59BlueSilver

Taking stock of my 59 the other day, it seems I've touched about everything on it that needs fixing or replacing in the last three years. Thinking about the copper oil pressure line. Been there longer than I have owned the car, looks old, subject to vibration, and would make a hell of a mess if ruptured. Worse in the cabin after installing new interior.

My question is, how often do they break, expected life span? Should I replace it now? How about the plastic lines?

DansYellow66

I believe the consensus is that the copper lines are more durable than the plastic lines. Usually the line is run with enough slack/loops in it such that vibration should not be much of an issue. The most likely fatigue points would be at the engine and gage connection. But over the years they probably get bent and moved around and abused some.

Frankie the Fink

That line will be pumping oil and not leaking long after you and I are gone unless you damage it...

rrsperry

There really is a good reason that EVERY racing organization requires that fluid lines in the cockpit be steel braded.


I don't care how original that line is, it's getting replaced, and saved. It is simply not safe.

Frankie the Fink

These aren't the plastic lines like some cheap-aZZ aftermarket oil pressure gauges.

I don't think I've heard of a single copper oil line in nearly 10 years on here and working on cars for 50 years where somebody didn't booger it up and cause self induced damage... Left alone, they're fine.

59BlueSilver

Good to hear! Thanks Frankie

1snake

The original lines are copper coated steel. A pure copper line will work harden and crack over time. That's why the are never used as fuel lines either.

GTOguy

The only copper clad lines I have seen fail are when they were gorilla-damaged. Not normal wear and tear. My '37 Imperial had them, and they were just fine. Worked on many, many older cars, and these only 'wear out' when mis-handled. Good point on aftermarket pure copper lines. Copper and brass both work harden pretty easily, and are a disaster as fuel or brake lines!

1snake

Copper clad lines are fine and basically last forever. I didn't want the OP to be confused thinking that copper lines are okay. I'm sure FFS knew this.

Powershift

Best to check with a magnet to make sure of one versus the other. The OEM copper over steel is the way to go. OP needs to just "do it" if line is really pure copper.

FWIW.

Larry

karkrafter

As previously stated copper will work harden over time, If you can cut back the line on both ends oh say 1/2 inch and inch you would be replacing the weakest points...

DansYellow66

Opps - your right - they are steel. I repeated the term "copper" the original poster used without thinking about it. Steel, steel - not copper.

John McGraw

I have never seen an original C1 oil line that was copper clad. All of the repro's that are sold are copper coated steel. The original C1 oil line was a tin-coated steel line. I do not know how the repro market got to making them in copper clad, but maybe it was because C2 lines were copper clad, I don't know. In any case, the repro lines are not the same diameter as the originals, and need to use the repro fittings as well. The copper clad line on C1 cars has become so common, that even the NCRS accepts them as "original appearing". I have taken a hit several times on tin-coated lines at judging, and have always had to protest the point deduction. It was always overturned. It got to where I carried a couple of original oil lines from a C1, just so that people who had never seen one, could see what it looks like up close. The original is much smaller in diameter than all the reproductions.

As was stated earlier, a solid copper line is a bad choice for an oil line, as they will work harden and crack.


Regards, John McGraw

Frankie the Fink

As did I... Its steel, as you will find out when you try to bend one to fit through the firewall and elsewhere

Here is the tag on my repro Zip 63 line...

59BlueSilver

Just checked my line with a magnet. It's copper. Guess I'll be replacing it. Is this a double flare line both ends? Better to buy repro?

vettepoor

I'm pretty sure both ends are compression fittings, not flared. My 65 sprung a leak on a road trip many years back. Smelled oil burning, opened hood to find line squirting like an artery! It had developed leak close to fitting at block, and I was able to trim end off with pipe cutter, re-insert fitting and drive on for many years after.

59BlueSilver

The price isn't bad at the repro houses and includes the fittings. Worried about length. I have a 350. Is the location on the block same as a 283?

1snake

GM used a tapered brass compression fitting that seals around the line as it's tightened. Get a repo. kit that comes with the correct fittings.

Pilot Dan

After install, it's a good idea to re check the tightness of the nut on the back of the gauge after doing some driving and visually inspect for any oil weeping. Sometimes, they can weep oil and need a little additional tweak to stop that. DON"T OVERTIGHTEN !!

59BlueSilver

Worried about length. I have a 350. Is the location on the block same as a 283?