59BlueSilver

My clutch needs to be replaced due to a leaking tranny, so I've been reading up on clutches here in this forum. I just want a stock clutch, no high performance. My engine is a '69 stock 350 out of a C10 pickup truck. My current pressure plate is a three finger.
Have some questions:

1. From reading the forum, I need a stock 10.4" clutch, but O'Reilly & Autozone only have 11 & 12" clutches. Do they just call a 10.4" an 11"? If not, where do I get a 10.4"?

2. Is PowerTorque a good brand? USA made?

3. RockAuto has AMS Automotive & Exedy brands. Any good?

4. Do I need a three finger or diaphragm style pressure plate?

5. If I get the entire stock PowerTorque 11" clutch kit, is everything included going to work in my engine?

Thanks in advance...

dharris45

NAPA sells a 10.4" (10 3/8") set up. It's in a NAPA box, but is really a LUK clutch kit with everything you need, pressure plate, clutch plate, throughout bearing and alignment tool.

That's what I used on my 1960 and 1966. Research LUK and you should see many good recommendations.

Don

Tampa Jerry

Your car came stock with a diaphragm type pressure plate. The three finger type are really designed for racing applications. Your left foot will thank you with a stock type plate. I would also consider balancing the assembly while everything is apart. Lastly, check the starter ring gear for any missing or worn teeth. Now is the time! Good luck with your install. Jerry

MikeM

Before you buy anything, you need to find out what size PP, what size flywheel and what bellhousing you are using.

The 153 tooth flywheel used either a 10 or a 10.4 inch clutch disc with a diaphragm clutch. Drilling for the pressure plate was the same for either.

The 168 tooth flywheel used either a 10 or 11 inch clutch disc. Also came either three finger for a '59 or diaphagm in later years.

gbvette62

Which bell housing do you have?

If the last three digits of the casting number are 621, you need the 11" clutch. If the last three numbers are 383 (or possibly 403), you have the smaller flywheel and will want the 10.4" clutch.

oldpainter

If you have torn apart, you might consider having the flywheel resurfaced and a new pilot shaft bushing.

DansYellow66

Before you buy a replacement clutch - read this.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...vel-range.html

hedgehead

LUK

MOXIE62

Don't ask what vendor has a soft clutch. You will get no replies.

GTOguy

X3 on LUK. Hi quality, excellent fit, light pedal, long lasting.

1snake

I've installed no less than a dozen LUK clutches and pretty much agree EXCEPT - be sure sure get your flywheel and new clutch set-up balanced. I always have them done and usually they are very good but the last LUK pressure plate I bought was severely out of balance. I don't know if it missed the balancing step before it was shipped but it would have required removal if I had not gotten it checked.

59BlueSilver

How do I do that? Do they balance it on the car as an assembly? Who does this?

1snake

It's done off the car. Usually the place that resurfaces your flywheel can do it. If not, any decent engine builder/machine shop can.

427390HP

Norm,

Last July I converted my '60 back to an original 4 speed. I literally read hundreds of forum posts on clutches, flywheels, etc. to make sure I got all of the right parts so I didn't have to re-do anything.

I eventually ended up putting a LUK 04-084 clutch in it . I got it from NAPA. Their part number for this kit is 1104084. It is a 10.5" clutch. I like it, works fine, and has a soft pedal. My brother does all my testing and tuning and he has tested it (which means drive it like you stole it and troopers are on your tail!) several times. So far so good.

Just a few things FYI that you may or may not already know or have read:

1. If you end up with a diaphragm clutch, be especially aware of the type of diaphragm and the throwout bearing that comes with it. I initially put a RAM clutch in and the clutch wouldn't fully disengage. This was because the Corvettes differ from the passenger car in the type of diaphragm clutch that will work.

Important: Per John Z: "... all Corvettes use the "short" (1-1/4") throwout bearing with bent-finger diaphragm clutches ... The long one ... was used in passenger cars and trucks with "flat-finger" diaphragm clutches.

2. Naturally you will replace your pilot bushing. Be sure that you get a good oilite bushing and not a cheap over the counter that is magnetic.

3. If you go with a LUK clutch, the kit I got had the cheap plastic throwout bearing. You will want to get a good all metal throwout bearing.

There's a lot more info I gathered, but with what you have already read and the info you get from this thread, you should be able to make a good decision and have everything go well on the install.

Terry

1snake

The LUK throw out bearing has a composite, not plastic, sleeve where the clutch fork rides and where the bearing slides on the trans front bearing retainer. The rest of the bearing that actually does the work is metal just like the old days. I think it's a better/quieter design and have never had any problems with any of them.

427390HP

OK, it has a composite plastic sleeve. Composites comprise more than just plastics. I just wanted the OP to be aware that the bearing in the LUK kit was not all metal. Some of us still want an all metal bearing.

Terry

mudbone64

I'm going to be needing to get a clutch for my 400ish horsepower 327 and I'm wondering if the stock replacement LUK clutch can stand up to this kind of power or should I move on to something a little more performance oriented? I don't think my driving habits are all that aggressive.

1snake

Go with a stock replacement like LUK but definitely have it balanced. I've used them with more HP without issues.

59BlueSilver

I agree. The composite might be fine but would prefer metal.

59BlueSilver

Because my engine came out of a pickup, that part number may not work. I need to crawl under there & get that casting # off the bell housing and find out what clutch I have.