67 Clutch ZBar Grease Question
03-20-2016, 08:29 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
67 Clutch ZBar Grease Question
When adding grease to the zerk in the middle of the clutch linkage ZBar, are you supposed to load up the entire inside of the ZBar with grease, so that grease hits the 2 ends where the pivots are?
I ask because this seems like it would be a great amount of grease required only to lube the 2 ends which could cause a leaky mess later when so close to the exhaust area and the grease gets hot.
I have in the past only lubed the 2 end pivots before reinstallation and have never "filled" the entire Zbar with grease. Have not had any issues in decades.
I was just curious as to how others recommend doing this and what type of grease do you recommend? I have used just the regular type of grease that is used to lube ball joints etc.
Thanks All
I ask because this seems like it would be a great amount of grease required only to lube the 2 ends which could cause a leaky mess later when so close to the exhaust area and the grease gets hot.
I have in the past only lubed the 2 end pivots before reinstallation and have never "filled" the entire Zbar with grease. Have not had any issues in decades.
I was just curious as to how others recommend doing this and what type of grease do you recommend? I have used just the regular type of grease that is used to lube ball joints etc.
Thanks All
Last edited by babbah; 03-20-2016 at 08:43 PM.
03-20-2016, 08:57 PM
#2
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When adding grease to the zerk in the middle of the clutch linkage ZBar, are you supposed to load up the entire inside of the ZBar with grease, so that grease hits the 2 ends where the pivots are?
I ask because this seems like it would be a great amount of grease required only to lube the 2 ends which could cause a leaky mess later when so close to the exhaust area and the grease gets hot.
I have in the past only lubed the 2 end pivots before reinstallation and have never "filled" the entire Zbar with grease. Have not had any issues in decades.
I was just curious as to how others recommend doing this and what type of grease do you recommend? I have used just the regular type of grease that is used to lube ball joints etc.
Thanks All
I ask because this seems like it would be a great amount of grease required only to lube the 2 ends which could cause a leaky mess later when so close to the exhaust area and the grease gets hot.
I have in the past only lubed the 2 end pivots before reinstallation and have never "filled" the entire Zbar with grease. Have not had any issues in decades.
I was just curious as to how others recommend doing this and what type of grease do you recommend? I have used just the regular type of grease that is used to lube ball joints etc.
Thanks All
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babbah (03-20-2016)
03-20-2016, 09:50 PM
#3
Race Director
I had never heard of it before. I have simply filled the entire Z-bar with grease over the last 22 years on my 1967 car and never had any concerns or issues. Maybe I am being wasteful.
Larry
Last edited by Powershift; 03-20-2016 at 09:51 PM.
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babbah (03-20-2016)
03-21-2016, 07:55 AM
#4
Team Owner
What's a tube of grease cost ? The dowel works but I wouldn't take things apart to install one - just fill that tube up...and you're good...
...
03-22-2016, 02:43 PM
#11
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Some I have seen have felt packing installed into the center of the tube....two thick felt washers, actually. This keeps the grease where it needs to be, at either end of the tube. My GTO's are that way.
03-22-2016, 05:06 PM
#12
Race Director
I have never understood the concept of putting in a dowel or packing in the center of the tube, when that is near the location of the zerk fitting. On my '67 the fitting is maybe 3/8 of the way towards the center from the inboard end of the tube
Wouldn't the new material in the tube keep the grease from getting to both ends?
I just fill it up. No problems for the 45 years I've owned the car..............
Wouldn't the new material in the tube keep the grease from getting to both ends?
I just fill it up. No problems for the 45 years I've owned the car..............
03-23-2016, 06:19 PM
#13
Team Owner
Your understanding is incomplete - big surprise.
The theory is that the wooden dowel would have a groove longitudinally along its length and that groove would be under the zerk fitting and the total length of the dowel would be somewhat shorter than the tube on the bellcrank leaving a hollow space at each end. The grease would flow down the groove, fill the hollow spaces, lubricate the ball studs and conserve the amount of grease required.
Several old posts are available about this -- JohnZ has used this technique:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1577824615
You prob won't buy this explanation since I wrote it so I invite you to do your own research.
However, I agree - prob not worth the trouble...
The theory is that the wooden dowel would have a groove longitudinally along its length and that groove would be under the zerk fitting and the total length of the dowel would be somewhat shorter than the tube on the bellcrank leaving a hollow space at each end. The grease would flow down the groove, fill the hollow spaces, lubricate the ball studs and conserve the amount of grease required.
Several old posts are available about this -- JohnZ has used this technique:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1577824615
You prob won't buy this explanation since I wrote it so I invite you to do your own research.
However, I agree - prob not worth the trouble...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 03-23-2016 at 06:36 PM.
03-23-2016, 07:12 PM
#14
Race Director
Your understanding is incomplete - big surprise.
The theory is that the wooden dowel would have a groove longitudinally along its length and that groove would be under the zerk fitting and the total length of the dowel would be somewhat shorter than the tube on the bellcrank leaving a hollow space at each end. The grease would flow down the groove, fill the hollow spaces, lubricate the ball studs and conserve the amount of grease required.
Several old posts are available about this -- JohnZ has used this technique:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1577824615
You prob won't buy this explanation since I wrote it so I invite you to do your own research.
However, I agree - prob not worth the trouble...
The theory is that the wooden dowel would have a groove longitudinally along its length and that groove would be under the zerk fitting and the total length of the dowel would be somewhat shorter than the tube on the bellcrank leaving a hollow space at each end. The grease would flow down the groove, fill the hollow spaces, lubricate the ball studs and conserve the amount of grease required.
Several old posts are available about this -- JohnZ has used this technique:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1577824615
You prob won't buy this explanation since I wrote it so I invite you to do your own research.
However, I agree - prob not worth the trouble...
Gotta say 'tho, that it's tough to have a complete understanding without complete information. I was commenting on what was in this thread. No mention of a grooved dowel here.
Your attempt at edification still doesn't explain what keeps the dowel from moving to one end of the tube or the other, nor from the groove rotating away from the Zerk fitting - let alone the concept of plugging the middle of the tube with felt washers.
Perhaps some complete information is still missing? Big surprise.....
I do agree it's not worth the trouble in my case, after 45 years of success the regular way........... "If it ain't broke don't fix it"
03-23-2016, 07:36 PM
#15
I don't get this. Why would you pound a grooved dowel into the Zbar? To conserve grease?
If you want to conserve grease simply slide in a dowel that is slightly smaller than the ID of the Zbar. The result would be no obstruction from the zerk to the end pivots and would greatly decrease the amount of grease needed.
Seems like a solution to a non problem. Maybe I just don't understand.
CUL Jim
If you want to conserve grease simply slide in a dowel that is slightly smaller than the ID of the Zbar. The result would be no obstruction from the zerk to the end pivots and would greatly decrease the amount of grease needed.
Seems like a solution to a non problem. Maybe I just don't understand.
CUL Jim
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davekp78 (03-24-2016)
03-23-2016, 07:40 PM
#16
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I looked at my '65 GTO: it has a felt washer at either end of the tube, not in the middle, as I had previously stated. To seal in grease and keep dirt out. One between the frame mount bracket and Z-bar bolt, and what's left of one on the engine pivot ball. The grease fitting is close to the center of the tube, which is filled with grease. It's been awhile....I knew it had felt washers, just got the location wrong!
03-23-2016, 09:49 PM
#17
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Seems like an awful lot of discussion to save pennies worth of grease.
That said, I did take a piece of aluminum bar stock, turn a groove relief near the zerk location, and mill two flats the full length of the bar to accomplish the same thing. Solving non-problems is what a mechanical engineer does with a machine shop at his disposal and too much free time.
That said, I did take a piece of aluminum bar stock, turn a groove relief near the zerk location, and mill two flats the full length of the bar to accomplish the same thing. Solving non-problems is what a mechanical engineer does with a machine shop at his disposal and too much free time.
03-23-2016, 11:15 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
I have enough saved that I could pack 4 sets of wheel bearings...
03-23-2016, 11:37 PM
#19
It appears that your GTO used the same system as the Corvette ball stud. The engine mounted ball stud just used a "square" o-ring, no felt seal. First picture is GTO etc., second picture is Corvette.
.
03-24-2016, 01:05 PM
#20
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Yes, that's it. Assumed it was felt, and may well be as it appears original to the car.What's left is hanging on the stud between the block and the tube end...haven't had the Z bar out of the car since 1984.