martymccleary

I'm thinking about putting one of the new Holley Sniper EFI's on my 63 when they come available.
Couple of things I have noticed in the requirements are 1. must have a return fuel line to the tank and 2. it shows a wire to the tach.

Do anyone have any experience with changing over to the EFI ?
Adding the return line should not be a big issue, but since the tach is a mechanical drive, that may be another issue.

Second question, does anyone know of a good shop in Alabama that can work on a convertible frame top ? I've got some issues that I think are worn out bushings, rivets, etc.

Thanks !!

Frankie the Fink

There is a thread on here about someone else switching to an EFI that had a host of issues...it was also an early version of a product sold at a deep discount.

Personally, I'd let that new Holly system 'cook' for a year and let the issues get wrung out before I jumped in the swamp.

65-StingRay

I agree with Frankie on the wait to see if it turns as good as it should be.

By the way I'm the fellow he is referring to with the FiTech problems.

Just to clarify the problem is not with the throttle body but the FCC which is a fuel sump with an efi pump in it that was the source of my displeasure. FiTech has done right by me - they are offering me a refund for my FCC - which is a great thing.

Other than that wait to see how things turn out for their discounted unit.
I'm happy with my FiTech throttle body.

Just got called for lunch at the firehall gotta go.

65-StingRay

JMG2

FWIW, I did a holley terminator EFI swap on circa 1988 chevy motor (motor is currently in a 1988 jeep cherokee). It is probably one of the best upgrades I did--- fantastic throttle response, cold start is excellent, and no hesitation off the line. I went with all stainless feed/return line, and it looks fantastic.

Obviously I can't speak to 'vette specific problems, but I highly recommend it. I looked at the sniper when I did this, but it wasn't out yet, and read they were having some issues with the computer mounted in the unit itself-- the terminator is also a bit more svelt under the air cleaner, at first glance it's pretty much a dead ringer for a carb (though they are coming out with a "classic carb" finish for the sniper)

also, for the terminator at least , you definitely will need a tach input. The unit can control an electronic ignition, or (as was my case-- I'm using a small cap mechanical distributer), even if it can't be controlled, it needs to know the rpm to properly tune/control fuel delivery. I'd call holley -- they were amazingly helpful during pre-sales for me, and basically helped me map out my entire swap before I bought a single part.

martymccleary

Great info.
What type of problems did you have with the FCC ?
I know with the Sniper you have to run a fuel return line and the 63 doesn't have one. I liked the idea of the FCC not requiring a return to the tank.

Thanks again !!

JLMICCA

I realize this is an old thread but I've been toying around with this or the FiTech unit for my '63 with stock hood. It seems the Holly unit is taller. I have an aftermarket aluminum intake so will have to be careful with adding any additional carb height. Just wanted to point this out to you if you are considering the swap. The height listed for the Sniper is 3.28" while that for the FiTEch unit is 3.25". Odd because photos side by side seemed like a bigger difference. Then there is finding a drop base that will fit around the unit while allowing the drop needed to close the hood. Just thought I'd point this out. If you or anyone has done this in the confines of a small block hood, I'd love to hear if there were any clearance issues.

cbernhardt

I started looking for an EFI upgrade for the motor in my '59 almost a year ago. I was going to go with the Sniper, but Holley kept delaying the release. You need to read the posts on the Sniper section of the Holley forum: https://forums.holley.com/
From what I have read it looks like the Sniper system is now available, but the laptop software in not quite ready.

Charles

rfn026

This all comes down to "What problem are you trying to solve?"

These cars ran great when new. They will also run great today.

In 5 years Holley will move on to another system and you'll own an orphan that now one knows anything about.


These work just fine.

Richard Newton
C1 Shocks

ganshert

fuel economy
performance
efficiency
rejetting for altitude
emmissions
less time tuning more time driving

I put a Holley TBI kit on my 74 in 94, best modification I ever did to it.

Objectively fuel injection is better in every way, there is no argument anyone can make otherwise. Subjectively, arguments can be made.

Having said that... retrofit aftermarket fuel injection isn't always better but can be.

The OP didnt ask for pros and cons of FI, he asked for experience with return lines and tach inputs to FI.

OP, when I did my 74, which is also mechanical tach, I used the negative coil as the tach input to the FI controller. Your actual tach doesn't need to be electronic, the controller just needs that RPM input

FLYNAVY30

Hopefully I can help, but keep in mind, my experience was on an LS based motor which uses a crank position sensor and cam position sensor.

I built a 6.0L LS engine for my '72 Suburban. Initially I was running a Holley 650 double pumper with MSD 6010 ignition box and a FAST EZ TCU transmission controller for the 4L65E transmission. ***DISCLAIMER: My carb tuning abilities are limited***

I did get the combo up and running, but even after a dyno tune with a well respected shop, it never quite ran properly....especially with the drastic temp changes from season to season in VA. Additionally, cold start was ALWAYS a problem in the winter. My biggest complaint was that the engine and transmission never seemed to be in sync. Up shifts and down shifts occurred at inappropriate intervals. I think the major issue was trying to get the carb, ignition box, and trans controller all in sync with each other, which never happened.

Enter the Holley Terminator TBI EFI. I did a lot of research and found this system to be the most complete and the closest thing to the advertised "self tuning". It took a couple of weekends to install the return fuel line, upgrade the pump to and EFI unit, and run the wiring. It probably could have been completed faster, but Im **** retentive about neat and clean wire/line routing. I also had to fabricate a bracket to fit in the glove box to hold the ECU.

The ECU will require an RPM input. Fortunately on the LS motor, this is provided via the crank shaft sensor. Obviously that will be different on an SBC with a distributor. My heart burn was that while there was a transmission speed input to the ECU, there was no output for the speedometer. I found this annoying because I can't think of anyone who doesn't run a speedometer. With a little poking around on the Holley forum (which is quite helpful), I was able to find that there are 3 configurable outputs from the ECU....I simply had to download the software, open the program, and literally drag and drop "speedo output" to the correct wire and then attach that wire the the speedometer.

After I finally had everything wired up properly, the engine fired right up. I did find there was some settings that needed to be adjusted via the hand held programmer that weren't thoroughly explained in the instruction manual in full detail....but they were explained well enough that I knew what to search for on the Holley forums and quickly sorted out how to adjust the IAC, or Inlet Air Control valve (think of it as a choke) at idle, part throttle, and WOT. After getting that all sorted, all there is left to do is drive the car. I made a point to drive in stop and go traffic, slow traffic, freeway cruising, and full throttle on-ramp blasts so that the ECU would learn across the entire spectrum. It really is amazing how much better the car gets the more you drive. You can even watch on the hand held as the ECU learns and refines the air/fuel ratio. (Thats another thing, you need to have a bung welded into your exhaust for an O2 sensor that is included in the kit...the bung is included as well).

Having had the system installed for 8 months now, and having completed multiple road trips, I can honestly say that it was well worth the expense and effort (at least in my case). The trouble free start ups, increased fuel economy, and crisp throttle response are exactly what I was looking for. Everyone has their own opinions, but I honestly feel that the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" original carb guys either don't drive their car very often, or just don't know any different and don't realize how good a motor can be on fuel injection.

Again, I know this isn't quite an apples to apples comparison because Im talking about an LS based motor vs. the SBC that you would be dealing with, but the kit is generally the same. Another point to consider, Holley just released the same Terminator kit in what looks almost identical to a classic carb in the gold finish, if you're the type thats worried about the under hood look.

FLYNAVY30

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/550-445

leakybomb

My mod was not really for the faint of heart as I did not just bolt it on with an external fuel pump-this was a work in progress and is well worth it! This was done in conjunction with an
electric fan crown vic NIB TYC 620950 ebay-$79.00
New fuel tank-no liner so I could cut it and weld myself-ebay $198.00.
Fuel pump from a 6.0 silverado Delphi fg0271 NIB ebay $100
96A Delco alternator, NIB ebay 48.00
Holley Sniper 999.00-summit (thru ebay)
WIX 33737 fuel filter/regulator (ebay 41.72)
New 4 ga wire to starter, straight clamp to a 6 GA, 100A slow blow breaker, then to junction (EFI battery constant, relay box, both w/ fuse links) then to alternator.
bought a 5 relay relay box-ign (pink wire under dash)runs a relay that is wired to starter and powers up the EFI-I noticed that running the ign wire as suggested direct to pink under dash caused the screen to flicker leading me to believe that it was dropping the voltage during cranking-it now does not flicker as it too, kind of goes direct to battery. EFI then drives the other relays that power the fuel pump and the fan (2 speed, each on own relay)
I re-used the stock fuel line (it is a nice clean car so the line was great)- some guys said that they used the 5/16 (or whatever that little peashooter line is) return line but I didnt want too-seemed a bit restrictive. I used a fuel filter/regulator, looped it back to the port on the fuel pump and just plugged the regulator on the EFI. I get 48 PSI very consistently.
At first, I used the saddle for the O2 but it blew the gasket out so I took a grinder to the saddle and just welded it on.
Drive-ability is unreal, starts immediately, throttle response is immediate and I needed to re-build and re-jet the carb anyway-a $500 endeavor that I am too old to get right.
I have a FAST EFI dual sync dizzy that I am going to add on as soon as I get the time but that will be another project and for now the car runs great!