after the Simple Green has sat for a few minutes followed by a water rinse should do the trick
#16
Team Owner
I use the spray bottle of Simple Green and a garden hose with the nozzle adjusted to a mild spray for rinsing. As long as the spray is forceful enough to get the loosened grease and crud running freely - that's good enough.
I just had to do this in my engine compartment when a tower clamp split on the upper radiator hose and coolant spurted into the moving fan and made just an all out, first-rate mess of my engine compartment...
I just had to do this in my engine compartment when a tower clamp split on the upper radiator hose and coolant spurted into the moving fan and made just an all out, first-rate mess of my engine compartment...
#17
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I use the spray bottle of Simple Green and a garden hose with the nozzle adjusted to a mild spray for rinsing. As long as the spray is forceful enough to get the loosened grease and crud running freely - that's good enough.
I just had to do this in my engine compartment when a tower clamp split on the upper radiator hose and coolant spurted into the moving fan and made just an all out, first-rate mess of my engine compartment...
I just had to do this in my engine compartment when a tower clamp split on the upper radiator hose and coolant spurted into the moving fan and made just an all out, first-rate mess of my engine compartment...
#18
Team Owner
#19
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#20
Melting Slicks
If you look for a #143 Signal-stat for a 63, be sure it's a plain aluminum cover. Not the colored (anodized) later replacement.
Found only one correct #143 on ebay.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-NOS...tWgWsS&vxp=mtr
Others are either green or gold colored.
Found only one correct #143 on ebay.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-NOS...tWgWsS&vxp=mtr
Others are either green or gold colored.
Last edited by Critter1; 02-09-2016 at 07:18 PM.
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